Last post on Nov 05, 2013 at 7:31 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet, GMC Jimmy, SUV
#355 of 609 Interior Lights
Jan 02, 2009 (6:03 pm)
I own a 1995 Chevy Blazer and since the weather has gotten very cold here, the interior lights will not shut off automatically as they should unless the vehicle is really warm. Is there a sensor inside the vehicle or in the electrical system that may have been contaminated by some moisture? Also, even though the indicator light on the button lights up, my "Hi 4 wheel drive' will not engage. Any ideas??
#356 of 609 banging my head against the wall
Jan 04, 2009 (11:52 am)
My issue is this. Last sunday, my blazer broke down in the middle of an intersection. I was able to get the truck out of the way so I could figure out what the issue was. At first, I thought it was the alternator since the one I had was an original. But, that didn't work. Then, I thought it was my battery. No dice. So, i had to have it towed back to my house. While I was watching my truck go on the flatbed, one of the drivers told me that either something got wet underneath, or there was a short somewhere. So, I waited until Monday to see if "drying out" would work. Nope. Come to find out, the aluminum part of the starter broke in two. Great!! So, I bought a new one, and put it in on Tuesday. I charged the battery (cause it went dead in the process between Sunday and Tuesday), and everything worked!! Yes!! So, I drove it for a little bit, and parked it for the night. I didn't drive the truck for two days, but when I started it up on Friday, everything was in working order. I dropped my kids off, and proceeded to go out for a while. I hit a little bit of snow (by the way, I live in Connecticut), but nothing really happened. That is, until I got to my wife's job, which was about 10 miles away. When I tried to turn into her parking area, it stalled. Hmm. I turned it off and started it up again. Hmm. Must've been a fluke. I left her job after a while, and went to a couple more places. I went to turn into another parking lot, and it stalled again. Hmm. Now, my senses are really up. Turn it off, start it up, do what I have to do. I go down the road a bit, come to a red light, and it stalls again!! Okay, now I'm getting mad. Turn off, turn on, keep it moving. I went to another light, and I'll be damned if it happen to me for a fourth time. Oh, for the love of... well, you get the point. At this point, every time I go to stop at a light, I put it in neutral and keep the engine semi-revved up so it won't stall. I did that for a little while, until things started working fine again. I park somewhere, I get out, get back in, start up and go. Needless to say, I got all my work done and everything worked out fine. Until I tried to start my truck to go to work on Saturday. It won't start. The freaking battery is drained again. So, I had to leave it until today. I tried looking at everything possible that I can think of or look up in my Haines book. I looked underneath where the starter was, and the power wire for the starter was split open, and there was a couple of places where it looked like it sparked out. I put loom over the wire to protect it, and charged the battery, but it still won't turn over. It just kills everything and takes a lot out of the battery. There's 12v's going to the starter and the alternator, so it's not lacking power. So, what the hell can it be? I'm sorry that this thing is long, but I was told that if you tell someone your problem, and don't leave anything out, that they may be able to help narrow down the issues from the beginning, instead of asking alot of follow-up questions. Plus, this story might give you a quick laugh out of my mishap. Go ahead. I'm used to it.
Jan 04, 2009 (2:48 pm)
1.) Are the ignition and positive battery cable connections on the starter clean and tight?
2.) Is the positive cable on the battery clean and tight?
3.) When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?
4.) The fuel pump inside the tank may be failing and must be replaced along with the in-tank wiring harness and screen.
5.) The fuel pressure regulator may be failing.
Unfortunately the fuel pressure regulator is a intergral part of the MPI (Mmulti- Port Injection) system and is located under the intake manifold top section. You can replace the pressure regulator without replacing the MPI system (spider) by installing a Dorman #55162 (retail $36.99) fuel pressure regulator. As far as I know Dorman is the only company that offers a fuel prssure regulator that is separate from the entire MPI (Multi-Port Injector) for the MPI system.
Be advised: The entire MPI system (GM-17113673) including the fuel pressure regulator has a MSRP of $577.49 plus about $200 labor to replace it. If the pressure regulator is bad, just replace the OEM regulator with the Dorman #55162 regulator.
#358 of 609 Re: Starter [duntov]
Jan 05, 2009 (4:55 am)
Thank you very much. I'm going to try that today.
#359 of 609 Re: Interior Lights [Wrench54]
Jan 05, 2009 (6:41 am)
Interior lights: You might check the button in each door that tells your interior lights that the door is open or closed. One may be stuck.
4WD: Vacuum lines or switch gone bad?
#360 of 609 banging my head against the wall 2
Jan 07, 2009 (6:57 am)
I'm taking the advise that duntov has given me as far as changing the fuel pressure regulator. I took off all of the bolts around the intake manifold and unpugged everything that was in the way. But, of course, I run into a brick wall. This truck, being 14 years old, has never had the intake manifold taken off. So, it's on there tighter than glue. I picked up a can of gasket remover and applied it on in hopes of it to eat its way through the gasket. That didn't work. Does anybody know what to use so I can take this manifold off without breaking it?
#361 of 609 Let's test your skills
Jan 14, 2009 (11:55 am)
I fixed my issue with my 94 blazer not starting. Come to find out that the starter that I put in 2 weeks ago was defective. So, now I have a new problem. I had my truck running pretty good for the past couple of days. I had my check engine light on but I pretty much knew what it was. So, today I go out to check and see if there was any other codes that sould've popped up. There wasn't any, but I noticed that my battery was low again on my dash. I tried to start it up, I got a little whirr, and some smoke from under my dash. So, I'm going "what the F#*!!" . I go and grab a flashlight and the fire extenguisher (just in case), and go back underneath the dash. I poke around, and nothing's wrong. Nothing burnt, nothing melting. I try to start it up again, and it works fine like nothing happened. I tried it a couple more times here and there, and everything was normal. Now, I have to go to my wife's job to bring her something. The ultimate test. Everything's working perfect. I get to her job, park the truck, get out, and come back about %minutes later, and the damn thing's acting up again. Low voltage, smoke, the works. I air out the truck, poke around, and I still don't see anything blown or melted. What the hell?!! Someone, please help! I feel like Charlie Freaking Brown over here!!
#362 of 609 Re: Let's test your skills [94blazer]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jan 14, 2009 (12:31 pm)
Where are you getting these starter motors? Sounds like the same problem...this time excessive starter draw.
A dragging starter can draw HUGE amperage, as in hundreds of amperes. That'll make your wiring harness dance.
#363 of 609 Re: Let's test your skills [Mr_Shiftright]
Jan 15, 2009 (6:03 pm)
Well, I took out the starter that I just put in to have it tested. It was bench-tested 95 amps, which was the max that it should put out. But, I did walk out with a starter/ignition swtich (which, by the way is a pain in the ASS to put in 'cause it's mounted right on the steering column). After installing everything, the truck seem to kick over just fine. I tried it a couple of times, then decided to put the truck back together. After all that was done, I tried to start it again, and it was like it was dead as a freaking doorknob. So, now I'm scratching my head so much that I think I hit bone.
#364 of 609 bad starter
Jan 16, 2009 (3:26 am)
Regardless what the stater test revealed, I feel like your starter is worn out. I did not think people tested starters anymore, they just replace them as a routine procedure after 100,000 miles if there are starting problems. Before replacing the starter, make sure the battery, the cables and the cable connections are good. You need to replace the starter and starter solenoid with a remanufacturered starter and a new starter solenoid.
NAPA has the best remanufactured products. NAPA remanufactured starters cost from $100 + $29 core deposit for a standard starter to $144 + $60 core deposit for a premium remanufactured starter. Both starters include a new solenoid. Replace the old worn out starter and you will be amazed how well the engine starts.
As you found out, there was nothing wrong with your original ignition switch. Ignition switches seldom fail. I have never had to replace a ignition switch after 50 years keeping my old cars in good condition.