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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
460 messages, Last post on Oct 30, 2009 at 4:35 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: ccbecke (Dec 01, 2008 6:40 pm) Okay, lets break this down. Wipers won't turn off, turn signal issue. Probably a bad multifunction switch there on the column. There have also been issues with wipers in the past where the solder joint of the connector on the circuit board of the wiper motor assembly cracks. You unplug the harness, remove the cover, and check the connector for cracked joints. Clean, resolder, reassemble. Don't need to replace the board, it will work when resoldered. Done lots of these. Dome lights. Does anything turn them on? Any door, or the switch on the instrument panel? The 2WD/4WD issue can be a bad solenoid at the transfer case, or a bad vacuum line. Others with 4WD have seen this issue, try searching for it. Hazard and brake lights are on the same circuit, at least partially. Both go through the flasher unit behind the dash, and guess what, they also go through that little multifunction switch mentioned earlier. So, it sounds like most of your problems are related to the servo engagement circuit for the 4WD, and the multifunction switch in the steering column. There is a detailed procedure on changing the switch on the previous page. Hope that helps.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Dec 01, 2008 9:05 pm) |
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| Hi all -- I have an '02 Blazer. The top LED brake light the left rear brake light are not working, but turn signals and hazards work fine....could this also be related to a bad multi function switch I'm reading about here or is there anything else that someone has heard of that might fix this.....open to any and all suggestions. Thanks | |
| This one really puzzles me. While driving and once while parked, no keys in ignition. The interior lights come on and shut off by themselves. If I park the jimmy for a couple of days the battery runs down flat. I had the dealer try to find the problem on three different occasions. They said the battery is ok and they could not find a parasitic load. I am really puzzled on this one searching for answers. | |
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It may be: There is a intermitten short causing a batttery drain. When the battery was checked for a battery drain, the short was not present. My 1991 Blazer had a battery drain and it was found to be a bad power door lock relay. The bad relay completely discharged the battery after I did not drive the vehicle for five days. Bad relays are common causes of battery drains. Replace: The on/off- dome light dimmer switch.. The door switches. They are inexpensive. See if doing that solves the problem. |
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I have a 1998 Jimmy 4x4 its not the battery its my electrical system but l dont know where or what. My lights act funny, one power window gets stuck sometimes, wipers change their own pace, the power reves up my engine sometimes, and my truck died at a light the other night and l couldnt get my speed up to more than 20mph so got it home and havent moved it since. lt starts up just fine but doesnt like to drive anywhere with gasping. lm taking it to the mechanic of course but l wanted to know if anyone else had these problems its never happened before. 
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Would someone help me in understanding how my wipers work only on High? Everything else on the multifunction switch works... I already plugged in a new wiper motor (which includes circuit board). Do I need a new multifunction switch and if so, are they somewhat easy to install? I have a 1998 Chevy blazer. Thanks for the help.. |
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I own a 1995 Chevy Blazer and since the weather has gotten very cold here, the interior lights will not shut off automatically as they should unless the vehicle is really warm. Is there a sensor inside the vehicle or in the electrical system that may have been contaminated by some moisture? Also, even though the indicator light on the button lights up, my "Hi 4 wheel drive' will not engage. Any ideas?? Wrench54
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My issue is this. Last sunday, my blazer broke down in the middle of an intersection. I was able to get the truck out of the way so I could figure out what the issue was. At first, I thought it was the alternator since the one I had was an original. But, that didn't work. Then, I thought it was my battery. No dice. So, i had to have it towed back to my house. While I was watching my truck go on the flatbed, one of the drivers told me that either something got wet underneath, or there was a short somewhere. So, I waited until Monday to see if "drying out" would work. Nope. Come to find out, the aluminum part of the starter broke in two. Great!! So, I bought a new one, and put it in on Tuesday. I charged the battery (cause it went dead in the process between Sunday and Tuesday), and everything worked!! Yes!! So, I drove it for a little bit, and parked it for the night. I didn't drive the truck for two days, but when I started it up on Friday, everything was in working order. I dropped my kids off, and proceeded to go out for a while. I hit a little bit of snow (by the way, I live in Connecticut), but nothing really happened. That is, until I got to my wife's job, which was about 10 miles away. When I tried to turn into her parking area, it stalled. Hmm. I turned it off and started it up again. Hmm. Must've been a fluke. I left her job after a while, and went to a couple more places. I went to turn into another parking lot, and it stalled again. Hmm. Now, my senses are really up. Turn it off, start it up, do what I have to do. I go down the road a bit, come to a red light, and it stalls again!! Okay, now I'm getting mad. Turn off, turn on, keep it moving. I went to another light, and I'll be damned if it happen to me for a fourth time. Oh, for the love of... well, you get the point. At this point, every time I go to stop at a light, I put it in neutral and keep the engine semi-revved up so it won't stall. I did that for a little while, until things started working fine again. I park somewhere, I get out, get back in, start up and go. Needless to say, I got all my work done and everything worked out fine. Until I tried to start my truck to go to work on Saturday. It won't start. The freaking battery is drained again. So, I had to leave it until today. I tried looking at everything possible that I can think of or look up in my Haines book. I looked underneath where the starter was, and the power wire for the starter was split open, and there was a couple of places where it looked like it sparked out. I put loom over the wire to protect it, and charged the battery, but it still won't turn over. It just kills everything and takes a lot out of the battery. There's 12v's going to the starter and the alternator, so it's not lacking power. So, what the hell can it be? I'm sorry that this thing is long, but I was told that if you tell someone your problem, and don't leave anything out, that they may be able to help narrow down the issues from the beginning, instead of asking alot of follow-up questions. Plus, this story might give you a quick laugh out of my mishap. Go ahead. I'm used to it. 
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Possibilities: 1.) Are the ignition and positive battery cable connections on the starter clean and tight? 2.) Is the positive cable on the battery clean and tight? 3.) When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? 4.) The fuel pump inside the tank may be failing and must be replaced along with the in-tank wiring harness and screen. 5.) The fuel pressure regulator may be failing. Unfortunately the fuel pressure regulator is a intergral part of the MPI (Mmulti- Port Injection) system and is located under the intake manifold top section. You can replace the pressure regulator without replacing the MPI system (spider) by installing a Dorman #55162 (retail $36.99) fuel pressure regulator. As far as I know Dorman is the only company that offers a fuel prssure regulator that is separate from the entire MPI (Multi-Port Injector) for the MPI system. Be advised: The entire MPI system (GM-17113673) including the fuel pressure regulator has a MSRP of $577.49 plus about $200 labor to replace it. If the pressure regulator is bad, just replace the OEM regulator with the Dorman #55162 regulator.
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