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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
472 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: bear19 (Aug 25, 2008 5:16 pm) Here's the procedure if you are interested: REMOVAL Remove or disconnect the following: 1. Make sure the lever is in the center or "Off" position. 2. Negative battery cable. 3. Disable the SIR system. (Supplemental Inflatable Restraint ) 4. Inflator module. 5. Tilt wheel lever. 6. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR). 7. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR). 8. Steering wheel nut. 9. Steering wheel using a steering wheel puller. 10. Knee bolster. 11. Loosen steering column bracket nuts. 12. Two TORX(R) head screws from lower column cover. 13. Lower column cover. Tilt cover down and slide back to disengage locking tabs. 14. Two TORX(R) head screws from upper column cover. 15. Steering column lock set. 16. Upper column cover. 17. Two wire harness straps from steering column wire harness. 18. Retainer CPA (Connector Position Assurance) and connector from BTSI. (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock ) 19. Steering column bulkhead connector from vehicle wire harness. 20. Gray and black connectors of switch from column bulkhead connector. 21. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. 22. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch. INSTALLATION CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems. Install or connect the following: 1. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch. o Use small blade screwdriver to compress electrical contact and move multifunction switch into position. o Electrical contact must rest on cancelling cam assembly. 2. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) . 3. Gray and black connectors of switch to column bulkhead connector. 4. Steering column bulkhead connector to vehicle wire harness. 5. Connector and retainer CPA to BTSI. 6. Two wire straps on steering column wire harness. 7. Upper column cover. 8. Steering column bracket nuts. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . 9. Knee bolster. 10. Steering column cylinder lock set. 11. Two TORX(R) head screws to upper column cover. Tighten to 1.4 Nm (12 inch lbs.) . 12. Lower column cover. 13. Two TORX(R) head screws to lower column cover. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) . 14. Make sure the lever is in the center or "OFF" position. 15. Steering wheel onto the steering shaft. 16. Steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.) . 17. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR). 18. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR). 19. Inflator module. 20. Tilt wheel lever. 21. Negative battery cable. 22. Enable the SIR system (if equipped).
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Replying to: coachhill (Sep 16, 2007 8:48 am) |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 25, 2008 5:42 pm) |
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Replying to: jeffery57 (Nov 27, 2007 8:59 am) |
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97 GMC Jimmy with a V6 Vortec, motor was bought from Advance and has around 40000 miles. I didn't put the motor in, it was already installed when I bought it. Hope someone can help me with this miss problem, I will try to explain it the best that I can. First off, new plugs, new plug wires, new coil pack, fuel filter and air filter. Catalytic converter has been removed. No Check engine light is on. The vehicle starts perfect and idles perfect, but when you go up a hill it sometimes has a bad hesitation like you are letting off the fuel back and forth, give it more gas and it quits. Then sometimes on flat ground at 55 mph it does the same thing. Sometimes I can pull into a parking lot at 3 mph or at an idle and the motor has a violent stutter to it. That has only happened twice. So can anyone enlighten me on this subject??
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Replying to: tommyj2 (Oct 08, 2008 7:16 pm)
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Replying to: tommyj2 (Oct 08, 2008 7:16 pm) If the inside of the cap is corroded, pull the distributor and yank out those screens. Previous poster's question about fuel pressure is also a good one--check your fuel pressure. |
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Replying to: mwolf9000 (Oct 09, 2008 5:18 am) |
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| My Jimmy was running fine one day next day It was hesitating and not shifting on time and when shift into reverse the truck would not move. Can someone tell me If Im going to need a new transmission or maybe a filter and fluid change will take care of this problem? | |
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Replying to: bear19 (Aug 25, 2008 5:16 pm)
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