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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

472 messages,  Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM

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#324 of 472 Re: 2000 GMC Jimmy - LED Tail Light / Interior Illumination Lights [bobbyb96] by jlflemmons Aug 09, 2008 (3:51 pm)
Replying to: bobbyb96 (Aug 09, 2008 3:33 pm) Okay, could be dealing with a couple of things here, but one that could be common is a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. If you are getting voltage spikes, or high voltage, you can shorten the life of the bulbs. Find a good voltage meter and check the voltage at the battery with the engine off, and then running. Off should be around 12.6VDC, and running should be around 13.8V to 14.4VDC.   If the entire LED light is out, it could have been damaged by high voltage, but that is not likely. Check your owners manual and see if there is a specific fuse for the third brake light.
#325 of 472 Signal Light malfunction by ironhorse8 Aug 19, 2008 (3:39 pm)
My 2001 Blazer has started having problems with the electrical display. The right side signal light comes on, but does not flash. The left side signal light comes on but flashes at double the normal rate (like a bulb was burned out), unless I hit the Hazard Light switch for a few seconds, then it goes back to normal.      Also, more recently, the ABS and Parking lights will sometimes light up on the dash, unless I shut off the engine and restart. Then it all works fine. Any help would be appreciated.
#326 of 472 chevy--s10blazer blowing turn fuses by ronchase Aug 20, 2008 (4:39 am)
recently my left rear break/blinker fuse began blowin, i changed bulbs, flasher, taped harness wires leaving jack compartment to left tail-light assembly; and looked for any bare wires to ground. still kept blowing fuse when i did any of 3 things; activate 4 way, break, or left turn. Then after a few weeks, both left and right fuses began blowin not necessarily at same time but sometimes yes. Now for about a week my left has stopped blowin and the right is not doing it as often. When the fuses blew i never lost running lights or the led break light over rear hatch. Thanks for any help.
#327 of 472 replacing multifunction switch by bear19 Aug 25, 2008 (5:16 pm)
I just found out today that I need the multifunction switch on my 1997 Blazer replaced. The dealership that I talked to wants about $600.00 for the part and the labor. I plan on trying to replace it myself. Anyone out there have any suggestions for me?? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 25, 2008 5:42 pm) bear19 (Sep 13, 2008 1:43 pm) badassken2004 (Oct 25, 2008 6:29 pm) bear19 (Oct 28, 2008 11:00 am)
#328 of 472 Re: replacing multifunction switch [bear19] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Aug 25, 2008 (5:42 pm)
Replying to: bear19 (Aug 25, 2008 5:16 pm) Doesn't look that easy. Book calls for 2.8 hours labor and the part is $$$ and varies with whether or not you have tilt and cruise control.   Here's the procedure if you are interested:   REMOVAL Remove or disconnect the following:      1. Make sure the lever is in the center or "Off" position.    2. Negative battery cable.    3. Disable the SIR system. (Supplemental Inflatable Restraint )    4. Inflator module.    5. Tilt wheel lever.    6. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).    7. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).    8. Steering wheel nut.    9. Steering wheel using a steering wheel puller.   10. Knee bolster.   11. Loosen steering column bracket nuts.   12. Two TORX(R) head screws from lower column cover.   13. Lower column cover. Tilt cover down and slide back to disengage locking tabs.   14. Two TORX(R) head screws from upper column cover.   15. Steering column lock set.   16. Upper column cover.   17. Two wire harness straps from steering column wire harness.   18. Retainer CPA (Connector Position Assurance) and connector from BTSI. (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock )   19. Steering column bulkhead connector from vehicle wire harness.   20. Gray and black connectors of switch from column bulkhead connector.   21. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch.   22. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.   INSTALLATION   CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.   Install or connect the following:      1. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.             o Use small blade screwdriver to compress electrical contact and move multifunction switch into position.           o Electrical contact must rest on cancelling cam assembly.      2. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .    3. Gray and black connectors of switch to column bulkhead connector.    4. Steering column bulkhead connector to vehicle wire harness.    5. Connector and retainer CPA to BTSI.    6. Two wire straps on steering column wire harness.    7. Upper column cover.    8. Steering column bracket nuts. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .    9. Knee bolster.   10. Steering column cylinder lock set.   11. Two TORX(R) head screws to upper column cover. Tighten to 1.4 Nm (12 inch lbs.) .   12. Lower column cover.   13. Two TORX(R) head screws to lower column cover. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .   14. Make sure the lever is in the center or "OFF" position.   15. Steering wheel onto the steering shaft.   16. Steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.) .   17. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).   18. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).   19. Inflator module.   20. Tilt wheel lever.   21. Negative battery cable.   22. Enable the SIR system (if equipped). Replies to this message: bear19 (Sep 13, 2008 1:43 pm)
#329 of 472 Re: Figured out the problem! Somewhat?!?! [coachhill] by tigers02 Sep 10, 2008 (1:17 pm)
Replying to: coachhill (Sep 16, 2007 8:48 am) My problem sounds exactly like yours...left the tailgate open the other night in the rain and now the pushbutton, power locks, and rear hatch actuator operate intermittently. I dissassembled everything but couldn't figure out how to remove the pushbutton/lock assembly for cleaning. This post was a year old but do you remember how to remove the lock.
#330 of 472 Re: replacing multifunction switch [Mr_Shiftright] by bear19 Sep 13, 2008 (1:43 pm)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 25, 2008 5:42 pm) We found out that our problem was the flasher for the 4-ways and the flasher for the turn signals. Luckily the parts store would take back the multi-purpose switch that I bought.I found out that the multi-purpose switch can be removed and replaced without pulling the steering column. A #25 torx bit might have to be modified to get one screw out, but if you take your time, it can be done. A #5 internal torx soccet is also needed. Thank you for your help, and I hope this will help someone. (The switch alone cost about $200.00!)
#331 of 472 Re: 97 blazer electrical problem [jeffery57] by mvicars Sep 17, 2008 (5:27 pm)
Replying to: jeffery57 (Nov 27, 2007 8:59 am) I'm also having the same problem on my 97 GMC Jimmy. I suspect the grounds but I haven't verified it. Have you fixed the problem yet? What was the fix?
#332 of 472 97 GMC Jimmy has a bad miss by tommyj2 Oct 08, 2008 (7:16 pm)
97 GMC Jimmy with a V6 Vortec, motor was bought from Advance and has around 40000 miles. I didn't put the motor in, it was already installed when I bought it. Hope someone can help me with this miss problem, I will try to explain it the best that I can. First off, new plugs, new plug wires, new coil pack, fuel filter and air filter. Catalytic converter has been removed. No Check engine light is on. The vehicle starts perfect and idles perfect, but when you go up a hill it sometimes has a bad hesitation like you are letting off the fuel back and forth, give it more gas and it quits. Then sometimes on flat ground at 55 mph it does the same thing. Sometimes I can pull into a parking lot at 3 mph or at an idle and the motor has a violent stutter to it. That has only happened twice. So can anyone enlighten me on this subject?? Replies to this message: mwolf9000 (Oct 09, 2008 5:18 am) ealvarez (Oct 18, 2008 11:40 am) judastouch (Oct 09, 2008 6:14 am)
#333 of 472 Re: 97 GMC Jimmy has a bad miss [tommyj2] by mwolf9000 Oct 09, 2008 (5:18 am)
Replying to: tommyj2 (Oct 08, 2008 7:16 pm) Have you checked the fuel pressure from the fuel pump? Replies to this message: ealvarez (Oct 18, 2008 11:40 am)

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