Last post on Mar 25, 2013 at 5:45 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet, GMC Jimmy, SUV
#321 of 607 Re: 1997 GMC Jimmy- #2 fuse blown [jlflemmons]
Aug 07, 2008 (7:33 pm)
JLFLEMMONS, thank you, you are the friggin' man! I read the first sentence of your reply and knew that had to be it! I never gave it a thought, but earlier today I replaced my lighter with this lighter I bought that has a die (rolling dice) on the end of it. I took the lighter out, replaced the fuse and BAM! Everything works! I never thought it could be that simple. The lighter is cool looking, but I threw the damn thing away. I am so glad I found this forum, if there is anything else I will ever need for my auto this is the first place I'll come looking for advice. Thanks again buddy!
#322 of 607 Re: 1997 GMC Jimmy- #2 fuse blown [do_it_myself]
Aug 08, 2008 (9:11 am)
You're welcome, glad I could help.
#323 of 607 2000 GMC Jimmy - LED Tail Light / Interior Illumination Lights
Aug 09, 2008 (4:33 pm)
I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy and I noticed that things are starting to either short out, or blow out. I've checked all the fuses and they all seem to be fine. What I have noticed is that my LED tail light has refused to work for some time. Not exactly sure how to check whether it has gone bad or what. Another thing is the lights for my Gearshift Display (R, N, D, 3, 2, 1) does not illuminate anymore, along with 4 of the 6 channel buttons for the stock stereo. Any ideas? Thanks, Bobby
#324 of 607 Re: 2000 GMC Jimmy - LED Tail Light / Interior Illumination Lights [bobbyb96]
Aug 09, 2008 (4:51 pm)
Okay, could be dealing with a couple of things here, but one that could be common is a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. If you are getting voltage spikes, or high voltage, you can shorten the life of the bulbs. Find a good voltage meter and check the voltage at the battery with the engine off, and then running. Off should be around 12.6VDC, and running should be around 13.8V to 14.4VDC.
If the entire LED light is out, it could have been damaged by high voltage, but that is not likely. Check your owners manual and see if there is a specific fuse for the third brake light.
#325 of 607 Signal Light malfunction
Aug 19, 2008 (4:39 pm)
My 2001 Blazer has started having problems with the electrical display. The right side signal light comes on, but does not flash. The left side signal light comes on but flashes at double the normal rate (like a bulb was burned out), unless I hit the Hazard Light switch for a few seconds, then it goes back to normal.
Also, more recently, the ABS and Parking lights will sometimes light up on the dash, unless I shut off the engine and restart. Then it all works fine. Any help would be appreciated.
#326 of 607 chevy--s10blazer blowing turn fuses
Aug 20, 2008 (5:39 am)
recently my left rear break/blinker fuse began blowin, i changed bulbs, flasher, taped harness wires leaving jack compartment to left tail-light assembly; and looked for any bare wires to ground. still kept blowing fuse when i did any of 3 things; activate 4 way, break, or left turn. Then after a few weeks, both left and right fuses began blowin not necessarily at same time but sometimes yes. Now for about a week my left has stopped blowin and the right is not doing it as often. When the fuses blew i never lost running lights or the led break light over rear hatch. Thanks for any help.
#327 of 607 replacing multifunction switch
Aug 25, 2008 (6:16 pm)
I just found out today that I need the multifunction switch on my 1997 Blazer replaced. The dealership that I talked to wants about $600.00 for the part and the labor. I plan on trying to replace it myself. Anyone out there have any suggestions for me??
#328 of 607 Re: replacing multifunction switch [bear19]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Aug 25, 2008 (6:42 pm)
Doesn't look that easy. Book calls for 2.8 hours labor and the part is $$$ and varies with whether or not you have tilt and cruise control.
Here's the procedure if you are interested:
Remove or disconnect the following:
1. Make sure the lever is in the center or "Off" position.
2. Negative battery cable.
3. Disable the SIR system. (Supplemental Inflatable Restraint )
4. Inflator module.
5. Tilt wheel lever.
6. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
7. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
8. Steering wheel nut.
9. Steering wheel using a steering wheel puller.
10. Knee bolster.
11. Loosen steering column bracket nuts.
12. Two TORX(R) head screws from lower column cover.
13. Lower column cover. Tilt cover down and slide back to disengage locking tabs.
14. Two TORX(R) head screws from upper column cover.
15. Steering column lock set.
16. Upper column cover.
17. Two wire harness straps from steering column wire harness.
18. Retainer CPA (Connector Position Assurance) and connector from BTSI. (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock )
19. Steering column bulkhead connector from vehicle wire harness.
20. Gray and black connectors of switch from column bulkhead connector.
21. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch.
22. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install or connect the following:
1. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.
o Use small blade screwdriver to compress electrical contact and move multifunction switch into position.
o Electrical contact must rest on cancelling cam assembly.
2. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
3. Gray and black connectors of switch to column bulkhead connector.
4. Steering column bulkhead connector to vehicle wire harness.
5. Connector and retainer CPA to BTSI.
6. Two wire straps on steering column wire harness.
7. Upper column cover.
8. Steering column bracket nuts. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
9. Knee bolster.
10. Steering column cylinder lock set.
11. Two TORX(R) head screws to upper column cover. Tighten to 1.4 Nm (12 inch lbs.) .
12. Lower column cover.
13. Two TORX(R) head screws to lower column cover. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
14. Make sure the lever is in the center or "OFF" position.
15. Steering wheel onto the steering shaft.
16. Steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.) .
17. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
18. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
19. Inflator module.
20. Tilt wheel lever.
21. Negative battery cable.
22. Enable the SIR system (if equipped).
#329 of 607 Re: Figured out the problem! Somewhat?!?! [coachhill]
Sep 10, 2008 (2:17 pm)
My problem sounds exactly like yours...left the tailgate open the other night in the rain and now the pushbutton, power locks, and rear hatch actuator operate intermittently. I dissassembled everything but couldn't figure out how to remove the pushbutton/lock assembly for cleaning. This post was a year old but do you remember how to remove the lock.
#330 of 607 Re: replacing multifunction switch [Mr_Shiftright]
Sep 13, 2008 (2:43 pm)
We found out that our problem was the flasher for the 4-ways and the flasher for the turn signals. Luckily the parts store would take back the multi-purpose switch that I bought.I found out that the multi-purpose switch can be removed and replaced without pulling the steering column. A #25 torx bit might have to be modified to get one screw out, but if you take your time, it can be done. A #5 internal torx soccet is also needed. Thank you for your help, and I hope this will help someone. (The switch alone cost about $200.00!)