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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
472 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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| 85 Blazer 350 4x4- New Altenator-Battery-Battery wiring and terminals- New Alt Plug- New Starter- ----Altenator power only randomly gets to the battery- Can I just straight wire it some way. How can this even happen? | |
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Help my button on my hazzard lights popped out of the column and a spring flew accross the cab. My 4 ways will not shut off now. I stuck an ink pen to hold the button down under the dash. I priced the switch and they want 230 dollars for the whole piece because it controlls the wipers, 4 ways, blinkers, and cruise. Is there any place just to but the red button and spring? 1997 s-10 blazer 2wd
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Replying to: mrafindley (Jul 13, 2008 6:48 pm) |
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I recently "inherited" a 96 Chevy Blazer. The biggest problem is that the brake lights do not come on nor do the turn signals. The hazard lights also do not work as the button is broke off in the column. Can anyone advise where I should start or where to locate some likely causes? Any help would be greatly appreciated. bobby
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Replying to: bobbyburrell (Jul 14, 2008 4:35 pm) |
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I have a blinker problem, that is no blinkers. I have checked the little fuses and the bulbs but I don't know what else there is. Does anyone know if there is another fuse or something else I should be doing to try and fix this? I would appreciate any help I can get.. 
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This is a general answer to this problem. I know I just went through it myself. The turn Signal Switch incorporates the Hazard Switch, High and Low beam headlights, Windshield Wiper speed, intermittent, and washer spray contacts along with the Cruise Control if so equipped. This is usually caused by excessive carbon build-up in the Turn Signal portion of the switch switch on the steering column itself. It's not too, too hard to replace the switch if your good with tools and patience. Just remember that there are more than one "Turn Signal Switch" produced for these vehicles, "extended build" and "option code" variables. The switch may even be opened to clean out the carbon build up on the contacts inside the switch, but you have to be very diligent in attempting this repair. I personally at the time, did not want to try to open the switch only because I couldn't afford to be without the vehicle. You have to open the drivers side of the dash and drop the steering wheel. I know sometimes the way Murphy's Law works and I would have been on the bad side of Murphy. The Dealership wanted over $600.00 to do the job, $280.00 for the Switch itself. Cost me $220.00 for the new switch from a site on the internet which included expedited shipping and 3+ hours of my time. I got the switch in 24 hours, would have been 2 days from the dealer. The switch is OEM too. After installing the new switch I decided to open and repair the switch, which was LOADED with carbon build-up in the Turn Signal portion of the switch. Now I have an extra switch. There are plenty of sites on the web where you can get the switch, but like I said make sure it's the correct one for the Vehicle. GOOD LUCK!  I truly hope this does not upset the Hosts or Moderators of the site, If it does I apologize. I tried to understand the terms of the site but I'm a Mechanic, not a an Attorney or I would have posted the site I did business with. |
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I'm pumped, just bought a 97' Jimmy yesterday. Very, very well kept. Just 71k mi. Went to open rear hatch earlier today (worked fine yesterday) with the key remote and it wouldn't open. So, I used the button on the dash to open it, it wouldn't open. I tried the key, wouldn't open. I finally checked the fuse (# 2- 20amp) and it was blown. (also controls lighter, horn, etc.) I tried to replace it, and once the new fuse made contact it sparked and blew. The next time I tried replacing the fuse without the engine running, again it blew. What could be causing this? I'm sure probably a short in the wiring somewhere, but where should I begin? I am a rookie to auto-repair, but not bad at it. Please someone help me!
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Replying to: do_it_myself (Aug 07, 2008 1:40 pm) To blow a 20 amp on contact, you have a hard short. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Look at the wiring around the lighter, and under the dash for any cuts, jumpers, modifications, that sort of thing. Did the car have a custom audio system that was removed before selling? Or an electric brake controller for trailer brakes?
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