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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

472 messages,  Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM

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#21 of 472 Re: Dashboard Lights Out [blaze4x4] by morgan13 Sep 28, 2006 (10:54 am)
Replying to: blaze4x4 (Sep 28, 2006 9:34 am) It cut in and out a few times which leads me to believe it isn't a fuse, but I will certainly take a look and appreciate your advice. I looked at the fuse panel layout in the owner's manual when it happened and the instruments that are out seem to be on several different fuses, but again, I will take a look.
#22 of 472 Re: Dashboard Lights Out [morgan13] by repairdog Sep 29, 2006 (2:23 am)
Replying to: morgan13 (Sep 28, 2006 4:49 am) I would suspect the headlight switch assembly - its about $55 and after you pull the dash bezel off (center screw above gauges into dash top, recall 2 on the lower trim under steering wheel , then bezel snaps out and you change the switch by unscrewing 4 more screws) but watch out you do NOT break the hazard switch on top of the steering column when you remove the bezel! The dimmer section is a rheostat with a heat sink and they fail and then it has the auto headlight on/off feature in it too. Most auto stores carry these in stock.
#23 of 472 Re: 1998 Chevy Blazer: turn signal problems [david565] by e5husmc Oct 02, 2006 (4:12 pm)
Replying to: david565 (Sep 26, 2006 2:20 pm) Taking the switch out isn't hard as long as are careful, taking the switch apart isn't too bad but can be fun to put back together. Look at this way, you can try to fix the switch first, worst-case you will need to buy a new switch. Replies to this message: david565 (Oct 21, 2006 12:57 pm) repairdog (Oct 21, 2006 1:43 pm) david565 (Oct 21, 2006 3:50 pm) and 2 more...
#24 of 472 Charging/electrical problem by dolphin1 Oct 06, 2006 (9:36 am)
Hi, My 2000 Blazer started making an electrical whinning noise which corresponded to the rpm. Soon after the noise started, my original alternator died. I replaced it with a NAPA reman, and it worked fine for 3 days. On the forth day, it too died. I brought it back and got another one. After installing the second reman, the electrical winning sound returned and the voltage is fluctuating from 12.8~14.0 depending on the rpm. I have also recently replaced my battery with an Optima yellow top. Am I looking at some sort of short. Help!! Replies to this message: repairdog (Oct 07, 2006 4:17 am)
#25 of 472 Re: Charging/electrical problem [dolphin1] by repairdog Oct 07, 2006 (4:17 am)
Replying to: dolphin1 (Oct 06, 2006 9:36 am) Get the system tested - free at most auto stores and it will do a load test and amp draw. I skip the rebuilts now due to the problems you have (or had) and for $15 more get the new one - about $150 vs $135. Could be the tensioner pullet or idler pulley or water pump so listen closely and get the free test and check the main cables too.
#26 of 472 90 Jimmy electric promblem by gator14 Oct 08, 2006 (1:23 pm)
My jimmy wasn't working awhile back and to get it going we had to jump the relay. Now i when i turn on the right turn signal the fuse blows and when i touch the brake pedal the fuse blows, Also no 4 ways. I'am not good with electic wires,but i will try. Just not sure where to start looking.
#27 of 472 Electrical Gremlins in my 2000 Blazer 4x4 by johnny427 Oct 09, 2006 (2:29 pm)
It all began with the battery. The positive cable connection at the battery got horribly green and white corrosion, so I cleaned that out. Solved the no start problem.   Since then I've had several very weird problems.   1. When I start the truck, the rear hatch opens! The only reason I know this is because the "hatch open light" comes on.   2. The radio doesn't remember the correct time anymore, but does remember preset radio stations.   3. This morning I drove the 25 highway miles to work, then got called back home for a small family emergency. When I started the truck back up, the IDLE speed was 3000 RPM!!! If I nudged the throttle it would increase, then drop back down to 3000RPM. Thought maybe the air filter was dirty, it looked fine. The throttle didn't seem to be stuck, manipulated it by hand under the hood. Interestingly enough when I put the car into reverse or drive, the RPMS would drop to 1500rpm. If put back into Park or Neutral, they would rocket back up to 3000rpm. About 10 miles into my trip back home from work the RPM issue went away...idle speed was around 500rpm in any gear.   Whats causing all of this craziness? This is my family's only vehicle and with my wife being 5 months pregnant I dread the thought of not having a reliable vehicle at the ready! Replies to this message: repairdog (Oct 10, 2006 2:25 am)
#28 of 472 Re: Electrical Gremlins in my 2000 Blazer 4x4 [johnny427] by repairdog Oct 10, 2006 (2:25 am)
Replying to: johnny427 (Oct 09, 2006 2:29 pm) Now that BOTH battery terminals are clean and cables are good is the voltage correct on the gage about 14 volts? Blazers act screwy with low voltage so have a battery load test done and make such the alternator is good - that would be an easy #1. The computer does have a canned program it defaults to after battery disconnection and it then relearns from driving and actual sensor readings so is the SES light on and if so what codes #2. Then clean the air intake of the throttle body and the valve with spray and old toothbrush so no deposits and free operation (don't spray the whole can or will start really hard but then OK)as #3. On from there.
#29 of 472 Re: 1998 Chevy Blazer: turn signal problems [e5husmc] by david565 Oct 21, 2006 (12:57 pm)
Replying to: e5husmc (Oct 02, 2006 4:12 pm) Well I got a new switch and finally got it put in. Everything works except I'm still having problems with the windshield wipers. The pulse works, and high speed wipe, and the spray wipe work, but regular speed wipe and delay wipe still don't work. Any suggestions? Replies to this message: repairdog (Oct 21, 2006 1:43 pm) david565 (Oct 21, 2006 3:50 pm) repairdog (Oct 22, 2006 3:53 am) and 1 more...
#30 of 472 Re: 1998 Chevy Blazer: turn signal problems [david565] by repairdog Oct 21, 2006 (1:43 pm)
Replying to: david565 (Oct 21, 2006 12:57 pm) Yep, that's the circuit card in the wiper motor (drivers side under hood)- it can be burned traces or a simple remove, clean the grease off and install again not over tightening the 3 cover torx screws that can distort the card. Common problem and many stores carry the card at approx $50. if required. Replies to this message: david565 (Oct 21, 2006 3:50 pm) repairdog (Oct 22, 2006 3:53 am) cardoc50 (Feb 27, 2009 1:54 pm)

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