Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems
193 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 1:44 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Forum. Your Host is kcram
|
I just purchased a 2008 GMC 2500 Sierra crew cab. I presently own 4 GM vehicles that are 2003 or newer. I have owed over 15 GM cars in my lifetime. I have a little over 900 miles on the truck and have experienced some brake problems. When the brakes are applied as you are approaching a stop light, and you happen to hit a bump in the road, recessed manhole cover, or small pot hole, the vehicle will momentary loose all brakes. This is only for a fraction of a second; however when you are traveling at 40 or 50 MPH, this situation turns to panic as you approach the car in front of you with NO brakes. At 50 MPH a fraction of a second quickly turns into 20 ft of stopping distance. This has happened to me 4 times including once while taking a GM service tech for a ride. GM claims there is nothing wrong with the brakes, since the vehicle is operating “as engineered”. They stated that they have no intention on correcting this problem. They stated that under those circumstances, with this vehicle, that this is normal. I asked for a letter to that affect, but they refused. The other problem that I have, which is also “as engineered”, is that the defrosters and defoggers don’t work. Part of this problem is due to the fact that the windshield defroster is only 22 inches for a 5 ft plus windshield. In cold weather, two triangle about 8X 8 freezes up on the outside of the windshield in both bottom corners. This makes visibility tough because the wipers are dragging ice across the windshield. The other part of the problem is that GM no longer runs the air conditioner to take out the humidity when the defroster is on in cold weather. You can’t override the system in cold weather. This causes a problem in cold rainy weather. The inside of the windows run with water when it is raining or your clothes or jacket is wet. I was on the phone approximately 30 minutes with GM and my windows were still fogged. "As engineered" |
|
We have a 2004 Silverado truck with 15000 miles and a 2006 Astro Van with 32000 miles. Bought both new. Just took to the dealer and were told that the rotors have rusted because we do not drive enough. We have had 6 Astro Vans and drove them the same way as the 2006 and this is the first problem with rusting rotors.
|
|
|
Replying to: rtc3 (Mar 26, 2008 8:35 am)
|
|
|
Replying to: obyone (Mar 26, 2008 12:10 pm) To describe what I saw was that the rotor was rusting over from the outside >to> inside where one inch of shinny rotor metal was available for seating with the pads and calipers, should have been 2 inches approx. (mind you this was in 2001) his truck was one year old and was not stopping properly. His vehicle sat outside and was at a military base for several months while preparing for IRAQ. I have had several post to describe the issue, GMC/CHEVY and GM designs with their breaking systems have fallen down. IT IS NOT every vehicle that this happens on just mainly their larger vehicles. The Dealer tech (for my friends vehicle) said they were trained on the issue and know that it is a QUALITY SNAFU (Situation normal, "all flubbed/fouled up") I started to see the same issue on my 2003 and felt the less than lack luster performance since day one. I feel the master cylinder is fine and the hoses are okay, pedal mechanics work fine. I replaced the rear "calipers & rotors- and installed SSbrake lines), front: i replaced the rotors....had the brakes done 75K miles ago ..and have had NO problem since. My rotors are not rusting over and brakes work great for almost two years now, my dealer was approach to fix the issue several times, before i took action...they gave me the run around, and laughed at me no doubt after i left the service visit. I have two small kids and could wait for the truck to have a incident to fix the situation |
|
|
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab and since the vehicle has had 2000 miles (3500 Kms) it develops a violent vibration / shimmy in the steering wheel during bothe town and highway driving; you can smell the brakes buring, and the rims gets so hot you can burn your fingers on them. The problem happens more on hot days on the higway, and during the winter we don't experience the vibrations as much, but we do still get a metallic burning smell from the brakes. When the vibration occurs the truck will not accelerate as you can feel the brakes ceasing and holding the vehicle back. The steering wheel literally vibrates 1 - 2 inches each way, and when we apply the brakes to pull off the road the vibration maginfies causing the truck and steering wheel to violently vibrate and shudder, in turn making it very difficult to steer and stop, and the pulsation in the brake peddle is unbelievable; all o fthis while driving at 100 - 120 km/hr. I know this is a huge safety issue and I fear everything will cease up one day, or I won;t be able to stop safely. I've been to the dealer too many times to count since we got the truck, and they are continuosly replacing / repairing front end brake components as the heat / friction from the problem has caused things to crack and warp. I've asked them to check the ABS module to see if it was malfunctioning, and the dealership can never get the truck to replicate the issue so they don't know what to do....plus it is causing the tires to wear excessively and feather due to the vibration at high speeds. I know there are brake issues with GMC...I'm at a loss of what to do, has anyone had this problem and was it fixed, or maybe some suggestions or things I can ask the dealership to do...besides replace my vehicle as they aren't interested in that. Thanks
|
|
|
Replying to: lfil (Apr 14, 2008 5:20 am)  . I was torn and loved the truck and my two toddlers. I also notices the front wheels covered in dust but the back wheels hardly ever need to be cleaned... Hmmm? I went to SSBC.com and bought the rear tri-caliper sets and Russel SS brake hoses kit, mind you this caliper upgrade was for the Rear ONLY...I used the SS brake hoses on the front as well. I also ordered the SSBC.com treated rotors package for all four wheels. I spent about 4 hours by myself doing a side at a time in my garage. I now have no problem and the truck ...after 50K miles... still feels new even after sitting at the airport for three weeks straight, and no rusting over of the rear rotors In my honest opinion have the dealer replace the rear calipers....see if this makes a difference and have them buy new rotors and pads for all 4 wheels..... , you might also go to Russel and buy the SS braided brake line kit this will also help the lines from feeling soft, and improve pedal feel, help with better braking habits...my wife has a lead foot when it comes to gas and brakes, helps her feel more in control I have a huge problem with the rear calipers from the factory, and if i buy another GMC I will request the dealer upgrade the brakes and finance the SSBC package as part of the vehicle costs. Brembo also makes a kit but with a significant price difference, the SSBC kit allows for standard wheel size and i think the brembo kit requires 18+ inch wheels and tires... |
|
| I bought all new rotors and pads for my '01 GMC Sierra. The front fit perfectly pads and all but the back rotors are to thick for the caliper bracket. Is there anything I can do the fix this problem without having to turn my new rotors? | |
|
Replying to: jrock33 (Apr 15, 2008 6:47 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: jrock33 (Apr 15, 2008 6:47 pm) Not sure if you are doing the work yourself or with help, I believe the rear calipers are needing to be compressed, I cant remember, but I think you have to turn the piston to close them or to get them to close... you might pickup a truck maintenance or brake caliper manual for actual instructions. Its been two years since I did mine and I don't work on them that often hopefully for another 100K miles. I believe to compress the rear caliper sets due to the design I think I had to compress the calipers a funny way to get the new rotor and pads to fit correctly and meet up (tight fit if I remember). When i replaced the rear calipers they came compressed from SSBC.com factory I found this on a few sites: For the rear calipers, you will need to turn the piston clockwise(as you are looking at the top of the piston), about one or two turns and then compress the piston as far as it will go, the turn the piston again and then compress again, repeat until you are all the way to the bottom. I highly recommend the Kent Moore brake compression tool. Hope this helps, I would also check to see if the part shipped was the part you ordered, and the part you actually needed. Hope this helps
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2010 GMC Sierra 1500
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
