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Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems
200 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 1:31 PM
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| I put new brakes and just changed 2 master cylinders blead breaks several times and still when I stop at a stop sign the peddle slowly goes to the floor, There are no leaks anywhere, Can anyone help me figure out what's wrong? | |
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Yesterday, my 2005 silverado started making this weird roaring sound when braking. It ONLY happens when I am breaking and doesnt cause the car to jolt or shake. It sounds just like a plain is flying over, its a low rumble or roar that could be grinding too. Oddly enough, I cannot hear it outside the vehicle with the window rolled down and i can only hear it from inside. It only happens when i brake really slowly and am breaking at a slow speed. Quick breaking or slow breaking at high speeds doesn't cause the sound. It only happens when driving slowly and braking slowly. Its has 72,000 miles on it, has always been serviced well, and it was just inspected and it passed just 3 days ago (tx). Anyone have any ideas?
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I climb under my 2003 2500 HD silverado, Durimax Diesel that I bought new to change the oil and look at eveywhere there was a clip on the brake line it was ready to rust through. So I go to the local Auto Parts store to get some brake line. The fittings on my truck are 14mm nuts with either 10mm or 12 mm threads on the nuts, and the line is 10 thousands bigger than 1/4 inch line. Advanced Auto, and NAPA as well as all the other auto part stores have only american standard threads on their brake line pieces. I will get metric inverted nuts then they don't have them and can't get them????Ok, I will get metric! CAN'T they dont have any metric lines,or nuts on 1/4 inch line? You've got to be kidding me!Nor, can they get it??? They have no Inverted fittings on 1/4 inch metric either??? My line is not bubble its inverted??? OK I go to the Chevy Dealer and order the parts--- I can't all their computers and books tell me their is American line and nuts on my truck. The parts guy looks at my line and says thats metric, but nothing listed in computer is metric for 2003,2005,2002 and he can't get it either. So only option I have is to cut off line and re-use old nuts on 1/4 inch line and hope the flange tool compensates for the 10 thousands line size difference and what if I strip one I'm in a world of hurt. Is there anyone else that has had this problem? I can't be the only one in America with this problem and what did you do?
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Replying to: fideuce (Nov 12, 2009 9:28 pm) I have not heard of this issue, we have 4 GMC pickups in the family and not had this issue, we have had our brakes, and brake line rusting, but not the metric/american issue. You may review some of these threads... #125 of 178Re: Rusted Brake lines, 2003 GMC 50K miles [barnowl3] by ttaupier1, ..........in the : Forums/Pickups/Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra/Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems There are several links and different guys that needed to find the solutions to similar problems (rusty lines). To tell you the truth, I am very surprised this is the first time, we have seen or heard of this, knowing the vehicles are mostly manufactured in a Metric based countrys, and serviced in the USA, ...almost sounds like there was a daily supply issue and someone at the factory came-up with a short time fix... Yikes... keep us posted.. |
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I need to replace the rear brake pads on my '99 Silverado, and was told that I may need a special tool to compress the calipers. Will a regular 'C' Clamp not work. If not what of kind of tool is this and is it easy to get?
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Replying to: johnc65 (Nov 21, 2009 8:37 am) |
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Replying to: johnc65 (Nov 21, 2009 8:37 am) Important: Use denatured alcohol to clean the outside surface of caliper boot before installing new brake pads. 1.If you are installing new brake pads, use a C-clamp in order to compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore. Use the old brake pad, a metal plate or a wooden block across the face of the piston in order to protect the piston and the caliper boot. Important: Use a small flat-bladed tool and lift the inner edge caliper boot next to the piston to release any trapped air. 2.Ensure that the piston boot is below the level of the piston face. 3.Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket. Important: Ensure that the wear sensor is positioned at the leading edge (upward) of the inner pad during forward wheel rotation. 4.Install the brake pads over the brake pad retainers and onto the caliper bracket. 5.Install the tire and wheel assembly. 6.Lower the vehicle. 7.With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of it's travel distance. 8.Slowly release the brake pedal. 9.Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-8 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads. 10.Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid. 11.Burnish the pads and the rotors. |
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Replying to: johnc65 (Nov 21, 2009 8:37 am) was unaware that nearly all modern vehicles w/rear disc brakes NEED turned in, like a screw. so i ruined a clamp and the calliper trying to figure it out  the special tool purchase is not required in most cases because most auto parts stores offer free tool rentals to promote the sales of auto parts, and the tool they offer is usually better than the one most people are willing purchase due to expense probably in the upwards of $50. there is a cheap tool option 3 to 4 bucks kinda looks like a cube w/ a 3/8 ratchet drive hole on each side for a extention to fit to your ratchet. and it has different sized/shaped pegs at the corners of each side to make it more compatible with other vehicles, efficient but difficult to use and i really dont suggest it either but ive used one and it did get the job done. also check this ..post out.. >> #134 of 182Re: Brake Pad replacement with ABS [Bloozester] by ttaupier1 good luck |
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Replying to: gandalf77577 (Nov 05, 2009 1:48 pm)
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