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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

199 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 5:24 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Silverado 1500, GMC Sierra 1500, Chevrolet Silverado 2500, Brakes, Truck

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#136 of 199 Re: Brake Pad replacement with ABS [Bloozester] by ttaupier1 Mar 12, 2009 (6:21 am)
Replying to: Bloozester (Mar 11, 2009 4:48 pm) i just used a C-clamp... and went slow... if you do use the bleed screw, I would have had to mount the drain hose to help capture the fluid. I was lazy.. and knew i was taking the hose off to replace the with the braided one.   here are some of my photos.. http://www.carspace.com/ttaupier1/Albums/2003-5_3truck/   so as to not damage anything.. i was not in a rush and did the whole system ( all 4 wheels in about 4.5 hrs with replacing the and bleeding the entire system.. ) Replies to this message: 2easy4me (Apr 12, 2009 4:06 pm)
#137 of 199 Re: Chev Silverado Brake Failure [mcleand] by fishwishin Apr 01, 2009 (1:24 pm)
Replying to: mcleand (Jun 24, 2006 12:13 pm) I am researching problems with the 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500HD Quadrasteer to see if it makes sense to keep it for the long haul or to trade up. I was surprised to hear about the problems reported here with brakes! I have 87000 miles on the truck which I bought new and it still has a ton of pad left on the original ceramic brake pads and the rotors look perfect. I also did not see any unusual corrosion on the brake lines. I live in N. CA so I deal with snow rarely, about 6 times a year as I drive over the mountains to go fishing. I put about 10% of the miles on the truck towing a 3500 lb boat/trailer and launch in salt water about 25 times a year so that would offer the opportunity for corrosion, although I am careful to rince the back of the truck after each trip. The only problem I have with the brakes is that the parking brake has never worked well, I would hate to ever have to rely on it. I have never had brakes that would go this long; I am almost sure I will make 100k miles before they need attention. Not sure what the variations are, but I am thrilled with the brakes on this truck. Now if we could do something about the gas mileage that would be something!
#138 of 199 Re: Brake Pad replacement by 2easy4me Apr 12, 2009 (4:06 pm)
Replying to: ttaupier1 (Mar 12, 2009 6:21 am) DRIVER #1: My right rear disc brake was squealing. Inside brake pad was worn down to metal. Left side was OK but I installed new rear break pads on both wheels. Also had the rotors machined. My problem is, after re-assembling my rear brakes, they drag and don't release.   DRIVER #2: I changed the rear brake pads & rotors. Brakes started overheating- went back in and changed out both calipers... that did fix passenger side, but driver side is still overheating. Is it possible the new caliper is bad? I already checked brake hoses, fluid seems to flow freely.   CAUSE: Oh yes, that infamous GM right rear brake pad problem. A rapid RIGHT REAR brake pad wear problem is common on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from ’99 to ’04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt/mud flies straight into them. This steady diet of grit causes the caliper to seize and the inside brake pad to wear out rapidly, causing the "squealing" or "grinding" noise often reported.   SOLUTION: GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which they simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses the rapid brake pad wear problem. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is the cause of this very common problem. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. I would suggest installing the mud flap kit before your next brake job.   As for the new pads dragging and not releasing, DRIVER #2 was smart to check the fluid flow through the brake hoses, but more commonly, did you compress the caliper pistons in as far as they would go when replacing the pads? Retry depressing the caliper pistons back into the caliper as far as you can; make sure the caliper is loose over the pads as you reinstall it. When you press the brake pedal a few times, it should reset the pistons to where they need to be. If not, bleed the system.   Also, were the sliders on the calipers free and loose? The sliders are the metal tube the bolts run through to mount the caliper. These allow the caliper to self-adjust as the pads wear down. If these are still seized or "frozen", you are running your brakes as if your pads are still worn, causing much friction with the new thicker pads. You can work them free and grease them, or replace just the slides on the calipers, but often to just replace the complete caliper (AND the mounting bolts), although more expensive, is more likely to be less headache (and safer) in the end.
#139 of 199 Squealing/chirping noise by Bloozester Apr 15, 2009 (4:11 pm)
A while back I posted that I was getting a squealing/chirping noise on my '02 1500 4x4. I figured it was the brake pad squealer as I just bought the truck in December. Took all the wheels off today finally, and all the pads are worn evenly and still have about 3/8" left. So the pads aren't worn down. The chirping is speed dependent and never turns into a continous squeal up to about 45 mph, which is where I can't hear it anymore. If I'm going 25-30mph and it's chirping, if I put on the brakes lightly it seems to go away (although it's replaced by brake squeal). I tried shooting brake cleaner on all the pads/rotors today and this made no difference but to quiet the brake squeal down some. My Dad rodei n the back and hung over the rear wheels and said it sounded the same from both sides. The front wheels seemed tight, there was a little play in the rear wheels, but you had to really hoss on the wheel to feel it. Any suggestions onwhere to look next? Replies to this message: Bloozester (Apr 20, 2009 7:35 am)
#140 of 199 Re: Squealing/chirping noise [Bloozester] by Bloozester Apr 20, 2009 (7:35 am)
Replying to: Bloozester (Apr 15, 2009 4:11 pm) Had to take the truck out of state for several days and on the drive back the squeaking got worse. Took it to a shop this morning and they said the rear axle is slightly bent causing the hub to wobble and the brake pads to hit and squeak. Great.....$540 + tax.
#141 of 199 Truck Still Pulsates after Turning Rotors / Changing Pads by blueminivan21 May 28, 2009 (6:23 pm)
Just turned the rotors and changed my brake pads....Car pulsates now really bad when braking. Did not even do that before I changed them? Help? Replies to this message: obyone (May 29, 2009 5:43 am) akjbmw (May 30, 2009 12:13 am) barnowl3 (May 30, 2009 6:17 am) brakelab (Jun 01, 2009 6:55 am)
#142 of 199 Re: Truck Still Pulsates after Turning Rotors / Changing Pads [blueminivan21] by obyone May 29, 2009 (5:43 am)
Replying to: blueminivan21 (May 28, 2009 6:23 pm) Sounds like your rotor(s) have warped. Who turned the rotors?
#143 of 199 Re: Truck Still Pulsates after Turning Rotors / Changing Pads [blueminivan21] by akjbmw May 30, 2009 (12:13 am)
Replying to: blueminivan21 (May 28, 2009 6:23 pm) The last time I had rotors turned, the shop made them worse. Because it was just before a long trip, it ended up costing the additional replacement of the unit the brake pads are mounted on due to the vibration. I then bought heavy duty rotors and replaced less often. Less stress. Replacement rotor cost may come into play when it happens on my current "new-to-me" 2500HD. Bigger usually costs more.
#144 of 199 Re: Truck Still Pulsates after Turning Rotors / Changing Pads [blueminivan2 by barnowl3 May 30, 2009 (6:17 am)
Replying to: blueminivan21 (May 28, 2009 6:23 pm) I was able to replace my front rotors on my 2500HD for about $45 each. Bought them from my local quality parts shop. They were probably still imports, but I can trust these guys to carry good parts. I have not had any problems for a year now ( towing, plowing, hauling). Just watch some of the chain stores that may carry inferior parts.
#145 of 199 Re: '01 Silverado 1500 emergency brake issue [jgriffith] by gmmaster May 30, 2009 (7:34 pm)
Replying to: jgriffith (Oct 05, 2006 10:35 am) NO, your GM tech did not have to remove the park brake shoes to service the rotors and drums. The idiot that said yes, because they touch the rotors, is a buffoon. Well so do the rims and tires, no relation in the big picture. As a GM tech, the poor bastard was probably fighting scale/rust buildup inside the rotor where dust and moisture accumulate. This creates a deteriorative condition dependant of course on what climate zone you live in, use, non-use , etc, etc. The people here seem to look for someone to hang blame on, mechanics are pirates, GM dealers are scum. GM service managers have bosses, they are called District Service Managers, the DSM is a hitman for GM that ensures no dealers is too "liberal" with warranty. Too many of the same claim as compared to our zone (NE, SE, SW, Mid-west, etc), the dealer gets charged back with "ALL" the cost, some dealers have to write a check for $500K if the DSM has a bug up his pooper about something that caught his/her attention. This is why some dealers are skimpy on warranty. Your "babied, loved, pampered, garage kept jewel, hand built by angels just for you", may be just that. This unfortunately is offset by the guy that claims the same thing, but brake torques his Silverado for his buddies at the fishing camp and screwed GM for 1500 dollars in repairs because he is a whiney bastard or is friends with someone. A repeat problem fix, because you live in the rust belt say PA ... happens to be in the same zone as Virginia which uses less salt due to climate. The guy in Raleigh and the guy in Pittsburg have 2 different score sheets on rotor rusting. The DSM will be climbing on the guy in PA for his excessive brake warranty as compared to zone. I have been doing this with GM for 30 years, this is the skinny on warranty. Trust me when I tell you if a dealer "can" provide warranty, he gets paid, the tech gets paid, it's all good. If the dealer thinks it's marginal, like 27K, you will be buying pads. GM says 12K max for free pad replacement, period. The rotors are another issue, but again at 27K, it's iffy. The dealer is rolling the dice on your loyalty versus your needs. If you get your vehicle serviced at the dealer regularly (even without purchase at that store) and you have a marginal issue, the dealer can "goodwill" at discretion. If you bought there and the deal was kosher, you will get warranty, if you bought out of state for a savings and do your own oil changes, don't ask the dealer to hug you because of your "loyalty", it certainly isn't to the dealer you are crying to. Dealers aren't out to screw you, warranty is income, income is king at "any" for-profit business. Do you think if we can get your business without you paying is a bad deal for us, you are wrong. I advise every friend and family member to buy as much extended warranty as possible, for your best interest. Car repairs are far from cheap and door rates almost always exceed $100.00 an hour across the country. Back to your rear park brake shoes after that venture to the soap box. Probably after wrestling the rotors off the hub, the scale build-up in side the drum (which happens in Florida, Cali, Washington State, NY and every state in between for one reason or another) it may have broken the glue bond that hold the friction lining to the actual shoe. The tech may or may not have noticed this. Some techs admittedly, when getting considerably less pay for warranty, do less, because you have warranty, bring it back for the next issue, when he/she will get paid to fix that new problem. The tech will not get paid to replace the rotor damaged park brake show without the following: Stopping to get extra time approval, manager signature, manager sign in for extra time, sometimes a call to the DSM first, parts request issue, pick up the new part from Parts Department, install new park brake shoes and THEN, can continue with work he/she is being paid warranty time for...OR, let you take it, come back with a new noise and get paid Diag time by warranty, re and re of the rotors and pads, then get paid to replace the shoes, etc. Do you get it? Rotors and pads on a truck like yours pay .6 of an hour or 36 minutes. We have to find your vehicle on the lot, test drive, bring into the shop and put on the lift, pull the wheels and inspect before we can begin the repairs. This is followed by a parts request, parts aquisition then the repairs, just how much of the 36 minutes do you think is used up in the preliminary procedure? Now you want the tech to fix something else for free. He/she is not inept, but trying to make a living on the rules imposed by warranty. We get paid next to nothing for warranty time, so "extras" are not often a first priority inless it is a critical safety issue. Use your warranty and thank you dealer for what you get. Think of it as free health care for your car. I hope this quick statement ) helped resolve your issue on your visit to the mechanic and your brake problem. I must admit, you disclosed only going to"your mechanic", but didn't mention if it was at a dealership for warranty or not, so I filled in the blanks as warranty. My mini bio on warranty brakes should help others with insight I hope. PS, if you paid out of pocket for brake repairs and the company had an issue and didn't call you while your brakes werw apart on the hoist, I'd look for a new mechanic. Nobody likes a followup call, but a head's up a problem has developed during the repair and it is minimal to correct at this time is far better than letting your car roll and have you come back a second time, bad ju-ju for an independant shop. Further to this, if I spot something as a GM tech I can't fix today, I tell the consumer to expect this noise or light, etc and call in as soon as it happens, in the mean time I will order the part so you are incovenienced as little as possible. That way we ALL work the warranty. Thanks for your time Replies to this message: barnowl3 (Jun 05, 2009 6:11 pm) obyone (Jun 05, 2009 10:28 pm)

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