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Toyota 4Runner: Ignition Systems

12 messages,  Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 11:18 PM

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#3 of 12 95 Toyota pick-up ignition problems, I think. by wdp Jul 02, 2006 (12:19 pm)
I have a 95 Toyota pick-up, 4x4, 3.0L V6, 5-sp. Lately, the engine has been running roughly and occasionally it will not start in the morning. For instance, this morning it started up at first but was idling very rough on the verge of stalling. It seemed to run fine parked when I revved it up to about 3000 rpm but would be rough at idle. It eventually stalled and would not start again. It would turn over and would try to start for about 1-2 seconds but would stall again. After leaving it sit for about an hour it started fine but still runs rough. The on-board diagnostic system is returning code 14 (ignition signal), code 25 (A/F ratio lean signal from O2 sensor) and code 26 (A/F ratio rich from O2 sensor). The plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button and oxygen sensor have all been replaced recently. Any suggestions? Replies to this message: bobgordon (Jul 02, 2006 3:19 pm) biglatka (Jul 03, 2006 9:49 am) wdp (Jul 03, 2006 10:58 am) cleahy (Nov 27, 2009 11:18 pm)
#4 of 12 Re: 95 Toyota pick-up ignition problems, I think. [wdp] by bobgordon Jul 02, 2006 (3:19 pm)
Replying to: wdp (Jul 02, 2006 12:19 pm) Hope this helps you: First of all I'd suggest cleaning the MAS. (Mass Air Flow Sensor) This is a sensor located in the flex air intake hose. Now a word of CAUTION! This is a delicate sensor. It has fine wires inside, picture a screen on your house windows and 1 or 2 fine wire sensors. DO NOT clean these sensors with brake cleaner, carb cleaner or alcohol! You can pick up some electrical contact cleaner which is suitable for this job at a local auto parts store. Spray the wire area well and allow it to air dry before you re-assemble it. Air dry is another important thing to remember, you really don't want to touch the inside of the sensor!   While you have the air intake hose off, take some carb cleaner and soak the throttle plate. Let it sit a bit and then open the throttle plate and wipe out the disolved residue with a clean shop rag. Using the rag, spray some carb cleaner on it and finish wiping the throttle plate and adjoining area till it's clean. Of course you do the above with the engine off!   These are some very inexpensive fixes that should be done every couple years depending on the mileage you put on. They will cure a lot of drivability problems...and possibly the problems you have except for the ignition signal. You'll have to see if that code clears itself after you do the above.   Good luck to you! Replies to this message: biglatka (Jul 03, 2006 9:49 am) wdp (Jul 03, 2006 10:58 am) cleahy (Nov 27, 2009 11:18 pm)
#5 of 12 to bobgordon by rcob Jul 02, 2006 (4:47 pm)
The info you provided for WDP, I think will help me out as well. THe few things I didn't think of!  Thanks, rcob
#6 of 12 Re: 95 Toyota pick-up ignition problems, I think. [bobgordon] by biglatka Jul 03, 2006 (9:49 am)
Replying to: bobgordon (Jul 02, 2006 3:19 pm) Thanks bobgordon for the excellent instructions on cleaning the MAS.
#7 of 12 Re: 95 Toyota pick-up ignition problems, I think. [bobgordon] by wdp Jul 03, 2006 (10:58 am)
Replying to: bobgordon (Jul 02, 2006 3:19 pm) Thanks for the advice. The air flow meter on my truck (3VZ-E engine) is the vane type air flow meter so it does not have the fine wire screen that you referred to. It looks clean to me and seems to be operating fine. This morning when I started the truck, it started right up but would only stay running while revving at about 2500-3000 rpm. Once I let off, it slowed to idle and would stall. Only after about 30 minutes of this would it eventually idle on its own but very rough and at about 1200. I think I read somewhere that 800 is the idel rpm. It is later in the day now and it seems to start and run fine with an idle about 800 but still very rough. I sprayed all the ignition wires and distributor cap, etc with fine spray of water and could not make it stall or even slow any so that all seems to be OK. It is still returning the same codes though (14, 25 and 26). I am not sure what to do next.
#8 of 12 Mass Air Flow Sensor by cshill Aug 28, 2006 (12:43 pm)
I had my oil changed last month and the during the process of changing the oil the company spilled oil on the engine and used a hose to wash off the oil. When I got the car back the engine was very sluggish and had very little power. It was determined that water had gotten into the engine through the air intake. Within an hour of this occurring the check engine light came on so I had it check and was told that the Mass Air Flow Sensor was burned out. Since the engine was struggling so hard to run due to the water, could this have caused the sensor burn out?   Thanks
#9 of 12 start and die by sunday420 Jun 22, 2007 (2:45 am)
I have a 2000 4runner limited with 90k miles. Runs great accept for it rarely starts then dies. Engine ingages and dies. If I hold the gas it stays started but lacks power. It had this problem twice before but started after a few minutes and ran fine. I cannot put into gear cause it dies when i let off the gas. help
#10 of 12 2007 4 runner by drcarla Feb 05, 2009 (1:02 pm)
I have a 2007 4 runner. After shutting the vehicle off and letting it sit for a few minutes, when I try and start it, it cranks over and over without starting. When I turn it off and start again, it works. I only have 11,000 miles on it and it is still under warantee.    Any ideas? Replies to this message: tidester (Feb 05, 2009 4:11 pm)
#11 of 12 Re: 2007 4 runner [drcarla] by tidester HOST Feb 05, 2009 (4:11 pm)
Replying to: drcarla (Feb 05, 2009 1:02 pm) It could just be a battery problem possibly related to cold weather. Does the problem vary with ambient temperature?   tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper
#12 of 12 Re: 2000 4Runner w/ similar problem by cleahy Nov 27, 2009 (11:18 pm)
Replying to: bobgordon (Jul 02, 2006 3:19 pm) I had the mass flow sensor replaced and the check engine light came back on. My mechanic said that the sensor was actually dirty (he mentioned the K&N may have not been completely dry??), cleaned it and the light stayed off of 4 months. Came on again today, can I clean it myself? I know you responed w/ direction but for a 95 4runner, will the same work for mine? I'd rather not have to go back to the mechanic...Also, should I use a different aircleaner? I heard that one could also cut a large hole in the front of the air cleaner box and block off the elbow to get better airflow, is that true/worth it? Thank you in advance!

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