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Oldsmobile Alero, Engine
#103 of 457 2000 Alero engin shut down on highway
Mar 31, 2008 (2:31 pm)
2000 Oldsmobile Alero V6 cyl 3.4L Two Wheel Drive Automatic 140K miles
Today when I drove on the free way at about 75mph, engine rpm was about 2200rpm. the engine suddenly shut off, at first the engine rpm shaken between 1000-1500 rpm for 1-2 seconds, then shut down to zero.
It happened last Dec. when I drove on the free way, exactly the same way. but after I tried to start several time, about 20 minutes later, it can run and and I drove it well while nothing wrong with it until today.
Today, I tried to start again, it seemed that the ignition worked and engine run to 200-500 rpm, shaken and dropped to zero again. I tried several time. the engine still won't work. I asked AAA to tow it to a local shop, at the first shop( it is a junkyard), one person tried to start( about 1.5 hour later), won't work, he asked me to tow to their another shop. 20 minutes later, we reach another shop. this time the car can start!!(about 2 hours away from the time the engine shut down), amazing!. After diagnosed the car, the mechanics can't tell me the exact problem and his suggestion was to change a crankshaft position sensor.(He though maybe the sensor was over heated and shut down the engine. but after it cooled down, it will not affect the engine). Since I am in a hurry, I declined and paid him the diagnose fee. And drove all the way down home ( another 150 miles), Now it runs like nothing happen.
Btw. the mechanics has read 4 codes from engine which were: 1106,1189,1404 and0420. I knew that 1404 and 0420 were always there, and even 0420 was there for more than one year ( the engine light was on for about 1 year), The men tell me that 1106 and 1189 had also nothing to do with the engine shut down.
any idea? thanks
#104 of 457 Re: 2000 Alero engin shut down on highway [uabusi]
Apr 01, 2008 (5:32 am)
The first place I would look is the fuel pump based on your description of the problem.
#105 of 457 03 Alero won't start when hot, but after dis/re-connect bttry cable, it wor
Apr 09, 2008 (7:20 am)
I previous owned a 86' Cutlass Ciera S Coupe till 01' then I bough this 03 Alero right b4 they went out of business. Used to love it, but now, I hate it so much~~~!
Like everybody else, the car will not start when the temperature is hot, put in new spark plugs, new coil, new fuel filter, no goal.
I notice that if I disconnect the battery cable, and put it back, I can start it right up.
Not sure if it is the PCM computer, or the something else.
I had an after market alarm system, when the car won't start, I could hear the horn chirped and doors unlocked. I thought it must be the alarm, I pulled the fuse to disable the alarm, but still getting the same problem.
Do you guys think that it is the alarm, or it is something else?
#106 of 457 Re: 99 Alero Passlock System-How it Works [went757]
Apr 13, 2008 (8:28 pm)
i have a 2003 alero and it started doing this , come to find out there is a recall on our car, it has something to do with the computer modular reprograming , am taking to dealership in the morning to have it done, wish me luck.
#107 of 457 Re: 99 Alero Passlock System-How it Works [joyce6]
Apr 15, 2008 (9:34 am)
Wow! I would be very interested to learn how that works out for you. I too have a 2003 Alero that has had starting issues recently. I have been amazed in reading all these posts how common this problem is and I felt I needed to contribute my experiences as well. My problem appears to be the sort where it does not start in the afternoon after sitting in the sun. Not that hot in Illinois yet (Maybe 50 degrees) but the sun beating down on it seems to do it. It starts fine in the morning and evenings or when it's cloudy, cool and/or raining. Yesterday I walked out of work at 4:15pm and it took until 5:05pm to get the thing started. Same thing happened last week...same scenario/conditions. Somebody at work came over and suggested the "ACC & wait 15 minutes" trick which was the first I'd heard of that prior to reading all the accounts of it in these threads. My Security light never went out and it had been over 15 min. I tried to start it but no luck. I repeated the process, this time waiting about 20 min, and the light never went out but the car started. Runs fine once started although I was having stall issues in the winter after the car had been running awhile.
With the stalling I suspected some kind of sensor issue where it was getting too warm and killed the engine to prevent overheating. It does seem to be related to the heater/blower some how though. Whenever it seemed like it was going to stall, I'd kill the heater and it would run fine. I tested it by pulling over and parking and let the car idle. It was just fine but withing seconds of turning the heater back on full the car stalled out.
Firestone had recommended having the computer reflashed but when I took it to the local dealer (a Chevy dealer) they didn't seem convinced that would do it...and of course not...they can make so much more money off me by telling me it's this, that and the other thing!! I'm really leaning towards a reflash of the computer unit now. VERY FRUSTRATING as I know you can all relate!!
#108 of 457 Re: 99 Alero Passlock System-How it Works [mudster66]
Apr 15, 2008 (8:06 pm)
i had the recall done and so far working, havent had any trouble with starting in the heat though we live in nc and it get's hot.
i think the pass lock system is in the manual if you have it, but remember the 10-15 minute rule if needed,
also, take car to dealer, or better yet, look up car in oldsmobile.com and check your vin # and see if u have a recall, no cost to you, good luck,
#109 of 457 Re: 99 Alero Passlock System-How it Works [joyce6]
Apr 16, 2008 (10:02 am)
Glad to hear your Alero is running again. I sincerely hope you've seen the last of this problem. As for myself, I'm still having issues. I left work yesterday at 4:30 being almost certain that my car would not start...which it didn't. I felt confident I could get it going though thanks to all the great tips from the other Alero owners that posted on this site (Thank you ALL!). I did the lock/unlock thing using the remote entry as I walked out to my car. I then turned the key to "ON", put the car in neutral, waited a few seconds and then tried to start it. NOPE!! I tried a couple other things but the battery died quite quickly...I'm assuming due to all the failed start attempts over the last couple weeks. While I was waiting for the tow truck I tried turning the key to "ON" (not "ACC") and left it. After several minutes the security light, which had been on solid (not flashing), went out. I suspected it would start with a jump start. When the AAA guy showed up it, sure enough, fired right up! So, just after 6pm, I was on my way home. At least traffic cooperated and I was home in about an hour. I went out to Wal-Mart and picked up a portable jump start battery for $70. It also has a DC outlet for a cell phone car charger (because my cell phone battery almost died on me too) as well as an air compressor. At least I'm set if (and when) this happens again.
The interesting thing (okay, more "frustrating" than "interesting" maybe) is that I took it back to the dealer this morning to inquire about the recall. He brought up the recall list and I had actually had this done already back in May of 2004!! The car had 26,500 miles at that time (has 116,000+ miles now) and the Labor Operation is listed as "Y0002 - POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE - REPROGRAM". Looking back through my records I found that I first had the problem with the no-start issue about 2 yrs after that (in April 2006). At that time I had the Fuel Pump and fuel filter replaced. Total bill that time was over $900. Now here we are almost exactly another 2 years later and I'm having same issue. Hmmm... I asked the dealer to verify that the PCM has the most current version of software on it and, if so, told him to then park my car in the sun all day (supposed to hit 70 here today I think...wooo hooo) and around 4pm try to start it hoping they can re-create the no-start condition and then put a scanner on it to get a diagnostic code (or codes). Failing that (or depending what the diagnostic calls for) I believe my next step is straight back to Car Max to trade it in and get something new(er). I'm thinking Honda or Toyota. Possibly a Saturn because I'd like to stay with American-made and I've heard good things about them but I definitely purchased my last Oldsmobile. It's sad because, aside from this issue, it has been a very good car for me...and it was paid off last December...Ugh!!
Jeff (Bolingbrook, IL).
#110 of 457 Re: 99 Alero Passlock System-How it Works [mudster66]
Apr 16, 2008 (11:46 am)
"I tried a couple other things but the battery died quite quickly"
Are you sure your battery is not weak? It shouldn't go down "quite quickly". A weak battery in todays cars with dozens of processors can manifest itself in many ways. Even if you had starting problems before it sounds like your commute is more than adequate to charge up a low battery that is otherwise in good condition, so barring a charging system problem then your battery shouldn't be weak.
#111 of 457 Re: 99 Alero Passlock System-How it Works [burdawg]
Apr 16, 2008 (1:07 pm)
I'm certainly not ruling out a possible bad battery and/or charging system and yes, my commute (which usually runs anywhere between 1 and 1.5 hrs each way) should be sufficient to charge the battery. Would that lend itself to the no-start issue though? It certainly sounded like a healthy battery Monday night when I was trying to get it started and it also started with no problem this morning when I drove it to the dealer. Back in January I was having trouble with the stalling issue. I was in bumper-to-bumper traffic doing the old switch between neutral and drive, braking with the left foot and gas with the right. It stalled on me a few times and on the third time there was not enough juice left to turn it over (not fun). When the officer showed up he was nice enough to push me out of traffic with his squad car while I waited for my wife to show up and jump start me. I was thinking at that time I would need a new battery but when my car was in being serviced I was told the battery and alternator checked out fine.
To add to this whole scenario now, I just got a call back from the dealership. They were able to re-create the no-start scenario but it didn't log any codes when they hooked it up to the scanner. Then the battery died on them too while they were testing it out. They put a charger on it and it started right up. So maybe it is something with the electrical?? I'm about ready to punt at this point. There were a couple things he told me they could check for relatively easily, one being the ignition switch and the other I was some connector under the hood but I can't remember what he called it. If those checks reveal nothing I am unloading this car as soon as possible. This has just been insane!!
#112 of 457 Re: 99 Alero Passlock System-How it Works [mudster66]
Apr 23, 2008 (8:20 am)
My DAMN car is the same thing, won't start in the afternoon, but in the morning or evening.
The PCM box is what I suspected went bad.
It is under neat the passenger side glove box right next to the heater duct vent.
What a great idea to put your computer box next to the heater (it could be AC during summer time) vent?~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Next time if your car won't start, try disconnect the negative cable for 10 seconds and put it back, for me it starts right up.
Let me know, since GM won't help us, I guess we have to help each other who bough