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Chevrolet Cavalier: Head Gasket Issues

58 messages,  Last post on Oct 09, 2009 at 7:36 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Cavalier, Engine, Sedan

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#28 of 58 Re: Head Gasket problems..... [pat] by hoodlatch Oct 08, 2006 (4:38 pm)
Replying to: pat (Jun 22, 2005 9:51 am) Pat, I would like to talk about 2.2L Corsica but no format exist on this web site. Do you have any solution? Thanx
#29 of 58 Re: Head Gasket problems..... [mandi77] by hoodlatch Oct 08, 2006 (4:45 pm)
Replying to: mandi77 (Jun 21, 2005 11:01 am) We've had the same problems with the same engine in a 95 Corsica. The head gasket has been replaced more time than I can remember. Currently its working on engine number three, that I know of. When its running like it should, it runs great.
#30 of 58 Re: Head Replacement [valvex] by joe471 Feb 06, 2007 (2:02 pm)
Replying to: valvex (Jun 28, 2006 5:18 pm) I have a 98 cavalier w/86,000 miles. It blew a head gasket and leaks at the water pump.Repair shop quoted me 1200$.Is it worth fixing and/or is this a fair repair price? Replies to this message: gonogo (Feb 07, 2007 8:51 am)
#31 of 58 2.2 or 2.4? by joe471 Feb 06, 2007 (2:27 pm)
Does the 2.2 or 2.4 98 chevy cavalier have the oil dipstick on the front of the engine w/the dip stick on it? Replies to this message: gonogo (Feb 07, 2007 8:49 am)
#32 of 58 Re: 2.2 or 2.4? [joe471] by gonogo Feb 07, 2007 (8:49 am)
Replying to: joe471 (Feb 06, 2007 2:27 pm) 2.2 has the oil fill and combined dip stick in the front. 2.4 oil fill is at the back left side, oil dip stick back of engine right of center.
#33 of 58 Re: Head Replacement [joe471] by gonogo Feb 07, 2007 (8:51 am)
Replying to: joe471 (Feb 06, 2007 2:02 pm) Fair price for a 2.4, high for a 2.2.
#34 of 58 Changing gasket on head cover by patton1 May 04, 2007 (1:47 am)
#35 of 58 Changing gasket on head cover by patton1 May 04, 2007 (1:47 am)
I am a neophyte with 6 thumbs and have absolutely zip on the mechanical aptitude scale. However, my budget is tighter than a duck's behind so I need to start doing some of the less technical skilled repairs on my own. Would attempting to change the gasket on the head cover be pushing it or shoule I take it to Mr. Goodyear and hand over my wallet? Replies to this message: jpf (May 10, 2007 6:53 pm) cav_rider666 (Aug 12, 2007 11:44 am)
#36 of 58 Re: Changing gasket on head cover [patton1] by jpf May 10, 2007 (6:53 pm)
Replying to: patton1 (May 04, 2007 1:47 am) You probably want a good mechanic to do this job. Important things to consider when replacing a head gasket: make sure surfaces are clean on block and cylinder head; replace head bolts as well as they tend to warp; use a torque wrench and torque to specs. I am not a mechanic but I had a 95 Corsica with the 2.2 engine and all of these things were not done when the head gasket was replaced the first time. If the job is not done right you will have the same problem within 20K to 30K. Good luck.
#37 of 58 Re: Changing gasket on head cover [patton1] by cav_rider666 Aug 12, 2007 (11:44 am)
Replying to: patton1 (May 04, 2007 1:47 am) First of all do you have the 2.2L OHV engine or the 2.4L OHC engine? Because if you have the 2.2L OHV engine you can definetly do the job yourself!   Lets begin (assuming it is the 2.2 OHV); before starting make sure you have the fallowing; new gasket, sealant, torque wrench ( can be rented if needed), assorted metric and SAE sockets and wrenchs,plyers and .   Wait for the ENGINE to be COMPLETLY COOL OR MANY THINGS COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG INCLUDING NASTY BURNS!!!! First begin by removing the resonator ( black plastic thing over the throttle body). To do so you'll need nice a 10mm socket and ratchet. Unbolt the resonator mounting bolt using the 10mm socket. Once this is done you can remove the resonator by GENTLY lifting it from the throtle body.   Once the resonator is removed, you will need to remove a "metal sheild" that protects the fuel rail. To remove this you will need a 13mm wrench (size maybe abit off, if it is simply trial and error until you find the proper side). There are two (2) bolts ontop of "the sheild" and three (3) located on the rear. Once thats out of the way your ready to begin unbolting the valve cover.   To unbolt the valve cover you'll need to use the 10mm ratchet and socket used earlier for the resonator. There a total of six (6) bolts to unbolt. If the bolts are rusted or seized up, use penetrating fluid (WD-40, Engine Oil) to loosen the rust. Once the bolts have been removed, your ready to lift of the valve cover. Place the cover and cover bolts in a safe location and be carful not to lose any bolts. If the valve cover is stuck, use a block of and a mallet to tap off the cover.   Once the cover is off, remove the old gasket from the cover and remove all traces of old gasket and sealent from the mating surface. To remove the old sealant use a shop rag soaked in Kerosen. MAKE SURE YOU STORE THE USED RAGS SAFLEY!!!! Once that is done, install apply some RTV sealant to valve cover and install the gasket on the cover. When this is done, put the cover back on. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT ALL TRACES OF THE OLD GASKET HAVE BEEN REMOVED OR AN OIL LEAK CAN/WILL OCCUR!!!!   Using the torque wrench install the valve cover bolts to Chevrolet's torque specifications. Install the fuel rail protective sheild and the resonator and you are done! I also strongly suggest that you pick up a Haynes repair manual (15-20 CDN$). They contain tons of pictures and tips to make the job easier. Have fun and keep that hard earned money! If you have any questions Pep Boys, NAPA, Partsource (if your in Canada) will be glad to provide any advice!

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