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Chrysler Pacifica: Electrical/Lighting Problems

131 messages,  Last post on Mar 17, 2013 at 8:14 PM

You are in the Chrysler Pacifica Maintenance & Repair Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chrysler Pacifica, Lights, Electrical, Wagon

Messages Page 14 of 14

#123 of 131 Re: Pacifica 2007 does not start- ignition or transmission switch problem ? [soh1] by teresa24

Jul 31, 2012 (8:10 pm)

Replying to: soh1 (Jul 29, 2012 9:17 pm)
I have a 2005 Chrysler Pacifica with 169,000 miles on it. I too have had problems like that however now my lights blink rapidly at certain times, my brake light turns on and off at times, car acts like she wants to turn off but dosn;t turn off ...My mechanic stated that it was the electrical harnis that needs to be replaced. So that I am doing next weekend.

#124 of 131 Re: Pacifica Headlight Assembly [carenm] by kjchilando

Dec 17, 2012 (4:05 pm)

Replying to: carenm (Dec 22, 2007 3:45 pm)
My daughters crappy Pacifica blows a headlight every few months. Take the two bolts out of the top and I then take a 2" wide putty knife and shove it in at the bottom where the lower catch is. This usually releases it. Then keeping the lower facia pushed down grab the sides and wiggle it forward. I usually replace a H7 lamp. There are 2 torx screws holding the lamp in, loosen them and twist it slightly and then the lamp plugs in. This is the worst design I have ever worked on. I wouldn't recommend this car to anyone I know. It drives good when it works but everything on it is problematic. We are 2 weeks into a ABS brake problem now.

#125 of 131 Re: Pacifica Headlight Assembly [kjchilando] by meeklo1

Dec 17, 2012 (5:02 pm)

Replying to: kjchilando (Dec 17, 2012 4:05 pm)
Try giving the headlight a firm and stable bunt after removing the two screws up top, and that will work for removing the headlight assembly. As for the bulb, you don't need to loosen the torx screws. Twist the bulbs' metal base so that it slides freely, but remember the direction to loosen and tighten the bulb to the connector. Try using some electrical grease on the bulbs maybe. Hope this helps.

#126 of 131 Re: Pacifica Headlight Assembly [meeklo1] by dsinatore

Dec 17, 2012 (5:19 pm)

Replying to: meeklo1 (Dec 17, 2012 5:02 pm)
Don't have the PAC anymore but when I was changing the headlights every 6 months removing the light assembly became 2nd nature. What did happen then the alternator took out my new battery which was still under warranty. The tech said my alt was not putting out the correct sign wave. The quoted me $400 to replace. I did it for $165 and never had to change a headlight again. Only 2 more years but with the old alt that would have been 6 pairs.

#127 of 131 Re: Pacifica 2007 does not start- ignition or transmission switch problem ? [soh1] by razorfish6

Feb 22, 2013 (1:41 pm)

Replying to: soh1 (Jul 29, 2012 9:17 pm)
thank you for your post, what was the end result. My Pacifica is having a very similar issue.

#128 of 131 Re: PLEASE HELP!! [uugly] by patrickidol

Feb 28, 2013 (7:21 pm)

Replying to: uugly (Apr 06, 2012 1:03 am)
Hope this works it did for mine..try replacing the battery cable and connectors that go from battery to fuse box under the hood, the proper name for the fuse box is "integrated power control module" this can be stupid expensive for the module, like $1200-$1800 which is just the dealers way of ripping you.. You can not just go get one from a junk yard they are vin number specific but if you luck up you can get one for about $100 but its really hard part to find.. so back to the power wire that runs from battery to fuse box, they can be bought at any local parts store for under $20, have a mechanic do it if you are not sure what to do cause you will be messing with the $1200-$1800 part and if you screw it up you will not be able to get one very fast or cheap unless you are just super lucky.. but the symptoms in our car that it fixed was the flashing dash lights, the radio flickering, the car suddenly stalling, and the very heated battery, which could also lead to battery drained when you wake up.. hope this helps, it was a long process to figure it out but I am pretty sure the red power wire being replaced did it.

#129 of 131 Re: Key won't go to LOCK [nharfert] by patrickidol

Feb 28, 2013 (7:23 pm)

Replying to: nharfert (Aug 04, 2006 1:30 pm)
Hope this works it did for mine..try replacing the battery cable and connectors that go from battery to fuse box under the hood, the proper name for the fuse box is "integrated power control module" this can be stupid expensive for the module, like $1200-$1800 which is just the dealers way of ripping you.. You can not just go get one from a junk yard they are vin number specific but if you luck up you can get one for about $100 but its really hard part to find.. so back to the power wire that runs from battery to fuse box, they can be bought at any local parts store for under $20, have a mechanic do it if you are not sure what to do cause you will be messing with the $1200-$1800 part and if you screw it up you will not be able to get one very fast or cheap unless you are just super lucky.. but the symptoms in our car that it fixed was the flashing dash lights, the radio flickering, the car suddenly stalling, and the very heated battery, which could also lead to battery drained when you wake up.. hope this helps, it was a long process to figure it out but I am pretty sure the red power wire being replaced did it.

#130 of 131 Electrical fix to what seems like Integrated power control module 2005 by patrickidol

Feb 28, 2013 (7:33 pm)

Red power wire from Integrated power control or aka "under the hood fuse box" to the battery, lol.. spent tons of money trying to fix a $15 problem, I have replaced the power control module to the tune of $1400 didn't do a thing.. replaced fuses.. nada.. but a red wire that costs less than $20 fixed it, at this point I changed terminal couplers for the battery connecters, and it drives like a dream.. I hope this helps everyone and takes money and puts it back into your pockets..I am a big advocate of trying the cheap fix first, never spend more before you have to.. my total to come to this conclusion cost almost $2200 which is 1000 times more than it should have..
 
symptoms: flickering head lights, flickering dash, flickering ABS light, Flickering check engine light, stalling, poor gas mileage, poor take off, poor battery life, battery dead in the morning, radio flickering and poping and crackling sounds..

#131 of 131 help my life is in danger by goodernest

Mar 17, 2013 (8:14 pm)

please someone help me now my cousins car quit working when i was in it with the lights on
an o4 crystler pasifica i had the over heds on and was taking it apart a little bit i was trying to take apart the center councel and i put the key in and on and pressed the brake to so i could shift it i had the ( parking brake ) aplied so it wont role and then the lights started dimming and blinking and the dash bord went crazy and just started beeping kinda and i aint ben able to get it started yet and i dont think the battery went ded that quickly and o please help

Messages Page 14 of 14

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