Last post on Dec 08, 2013 at 11:55 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
#411 of 497 Re: 2001 Chevy Blazer dies on hot days [dgarrett13]
Aug 22, 2011 (1:32 am)
Well, to be honest, i changed the coil pack and module.
No differance, and shortly after changing the cap and rotor, it would not start.
So, after all of the other changes, a guy at checker said that the cam shaft sensors are terrible in all 4 and 6 banger gm's.
I never changed that....yet.
I then decided to check gas pressure, i can hear the pump charge sometimes, but not all.
So i figure its the fuel pump.
If i change the fuel pump, and it still doesn't run or start, i'm giving up and selling as a parts car. I've just had it with GM-Chevy.
At this point, i'm already saying-"Never again in my life will i spend another dime on GM-Government Motors.
Next truck will definitely be a ford f350.
I'm tired of dealing with garbage.
This Blazer ZR2 hasn't even hit 10 years, and it just hit 121,000 miles and has been babied.
My 88 s10 was built like a tank when compared to this piece of junk.
I even beat the hell out of it as if was my first 4x4.
The $40.00 fuel pump made it to 164,000 miles.
This $400.00 fuel pump, original, didn't make it to 120,000.
GM should be JM and stand for Junk Motors, as far as i am concerned!
But, never again.
FORD, here i come!
Sep 01, 2011 (8:27 am)
i am having the same issue with it starting and i can drive it but when i stop it stalls but i can start it right up if i put my foot on the gas pedal just a little bit.. but i really have to gun it to keep it started. but when i drive it and stop or even slow down to turn a corner the dang thing just stops.. i have never had this much problems with a truck or even a car in my life.. my blazer is at 189,000 miles on it and i have gone threw 3 fuel pumps.. but the first two times it never acted like it is this time.. but the first two was not cheap fuel pump this last one was.. it wouldnt such a headache if i had a great job and can afford to replace this crap ever 6 to 10 months..i really hate cheves now.. and i have replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap.. because that was one code that keep coming up. and now after that the other code that came up was my map but took that off to see if it was dirty or even clogged and it looks like its new.. and i have checked to make sure the wires on it was not broke or damaged and they look fine.. so i am starting to give up but cant right yet because cant afford a new damn car.. grrrrrrrrr
#413 of 497 Re: 1998 cheve 4x4 blazer [meandmyself34]
Sep 01, 2011 (10:18 am)
Mine ended up being the idle air control valve. It was covered with sooty carbon. Also, after changing it, the blazer ran better but would stall maybe once a day (instead of every time I slowed down). I had to take it in to have the throttle body cleaned. I just got it back and it seems to be running ok, I just hope it continues to run ok.
#414 of 497 Re: 1998 cheve 4x4 blazer [dgarrett13]
Sep 02, 2011 (5:58 pm)
Well, not only was it the IAC valve, but it appears the alternator is not fully charging under a heavy load.I get one thing fixed and another thing goes out!!! I hope you figure yours out and I hope you can get it fixed.
#416 of 497 01 Blazer stalls and jerks when air conditioner is on
Jul 09, 2007 (10:03 am)
I have a unique problem my 01 S10 Blazer with 113,000 + miles, 6 cylinder. Last year during 90 degree heat my Blazer stalled on me for the first time, it started right back up and we didnít give it a second though. While I was driving down the road it started to chug while getting up to speed and the bumper to bumper expressway traffic didnít help this situation at all. After traveling around 100 miles I could barely get the vehicle past 30 mpg so we pulled it in to a gas station where my husband thought it was either water in the gas tank or a bad fuel pump. Vehicle sat while he went in search of a fuel pump. Friend advised that the same thing happened to him down south and that it was the air conditioner that caused our problems. He told us to disconnect the battery wait 3 minutes reconnect the battery and the computer would reset itself to get us home, and to not run the air conditioner. He advised that we needed to change the O2 sensors and some other things and that would fix the problem. It did, and while I work at GM and have engineers at my disposal they all thought I was crazy and said my air conditioner would not have caused this problem.
Well it happened again yesterday 95+ out side, we had air conditioner on and in stop and go traffic it started to chug and stall. My husband disconnected the battery and we waited but it did not fix the problem. We chugged so much it disconnected the battery and everything went dead. We were able to pull over and try this procedure all over again and it worked this time. We waited longer and it seems to me the vehicle sat for some time before we did it the first time last year. Anyway it still stalled at every light or stop sign so I kept having to put it in to neutral and revved the engine a little to stop the stalling, but we made it home.
Today it is fine, although it did give me a little hard time starting and I did not run the air conditioner. Basically when this happens tack bounces all over the place, and vehicle stalls when stopping. If vehicle had a carburetor I would tell you the choke was stuck open or closed. My husband is wondering if it is a vapor lock but why would just the air conditioner cause this. I can tell you it does not happen unless it is above 80 and the air is on. Any ideaís as to what is causing this?
#417 of 497 Re: 01 Blazer stalls and jerks when air conditioner is on [nmuriel]
Jul 10, 2007 (5:10 pm)
Computer tells the idle air control (IAC) valve on the throttle body to step idle up when AC on but if you turn AC off does the idle stablize - if so could be it and the port behind the IAC does get dirty and the IAC is about $75 for the part and I've had them fail intermittently even with AC off and when vehicle goes to idle just stalls and can be restrted, thats usually IAC, but ignition such as cap/rotor/plugs/wires etc needed by 100k. Now could be many other things as temp must be running about 200 or lower or cooling system problem, good fuel pressure tested at the fusl rail, clen fuel filter, air filter, and of course no codes or SES light on.
#418 of 497 Re: 01 Blazer stalls and jerks when air conditioner is on [repairdog]
Jul 11, 2007 (8:23 am)
No when you shut AC off vehicle starts to chug tack bounces all over the place while you are trying to get up to speed and after awhile the vehicle the vehicle will not maintain the speed.
From another persons point of view it probably looks like I am using a clutch and keep popping the clutch because the car jerks wildly while trying to get it up to speed.
My husband said we had to replace the map sensor as well as both O2 sensors the first time.
Why does the combination of extremely hot day and air conditioner cause this issue.
PS: Had check engine light on for long time, it went off now. Go figure. I am just going to by a horse and be done with it.
#419 of 497 Re: 01 Blazer stalls and jerks when air conditioner is on [nmuriel]
Jul 16, 2007 (5:36 am)
I had the same issue with my 01 Blazer and it was the distributor cap and rotor. My truck only had 56K miles but the rotor looked like it had 150K when I opened it up. Itís worth looking at. So much for quality GM parts.
#420 of 497 01 Blazer stalls and jerks when air conditioner is on [nmuriel
May 11, 2008 (4:12 pm)
I have the same problem and still to this day. What is causing your BIZ to jerk is the heat control sensor indicator located in the transmission. A very expensive sensor. You see when you have the AC on, the blazer motor is running much hotter than before. The radiator cannot cool the motor and transmission down ( the radiator cannot carry the load). To me this is a missed calculation on GM part. The transmission cannot cool down fast enough and the fluid breaks down causing it to be very thin. The sensor which control the modulator (it is slipping) in transmission is causing the kicks. My transmission technician advise me that I will need to get a new transmission. I said no but just to change the transmission fluid to a new batch. The new fresh fluid does not break down so easy to heat and fixed the problem. It cost me $60 to flush the transmission fluid. I now change my fluid ever 15k miles. Also, when you first experience the first kick, cut off the AC and allow the engine to cool to it normal reading. You can continue to drive though. It will take at least 30 to 45 minutes to cool down but it will cool down. Notice how high the temperature gauge is reading when it is 90 degrees outside and you have your AC on verses when you do not. Good luck!