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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

486 messages,  Last post on May 06, 2013 at 7:36 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV

Messages Page 41 of 49

#399 of 486 Re: 98 Blazer Stalling issue [fireguy102] by maxisp2000

Jun 24, 2011 (12:12 pm)

Replying to: fireguy102 (Jun 02, 2011 8:05 am)
1996 Chevy S10 Blazer 4X4
 
First of all I am not a mechanic, so I hope I can help.
 
This is what I think about the hot stalling problem. If you have checked fuel pressure and it's good, the fuel pump is probably OK. Then check the fuel pump relay, when you turn the key to "on" not start, the fuel pump will run for a couple of seconds. Someone else might have to turn the key to hear it. My intake manifold popped so I had to take off the whole top of the engine. While there I replaced the fuel regulator under the intake manifold plenum.
 
Last year when this started, I was driving on the first hot day and the car wouldn’t start at the store. So I got a rag and wet it and cooled down the ICM. The car started, so I bought a replacement. After the ICM replacement I was able to drive to Tucson and back during 110° days both ways.
 
The after I got home, it would not start again after going to the store. I got stuck and had to be towed home, where it started fine again.
 
So this year after the car stalled so I did this:
I got an old scrap heat sink from something. I trimmed it to the same size as the original. Using the original holes as a template I drilled matching holes in the scrap heat sink. Using new long bolts and nuts I assembled ICM/silver paste/stock heat sink facing out/silver paste/scrap heat sink facing out the other way/U bracket.
 
Using a piece of aluminum sheet, I made a "serif" U bracket that matched the coil mount bracket and mounted the assembly on the old bracket. The silver paste is used to thermally connect a CPU or chip to a heat sink.
I have a thought about hot fuel.
 
The fuel runs on a loop from the tank to the injector, demand opens the fuel regulator, and unused fuel goes back into the tank.
 
I bought a scan tool that connects to my laptop and watched it while driving around. On an 80° day the intake air temp was 185°!!! The tool only went to 140°.
 
So I checked the airbox, under the air filter. The snoot coming out of there was not getting any fresh air, it was only ½ from the front wall with no vent holes, so I removed the snoot. The temperature dropped to 100° and the car has not failed since on three 110° days. I did not modify the airbox. I also keep the tank mostly full to cool the fuel pump (that’s why it’s in the tank).
 
**So I thought that the fuel in the tank was getting heated by the engine, returned hot fuel right next to the fuel pump causing the pump to go too low (overheating). The hot air caused a super vapor lock. So I put a fiberglass shield under the fuel line on the engine.**
 
Car starts now.

#400 of 486 Re: jimmy stalls after starting [tim6261] by elchaid

Jul 03, 2011 (8:41 pm)

Replying to: tim6261 (Apr 30, 2008 6:17 pm)
Hi,i think your problem lies inside your engine, more specificly, your fuel pressure regulator, and or spider,(fuel injectors).,They re inside the intake manifold.

#401 of 486 Re: 2001 Chevy Blazer dies on hot days [struggling3] by cspeaks

Jul 06, 2011 (9:01 pm)

Replying to: struggling3 (Jun 11, 2008 1:11 pm)
I have a 2001 chevy Blazer. I have the exact same problems. When it is hot outside, like it is now, the car will run fine until you come to a light or stop.
Then it will stall and stop. You then have to put it in park and restart it. It will run a few feet and stall again. You have to pull over and let the car sit untill it cools off. This happened to me 3 times today. I just had the radiator replaced as well, because it suddenly started running hot and and the radiator had a crack in it. Also the abs and brake lights will come on and the fuel gauge will read wrong.
One minute it says it has half a tank and minutes later it reads empty. You have to just know how much gas you have put in. This is VERY frustrating and it appears there is no sure answer. This car is terrible

#402 of 486 ICM by duntov

Jul 07, 2011 (5:10 am)

A failing Ignition Control Module (ICM) in the distributor can have the exact symptoms. A cheap or defective ICM can fail when it gets hot and then it will start normally when it cools. I suggest that you replace the ICM with a new AC Delco ICM or a Standard Motor Products ICM and use Arctic Silver #5 heat sink compound rather than the high temperature silicone grease that comes with the modules. AC Delco (GM) and SMP are the most dependable ICM and they are also the most expensive....go figure. Due to the bankruptcy, GM spun off their AC Delco Parts Division and now I am becoming wary of using any ACDelco products..
 
Unfortunately, the 1987 - 2002 S10/S15 trucks and Blazers are delicate and are "high maintenance" vehicles. They do not respond well to most cheap off-shore replacement parts. However, I installed Denso TT double platinum spark plugs in my 1991 S10 Blazer. The Denso spark plugs are made in Japan and IMO, are much better than the ACDelco Rapid Fire single platinum spark plugs that are made in Mexico and Denso TT spark plugs cost half as much as AC Delco Rapid Fire spark plugs. The new ACDelco Rapid Fire spark plugs have recently been redesigned and now appear to be a two dollar spark plug in a three dollar box.
 
The logo has been changed from AC Delco owned by GM to ACDelco, owned by whoever, with no space between the AC and Delco.

#403 of 486 Never Again Will I GM by s10junkowner

Jul 31, 2011 (12:13 am)

My 1988 s10 blazer did exactly this, Stall, cool down, and start back up.
I tried everything, even the fuel pump. Still wasn't a fix, traded it in for another 1998 s10 blazer.
Then about in 2004 I bought a 2002 ZR2 blazer and what takes place at 118K?
$500.00 Fuel Pump!
I had it replaced, and then only at 123k, This stalling issue arises.
What do ya know?!?!
I'm back to the 1988 Blazer issue. Wow! It seems that GM and Chevrolet haven't fixed this issue. Hmm, I wonder why? Maybe because they seen this "issue" as a Cash Cow?
I would have to think so. Being that so many of us experience the SAME STALLING for no apparent reason. Hmm, I wonder why they pushed for their "Owner Loyalty" program so much? Do you think that it could be that so many of us are still having 2 and 3 decade old issues with our GM made vehicles, that they would have to get us buying another GM product by giving us a discount?
I would have to say so!
Google yourself this issue with any model year s10 and you'll read the same stalling.
No sure fix yet.
I've been a Chevy man all of my life!
Until Now!
Next vehicle.....FORD!
There is NO Way on this planet that I'll pay for a Hummer H3, which is a FAT ZR2, totally based on the blazer zr2 and for 10k more.
 
Now I understand why GM scrapped the entire s10 line.
And I also understand why such a large company went under.
Way to go GM, Just change the names and keep selling the same cheap products.
Cavalier = Cobalt
Blazer ZR2 = Hummer H3
Blazer LS = HHR
LOL, seriously now!

#404 of 486 Re: 2001 Chevy Blazer dies on hot days [cspeaks] by dgarrett13

Aug 12, 2011 (8:15 pm)

Replying to: cspeaks (Jul 06, 2011 9:01 pm)
What was wrong with your Blazer? Mine is doing the same thing and the mechanic is having a hard time fixing it!

#405 of 486 Re: 2001 Chevy Blazer dies on hot days [dgarrett13] by s10junkowner

Aug 12, 2011 (8:45 pm)

Replying to: dgarrett13 (Aug 12, 2011 8:15 pm)
Its the fuel pump!
After changing all of this:
Ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, ignition module, sparkplugs, cables.
After changing all of them, it still would stall.
Then soon after I changed the plugs, it got so bad, it wouldn't even start.
Even after sitting.
Now remember this part. Everybody seemed like an expert.
Do not but the cheaper types of fuel pumps. Because the one that I have to replace now, only got me to 10 months!
This is the 3rd fuel pump. I'm saving up the $399.00 to but the original AC Delco.
Everything else is JUNK! Do not waste your money on the cheaper brands.
I was also told that the cam sensors are really problematic on the entire lines of ALL GM cars. Right now it's not the issue, but I will have it changed out asap.
Have you checked the fuel pressure?
That will tell you without a doubt that it is the pump.
When it stalls, check the pressure on the fuel line valve that's right behind the fuel intake. It is like a valve on your tire, but made of metal.
Stick a tip of a pen in there after it stalls. If the gass shoots out? Its not the pump.
But if it doesn't shoot out? It's definitely your pump!
There should be enough pressure to spray out like a bat out of hell. Mine just basically spurted out, and after that, no preasure at all.
Write back on here if you find the culprit.
I will say this, i'll never buy another GM 4 or 6 banger.
GM built them to fail, that's why GM and ac delco used to be one in the same.
To make money from their junk cars!
Look it up as I did, and learn.
A heart warming story of a massive company that got greedy and lost customers because of their cheap products.
This is why they needed the bail out money.
Massive Loss of car sales and customer loyalty.

#406 of 486 S10 junk by s10junkowner

Aug 12, 2011 (8:51 pm)

Typo: fuel intake was supposed to be air intake.

#407 of 486 Re: 1995 S-10 Blazer 4WD engine cuts out [chevyride22] by rvsmichael1

Aug 14, 2011 (6:41 pm)

Replying to: chevyride22 (Nov 13, 2009 9:38 am)
The ignition control Moduel if its a 95 depending on if the sparkplugs come out the side of distributor or the top if its the top like mine take two screws off distibutor cap remove two screws on icm and change it for about 40 bucks make sure you put the temp grease on it before you install it . these get hot and cutr off the distributor from sending a charge to the plug to spark in the cylinder. so long story short change your icm it fixed mine . try it

#408 of 486 Re: 2001 Chevy Blazer dies on hot days [s10junkowner] by dgarrett13

Aug 21, 2011 (10:36 am)

Replying to: s10junkowner (Aug 12, 2011 8:45 pm)
The mechanic who changed to rotor tested the fuel pump and it is passed the pressure test. Also, changing the rotor did not help. Next, we changed to Idle Air Control valve and it ran fine for about 1 week and now it is stalling periodically again. I noticed that if it is not too hot outside it does not stall as much. My next "guess" is the ignition module getting hot and shutting her down. I am going to change the coil and the module and see what happens next. I will repost soon with an update.
 
Sorry you had trouble with the fuel pump! That's an expensive fix!

Messages Page 41 of 49

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