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You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV
Apr 05, 2011 (10:38 pm)
So I have had my 2000 Chevy blazer for almost 6 years now and haven't had too major of issues with it. However, a just started having issues with it starting. The engine does not turn over completely to start but will crank. I had my car jumped and it started right away. I brought it into a local shop and the battery was indeed shot. I replaced the battery and it ran fine for about 16 hours (drove to a few local places and then parked it at work for 6 hours). When I went to leave work this evening, the engine was again not turning over. I turned the key to off and let it sit for about 30 seconds and did it again and the engine barely turned over to start it. It puttered into a running engine. I then went to reverse and pull out of the parking spot and the car would not respond to my pressing the accelerator. After a few seconds i responded and backed up. I put it in drive and same thing again, no response for an initial few seconds. This really scares me!!! I commute a long distance to work! Please help!!!!
#391 of 496 parasitic battery drain
Apr 06, 2011 (2:38 am)
The electrical system may have an excessive "parasitic battery drain". All modern cars have that because of alarms, relays, clocks, electronic engine management components, radios, etc. . I had a similar situation when I found my battery completely dead one morning after my S10 Blazer sat for four days without being started and driven. In that case, it was a shorted power door lock relay but that was obvious because the power door locks would not function. Another common cause it leaving the instrument lights/dome light/courtesy lights on. Be sure it is cut off at the instrument panel dimmer/on/off switch. It is easy to leave those lights on in bright daylight.
Normal parasitic battery drain is usually less than 8 ma. A good shop can test the system at the battery posts to see if there is excessive battery drain when the engine is not running. Excessive would be more than 20 ma.
#392 of 496 Re: Chevy Blazer stops running [mcraepiad]
Apr 16, 2011 (8:02 am)
I think you should try the ignition coil. that I bet will fix your problem
#393 of 496 98 Blazer Stalling issue
Jun 02, 2011 (7:05 am)
About a month +1 week ago, my blazer started stalling after driving around for a while. It would take a five minute or so of cool down before starting back up and run for about 15 minutes before repeating the stalling and non-start. This happened on my way to work, so I brought it to a local garage that I use for things i don't want to do or have time to do. He checked the fuel pressure, the coil, and the icm, and none of those seem to be causing the problem. We left it there overnight as he ran out of time, and when he went back the next day to it, It ran just fine. It was running fine since until monday, when it stalled on me on my way home. It took 15 minutes before it would restart. I was a ways away from home so I had it towed to the garage, but by the time the mechanic got to it, it wouldn't stall at all. When it starts acting up, I can feather the gas and it will be ok, but when I go to step on it, it bogs down as if it is fuel starved. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#394 of 496 Re: 98 Blazer Stalling issue [fireguy102]
Jun 02, 2011 (8:34 am)
That has all the symptoms of a bad fuel injectior pressure regulator. The pressure regulator costs from $70 to $100. It is located unter the upper plastic intake plenum.
#395 of 496 Re: my 98 blazer will start and then stop [yungbkfresh]
Jun 18, 2011 (12:17 pm)
I have had the same problem
Come to find out chevy never installed a GROUND wire/cable to the frame
as the truck age the 27 ground straps chevy has begin to decay and the only ground path the rear lights can find is the internal ground in the fuel pump(question have you been having problems with the rear lights ,the brake system lighting is attched to the fuel pump )
a simple check/cure
Attach a jumper cable from the NEGATIVE side of the battery to the frame
Then step on the brakes once Then start your vehicle
ALL 88 and newer chevy wireing systems incorperate an emergency shut down to the fuel system
IF your oil preasure sending unit (located near the base of the distributer) is faulty it cuts power to the fuel pump
if you loose ground the brake light interaction with the fuel pump will not allow the proper voltage to the fuel pump
#396 of 496 Re: 98 Blazer Stalling issue [duntov]
Jun 18, 2011 (12:23 pm)
intermittent BAD GROUND
Hook a jumper cable from the negative side of the battery to the frame
alternate problem low oil preasure or faulty oil/fuel preasure sending unit ( oil preasuer/fuel preasure sensor ) gauge sending unit (next to base of distributer )
#397 of 496 Re: Stalling and power loss [mdbowhunter]
Jun 22, 2011 (8:12 am)
Mine is doing the same thing. Did you ever figure it out?
#398 of 496 Re: Starting difficulty [cl02062010]
Jun 22, 2011 (8:23 am)
I have had this exact same problem. A year-and-a-half ago I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, then three months later the idle air valve and the catalytic converter, and now it's losing power and dying on me again, the check engine light is on, and the only code points to the cat or O2 sensors.
I have got all repairs done at the local Chevy dealership. I have hoped that they would be familiar with things like this. Guess not. Can you show me where I can find that technical service bulletin?
Brother, I owe you a steak. You've solved a frustrating mystery for me.
#399 of 496 Re: 98 Blazer Stalling issue [fireguy102]
Jun 24, 2011 (11:12 am)
1996 Chevy S10 Blazer 4X4
First of all I am not a mechanic, so I hope I can help.
This is what I think about the hot stalling problem. If you have checked fuel pressure and it's good, the fuel pump is probably OK. Then check the fuel pump relay, when you turn the key to "on" not start, the fuel pump will run for a couple of seconds. Someone else might have to turn the key to hear it. My intake manifold popped so I had to take off the whole top of the engine. While there I replaced the fuel regulator under the intake manifold plenum.
Last year when this started, I was driving on the first hot day and the car wouldn’t start at the store. So I got a rag and wet it and cooled down the ICM. The car started, so I bought a replacement. After the ICM replacement I was able to drive to Tucson and back during 110° days both ways.
The after I got home, it would not start again after going to the store. I got stuck and had to be towed home, where it started fine again.
So this year after the car stalled so I did this:
I got an old scrap heat sink from something. I trimmed it to the same size as the original. Using the original holes as a template I drilled matching holes in the scrap heat sink. Using new long bolts and nuts I assembled ICM/silver paste/stock heat sink facing out/silver paste/scrap heat sink facing out the other way/U bracket.
Using a piece of aluminum sheet, I made a "serif" U bracket that matched the coil mount bracket and mounted the assembly on the old bracket. The silver paste is used to thermally connect a CPU or chip to a heat sink.
I have a thought about hot fuel.
The fuel runs on a loop from the tank to the injector, demand opens the fuel regulator, and unused fuel goes back into the tank.
I bought a scan tool that connects to my laptop and watched it while driving around. On an 80° day the intake air temp was 185°!!! The tool only went to 140°.
So I checked the airbox, under the air filter. The snoot coming out of there was not getting any fresh air, it was only ˝ from the front wall with no vent holes, so I removed the snoot. The temperature dropped to 100° and the car has not failed since on three 110° days. I did not modify the airbox. I also keep the tank mostly full to cool the fuel pump (that’s why it’s in the tank).
**So I thought that the fuel in the tank was getting heated by the engine, returned hot fuel right next to the fuel pump causing the pump to go too low (overheating). The hot air caused a super vapor lock. So I put a fiberglass shield under the fuel line on the engine.**
Car starts now.