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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

326 messages,  Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 10:50 AM

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#259 of 326 Re: Blazer like the title of the blog says wont start!! [jlflemmons] by iafffireman823 Feb 25, 2009 (4:27 pm)
Replying to: jlflemmons (Feb 25, 2009 8:27 am) thanks for the help, i will consider those issues. Also I may have forgotten to mention the fact my SES light is on and throws out the code PO453 which I believe deals with the EVAP system and its reading high. I'm going to consider with the problems i've been having that maybe it might be a bad fuel vapor pressure switch on the fuel pump. And its been a while since i've done one of those but it does just simply thread into the pump where the old one simply threads out. Just one other direction and item I forgot to mention, again, great forum and great help!
#260 of 326 Re: Blazer like the title of the blog says wont start!! [iafffireman823] by jbutters Feb 25, 2009 (7:17 pm)
Replying to: iafffireman823 (Feb 24, 2009 5:58 pm) My 2000 Blazer did the same thing.... after researching this for many, many days. This is what causes the problem.   You need a new fuel injection spider, GM upgraded the one that is in your 1999 blazer, to a new spider that has MFI Injectors. It is a direct replacement. All you do is change the whole injector spider as a unit, it has the six new redesigned injectors. The injector unit that is in your truck now was a bad design, and GM knows that now. They always stick, and quit working after about 150,000 miles. The new replacement part fixes all issues with this.   Google " GM Part # 12568332 " and you can read all about this.   GM part #   12568332 - MFI Assembly   17113215 - Seal kit   $300 - $400 from the GM dealer.   Less than $200 from www.GMPartsDirect.com   Read the install notes at this link.   http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic559014.htm   My truck runs like new.
#262 of 326 help!!!!!!!! by trkrjohnboy Feb 25, 2009 (6:35 pm)
ok...so heres the deal with my 2000 blazer...230,000+ miles...when the outside air temp gets above 70 degrees...truck wont run...starts and idles, but any pressure on the throttle will cause it to die, sputter, backfire...etc...can feather the throttle to get the rpms up...but as soon as i let off the gas and attempt to give it more...same result...can even idle down the road at about 30 mph with very tricky throttle play...has new fuel pump and filter, coil pack, ignition module( inside the dist cap) and rotor...as well as various other new parts...and again this only happens when the air temp gets above 70...this started last fall...but with cold temp over the winter...has been ok...well spring is here...and had a prob a week ago...so came the new fuel pump(the third one this truck has had in the two years ive had it ) and now that im broke down in FL where its warm...im finding out the pump wasnt the issue....any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks Replies to this message: jbutters (Feb 26, 2009 7:40 pm)
#263 of 326 Re: help!!!!!!!! [trkrjohnboy] by jbutters Feb 26, 2009 (7:40 pm)
Replying to: trkrjohnboy (Feb 25, 2009 6:35 pm) It sounds like the Throttle Position Sensor. This is a part on the drivers side of the throttle body.   Or the map sensor. (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
#264 of 326 97 Blazer Eats Starters by grfenn Mar 13, 2009 (4:54 pm)
My son had a bearing go bad on his 1997 blazer last August and we bough a rebuilt engine. Got it installed and running just after Christmas. It keeps having starters go out. We bought a reman starter from AutoZone and are on the 6th warranty replacement. At least 2 had solenoid/bendix problems where the motor would spin but not "kick" the bendix. The last one we shimmed thinking perhaps we were binding somehow. Lasted about a week before before it quit- this time it seemed to be a chewed up bendix,but when we pulled it out,what we had was a the "snout" of the starter had fractured off so starter shaft wasn't supported. Flywheel still seems to be OK (no missing teeth, seems to be "true"). The only thing I can think of is something not properly lined up, but what? Trans seems to be properly bolted to engine block. No real adjustment to starter install other than shims. Any ideas?
#265 of 326 Odd starting problem by jsbartrum Apr 01, 2009 (8:19 am)
My 97 Chevy Blazer has a starting issue. If I start the car for the first time of the day it will start fine. After I park it, if I try to start it again within an hour of shutting it off, it just cranks and cranks and cranks. If it cools off and you try to start it, it fires rght up. Can anyone help me with this issue? All Ive done is replaced the fuel pump, and the ignition wires. I replaced the entire ignition system about 3 years ago. Replies to this message: igmaam (Apr 01, 2009 8:44 am) elaney1981 (Apr 01, 2009 9:07 am)
#266 of 326 Re: Odd starting problem [jsbartrum] by igmaam Apr 01, 2009 (8:44 am)
Replying to: jsbartrum (Apr 01, 2009 8:19 am) Had the same thing on a '92. It would start when cool, but just crank painfully when hot. Got so I was afraid to drive it more than a couple miles between errands. If we let it cool down for a while or if we jump-started, it would fire up fine. Thought the battery was good and so looked at a lot of other things, but upon recheck discovered the battery was actually dying. Replaced it and the old girl hasn't had a problem since. Knock on wood.
#267 of 326 Re: Odd starting problem [jsbartrum] by elaney1981 Apr 01, 2009 (9:07 am)
Replying to: jsbartrum (Apr 01, 2009 8:19 am) Sounds to me like the fuel pressure regulator, try to push the gas pedal all the way down while cranking mine did the same thing.
#268 of 326 Battery - starter or both. by duntov Apr 01, 2009 (10:07 am)
The problem could be the battery, starter solenoid or the starter or it could be all of them. If the battery and the connections are known to be good, the starter or the starter solenoid may be suffering from "heat soak" since the engine starts when cool but does not start when the engine is hot. Heat soak is an indication of a bad starter and/or starter solenoid. That is because the contacts and windings in those items have higher resistance when the battery is hot and a weak battery cannot overcome the resistance. A new battery will sometimes start a engine even if it has a bad starter or solenoid by overcoming the higher resistance in the heat soak condition.   It is not wise to go the cheap route and just replace the solenoid and neglect to replace the starter. They should be replaced as a unit because it is nearly the same amount of labor to replace either one and it is not a pleasant job, so you do not want to do it twice or pay for having it done twice. Never tell a auto repair shop what to replace. Always let the repair shop technician tell you what needs to be replaced.. Unscrouplous repair shops are just waiting for someone to tell them what to replace. Then they are off the hook if it does not fix the problem..   When I was a junior in high school, I replaced a starter solenoid on my 1955 Studebaker Champion 6-cylinder when it failed to start engage the starter when we were on the beach at Galveston. It was easy on that vehicle and I did not even have to get under the car. It is impossible to replace the starter and solenoid without raising the car on a Blazer or any V6 or V8 for that matter. If I was still physically able, replacing the starter and solenoid on a S10 Blazer would be a 4 hour job for me.   Starters and starter solenoids wear out slowly over a period of time similar to shock absorbers. You do not know how bad they were until you replace them.

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