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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems
326 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 10:50 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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All S10 Blazers have a small amount of parasitic battery drain when the cars is just sitting without the engine running unless you disconect a battery cable. That is because the ECM, clock, sensors, theft alarms, and relays stay energized all the time. However, due to the blown fuses you have had, it is quite obvious that your car has overloads or shorts in the wiring that is increasing the battery drain, at least until a fuse blows. A bad relay will not cause a fuse to blow but it will cause a increase in battery drain. A bad relay is just like a short but is not solid enough to blow a fuse. Make sure all your accessories are working. For example, a bad power door lock relay on my 1991 S10 Blazer caused a 8 month old Autolite battery to go completely dead after the car sat for a week without being started and driven. Once a battery goes completely dead it will not take a full charge and should be replaced. I replaced the power door lock relay with a new one from NAPA and I also replaced the dead Autolite battery with a AC Delco 60 month battery. Now the Blazer has no electrical problems. I also purchased a Beltran 800 ma Battery Tender to connect to the battery in case my Blazer sits again for an extended period without being driven.. If you have a parasitic battery drain of less than 800 ma, the Beltran 800 ma battery tender will keep the battery fully charged no matter how long it sits without being driven. Normal parasitic battery drain is usually no more than 10 ma on a S10 Blazer. A good multimeter can tell you exactly how much parasitic battery drain you car has.
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Replying to: duntov (Feb 09, 2009 3:21 pm) |
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We were driving for about 20 min and then it died so we pulled over tried to start it and it wouldnt start. it then started shaking and backfiring. We recently replaced the fuel pump and gas tank. Anybody have an idea as to why it's not starting?
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Replying to: bedard (Feb 22, 2009 7:54 am) Several things could cause this, a MAP sensor being one of them. Generally speaking, the vehicle has suffered a hard failure and if it is sensor related you should have a code stored. Other concerns would be jumped timing from a worn timing chain/gear set. Also an ignition issue from the distributor.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Feb 22, 2009 12:48 pm)
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Replying to: bedard (Feb 22, 2009 4:04 pm) These things aren't cheap. See if you can find a buddy with an OBDII scan tool. Autozone will check it for you, but the car has to be at their store and it sounds like that isn't going to happen!
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Feb 22, 2009 8:18 pm)
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Replying to: 92hatchbackk (Feb 24, 2009 8:37 am) My problem - the Turn Signal arm. There are a bunch of connections on the backside of the arm - if you don't pull it straight out when removing it the horn will honk, etc.... Seemed silly that they wouldn't insulate them more. So, I put some electric tape on the steering column and Dielectric Compound on the connections. Put the key in and it started fine. Turned it off and on a couple dozen times and worked every time. I haven't had the problem since. This was 4 months ago.
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Replying to: sandwichman (Feb 24, 2009 1:03 pm)
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Replying to: elaney1981 (Feb 24, 2009 1:19 pm) I fixed my problem. |
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