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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

324 messages,  Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 8:20 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV


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#200 of 324
Re: blazer won't start [blondie16] by jlflemmons
Aug 11, 2008 (9:04 am)
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Replying to: blondie16 (Aug 10, 2008 6:00 am)

The regulator and spider assembly are in the intake assembly. Let me see if I can locate a picture and I will post a link.
#201 of 324
Re: blazer won't start [blondie16] by elaney1981
Aug 11, 2008 (12:08 pm)
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Replying to: blondie16 (Aug 10, 2008 6:00 am)

ok the regulator for the fuel is between the intake were your air cleaner goes into the engine and the bottom intake. all you have to do is take the air cleaner assembly off then the throttle body and the plugs around it also the cable for throttle and cruise after this you will see the black dome like plastic piece the plentum, the haynes book does not get into detail so what i am saying is start to tear down the top of the engine. if you need more help e-mail me at elaney1981yahoo.com I will try to find the post with pictures that helped me.
#202 of 324
2000 Jimmy by isoia
Aug 12, 2008 (11:59 pm)
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Always seem to have problems after going through the carwash. Just replaced the fuel pump, broke down on the freeway, ignition wasn't making an electrical connection so my key was stuck, and I had absolutely no power. The problem was I needed to clean the two-way fuse underneath the battery. It ran beautifully since then. NOW . . . I have a problem with the fuel filter! Again, the problem arises after a trip to the carwash. I've replaced the fuel filter, but the hose connecting to the top of the filter is partly busted, and doesn't snap into place with the new filter. It is the RIGHT part with the right accessories. The previous owner used two O-Rings for the filter, but I've decided to use just one, and it's left me with a major fuel leak. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions, before having to replace the entire fuel line?
 
Thanks, iSOiA
#203 of 324
Thanks . . . by isoia
Aug 22, 2008 (4:39 am)
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Replying to: elaney1981 (Aug 11, 2008 12:08 pm)

Thanks for your response. My Dad ended up securing it with zip-ties. So far, so good, it's still holding together. But I'm still having the same problem with the engine cutting out on hot days. Runs good with no problems during the night while it's cooler. My Dad's conclusion is a vapor lock. Can I solve this problem without having to take into the shop? I also heard from another mechanic using wooden clothes pins to help lessen the heat in the fuel lines.
 
Mike | mmillers29yahoo.com
#204 of 324
Fuel line by duntov
Aug 22, 2008 (6:11 am)
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Clothes pins? Please.....
 
The fuel line to the filter is a hard connection on the driver's side of the frame.A hard connection is necessary because of the high fuel line pressure used with modern fuel injection. The "vapor lock" problem does not occur anymore. That was in the early days of carburated engines and has not occured since the mid-1960s and then it was caused by underhood temperatures. If it were a problem today, you would hear about vapor lock more often. You must solve the fuel line to filter issue and zip locks are only a temporary spit and bailing wire solution. Replacing the fuel filter can be troublesome due to the location and the hard connections but those type connections must be made. If the fuel line is damaged, the damaged area must be cut out and replaced with section of new fuel line and brass connections.
 
The problem is most likely electrical. Start by replacing the fuel tank relay. They are cheap. The relay is located under the dash and is a plug-in connection. The fuel pump relay is AC Delco 15-50688 and it costs $9.00.
 
A restricted catalytic converter will cause the exhaust O2 sensor to tell the ECM (Engine Control Module) to make the engine do strange things. There is no way to check for a restricted catalytic converter except to replace it. If someone wants to test a catalytic converter for a restricted condition before they replace it, the only thing that can be done is to replace it with a temporary "test pipe" to see if the vehicle's performance improves. An emmissions test will not indicate if the catalytic converter is restricted. Factory catalytic converters are expensive. Since they are required on vehicles by the federal government, the new car manufacturers must guarantee them for 80,000 miles. The cheaper aftermarket catalytic converters that are installed on pre-owned vehicles must be guaranteed for only 26,000 miles. Your O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter could be bad but are easy to replace. An O2 sensor is AC Delco AFS 105.....$65.00.
 
You appear to have good fuel pressure. However, the fuel pump module assembly cost from $360 to $400 for a 2000 Jimmy, depending on the brand plus the labor cost for installation. I doubt if that is your problem.
#205 of 324
Re: blazer won't start [jlflemmons] by jboyson
Sep 02, 2008 (4:43 am)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 11, 2008 9:04 am)

I'm having starting issues with my 1999 Blazer. I believe the problem could be a regulator or another fuel system component. Did you find any pictures of the regulator and/or the spider assembly? Did replacing either of these components solve your starting problems.
 
My Blazer starts but it usually cranks quite a few times before it starts. It never used to do this and it is getting worse. It always starts and once it is running it runs great. It just takes a few tries to get it started.
#206 of 324
Re: blazer won't start [jboyson] by jlflemmons
Sep 02, 2008 (6:48 am)
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Replying to: jboyson (Sep 02, 2008 4:43 am)

I couldn't find postable photos, but the assembly is inside the two piece intake manifold. I believe the regulator is in there with it.
 
"Spider" is a good name for this assembly. There is a large injector 'pump' with six tubes, each one running out to a cylinder.
#207 of 324
Re: blazer won't start [jlflemmons] by blondie16
Sep 06, 2008 (4:51 pm)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 08, 2008 8:01 pm)

He still can't find the fuel regulator on my blazer but he did find the map sensor is it around that? Can you find and send me a picture of it?Or tell me ( in detail ) where it is? I really need this fixed I haven't been able to drive it since June and I don't have alot of money to put into it so I can't take it to a dealer.
#208 of 324
fuel regulator by duntov
Sep 07, 2008 (6:04 am)
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The fuel pressure regulator on 1987-1992 VIN-Z engines with TBI (Throttle Body Injection) is part of the throttle body assembly and can be replaced separately from the TBI assembly. AC Delco #217382 ( GM -17112399 ) The cost of the fuel pressure regulator is from $84.35 to $182.21 depending on where you purchase it and if you get a discount.
 
On 1992-1995 Vin-W engines , the fuel pressure regulator is part of the CPI (Central Port Injection) assembly which is located inside the upper intake manifold plenum. You must remove the upper intake manifold plenum to access the CPI assembly. The fuel pressure regulator on those models cannot be replaced spearately from the CPI assembly. The cost of the CPI assembly is more than $500. There is an alternative to replacing the entire CPI assembly when the fuel pressure regulator fails. You can now purchase a new fuel pressure regulator separately from the CPI, It is offered by Dorman as part #55162 and it cost $47.95.
 
I knew it was just a matter of time before some company would offer a fuel pressure regulator separately form the CPI assembly.
 
#209 of 324
Re: fuel regulator [duntov] by blondie16
Sep 07, 2008 (3:30 pm)
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Replying to: duntov (Sep 07, 2008 6:04 am)

I have a 97 blazer 4.3 liter v6 vortex where would it be on that? I have tried to look up pictures of one but the pictures seem to stop at 95.

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