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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems
206 messages, Last post on Sep 02, 2008 at 7:48 AM
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Howdy, I need some help really bad!!!!! My 2001 Chevy Blazer runs like a champ and can go hundreds of miles when it is cold outside! When it heats up I find that I can go down the higway for miles and it runs just fine but when I come to a stop sign or stop light when it is hot and has been running for a while it will just die I then put it in park and it runs again until I have to stop! I just took it in and they cant find any problems of course, I have a appointment on Saturday for a dealership to look at it but just to take it in it will cost me $110 for them to diagnois and I just lost my job so money is really tight! I am begging for an answer! Thanks |
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I have a 4 door 2002 Chevy Blazer. Last summer I started having problems with the vehicle running hot and shutting off when I would be at a stoplight or stopsign. Shortly after, it began to run hot and shut off while I was driving, over and over and over! It will start back up everytime though. I also have a lot of brown sludge in my radiator, which has been flushed out many times, but it keeps coming back. I got a new radiator cap by suggestion of the man changing my oil, and it seemed to help. However, it wasn't that hot outside until now. Just last week it shut off at a stop light again, and continued to do so my entre way home, except for now it doesn't run hot at all! I'm not sure if the brown sludge and radiator cap are related to this at all. I have no idea what is wrong with my truck!! It will be paid off in 4 months, and I don't want a new car loan...please help if you have any ideas! |
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It turns over just fine and then instantly acts as if I have my foot on the gas pressed to the floor and then peters out and dies. No choking or sputtering, just fades quickly to nothing. From turning the key to dying it takes about 3 seconds. The fuel pump was replaced a year ago. This truck sits a lot as it is my second vehicle. My uncle mentioned a valve that gets stuck if it is not used frequently...? (I don't know if it matters that I'm in Minnesota)
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Replying to: tchill93 (Jun 19, 2008 7:54 am) Replace the in-line fuel filter if you have not already recently done so. The in-line fuel filter should routinely be replaced every 10,000 miles. TANK: When the fuel pump in the fuel tank is replaced, it is recommended that the tank screen and tank wiring harness should be replaced also. Some even recommend that the tank should be removed and cleaned when the fuel pump, harness and screen are replaced. The logic is that fuel pumps must have a reason to fail and if the harness is bad and the screen is contaminated, the new pump will prematurly fail.
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Replying to: duntov (Jun 19, 2008 9:20 am) Thanks again. |
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I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 engine. Recently changed fuel pump & filter, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires and coil. Starts fine when engine is cold and drives well. I drive 13 miles to work, when I stop engine, it won't start back up unless I wait about 10 to 15 minutes. Notice an increase in fuel consumption after pump was changed. No SES light and no codes show up on reader. Repair shop is not helpful anymore. The wife is aggravated and so am I. Please Help!!!
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Replying to: chumdrex (Jun 30, 2008 9:08 am) |
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I have a blazer 98 that have problem starting. The instrument panel is not working properly. From time to time the temp and gas gauge will go out and the security, gas and batt. light will go on, sometime will fix itself an the car will start. The electromechanic mention that is the Instrument panel Cluster the one causing the problem and I can not get a replacement for it. please assit. |
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Hi guys: I have a 1994 Bravada 4.3 CPI Engine - Vin W, 135,000 miles on it. I own the car about 4 and a half years and is used mainly as a 2nd car and in winters. (4 wheel drive vehicle) About 3 months ago I was driving from Pa to NY, about 120 miles each way. It is mainly highway driving. I was near my destination on the highway, when it stalled out on me. I pulled over and it started right up. Then after I got off the highway, it started to stall out by every light and stop sign, and again it started right up each time. On my way back home about 6 hours later, again it was doing the same thing. Once I got to the highway it ran fine for a about 105 miles. Once I got to my exit on the highway and got off, the car stalled out again. This time it would not start up. So I had it towed back to my house. The next day it started right up. I shut it off and I went to buy new spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, PCV valve, and fuel filter. I had the fuel pump changed in May of 2005 (about 15,000 miles ago) The fuel pressure is 58 with IOEO. It still does not start. I do not have any engine light on. I went to a salvage yard where you pull your own parts. I got a used Map sensor, IAC sensor, TPS sensor, EGR valve, CPI unit and a computer. It was from a vehicle that was in an accident. I changed parts one at a time. It still won't start. I checked the oil, I do smell gas in it. I know that means that there is a leak somewhere. I'm not sure what that means nor how to look for that? I also read in your posts that it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have the Haynes repair manual and it does not mention anything about it. Can any one please tell me where it is and be specific about it and is it hard to change? Can someone also tell me if you could start the car with the Air intake plenum off the car, or does it have to be on and under pressure? Thanks for all your help. George PS. You guys are great! I learn so much from these forums. I feel like I could one day become a mechanic from these forums.
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