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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems
216 messages, Last post on Oct 11, 2008 at 2:48 PM
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 08, 2008 9:01 pm) |
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The fuel pressure regulator on 1987-1992 VIN-Z engines with TBI (Throttle Body Injection) is part of the throttle body assembly and can be replaced separately from the TBI assembly. AC Delco #217382 ( GM -17112399 ) The cost of the fuel pressure regulator is from $84.35 to $182.21 depending on where you purchase it and if you get a discount. On 1992-1995 Vin-W engines , the fuel pressure regulator is part of the CPI (Central Port Injection) assembly which is located inside the upper intake manifold plenum. You must remove the upper intake manifold plenum to access the CPI assembly. The fuel pressure regulator on those models cannot be replaced spearately from the CPI assembly. The cost of the CPI assembly is more than $500. There is an alternative to replacing the entire CPI assembly when the fuel pressure regulator fails. You can now purchase a new fuel pressure regulator separately from the CPI, It is offered by Dorman as part #55162 and it cost $47.95. I knew it was just a matter of time before some company would offer a fuel pressure regulator separately form the CPI assembly.
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Replying to: duntov (Sep 07, 2008 7:04 am) |
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| I had the same problem, especially during the HOTTEST days of August. Though I do suggest checking your fuel lines underneath the driver seat. My problem was the plastic connectors were damaged. I had them replaced at Chevrolet, $700 for one (1) fuel line. It runs fine now, but I believe the problem still not fixed. When I'm at a complete stop, and when pressing on the accelerator I can feel the engine slip. | |
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I have a 1995 Chevy Blazer LS, 4.3, automatic. It had a bad miss in it so I done the typical tune up (plugs, plug wire, air filter, fuel filter, oil change, oil filter). It took some of the miss out for about 3 weeks, now it's back to missing even worse now,  so I dropped the gas tank and cleaned it out, put another fuel filter on it (cause when I replaced the first one it was really bad). I know the fuel pump is good and I know its getting fuel. I have replaced the relays so I know they are not the problem. Sometimes it starts very easy, sometimes it don't...sometimes it runs great, sometimes it don't. It has never completely died on me (yet) but it misses but not all the time. You can drive for a few miles and it runs great then it will start jumping and missing. If anyone has any suggestions..  ..that would be great...thank you!!
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Replying to: redneckgirl (Oct 01, 2008 1:22 pm)
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Replying to: mwolf9000 (Oct 02, 2008 8:28 am)
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Replying to: redneckgirl (Oct 02, 2008 9:00 am) |
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Replying to: redneckgirl (Oct 01, 2008 1:22 pm) In my history, there have been two occasions of an intermittent crankshaft position sensor, but at $60, you don't want to swap this one unless you know it is bad. Stores a code, but I can't remember off the top of my head what it was. And if the lamp doesn't come on, the code won't be there anyway. |
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| What are the signs of a catalytic converter plugging and backfire sound from the cat...? Fuel filter changed, new fuel pump, 02 sensors before cat has been changed. po131 and po151 came-up before the changes. No rotting egg smell. | |
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