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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

188 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 2:23 PM
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Replying to: muncy (Apr 04, 2008 5:25 pm) |
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Replying to: bolivar (Jun 14, 2008 3:42 pm) |
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I have a 2003 Ranger XLT 2wd - new problem: sometimes I can't turn the key in the ignition - it's stuck until you jiggle the steering wheel. I don't want to wait until it gets permanently stuck off and needs to be drilled--- So, is there any alternative to taking it to a Ford Dealer to get the lock cylinder replaced ? I also don''t want to end up with 2 different keys - one for the ignition and one for the doors. This seems to be a Ford problem-same thing happend on my Villager and the dealer wanted $400 to fix it. Any ideas ?
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Replying to: ronz1 (Jun 24, 2008 7:09 am) |
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| i drove my truck to store, tried to start 3min later cranked like it wanted to start but didn't check for spark good checked fuel at in injectors good ?????? | |
| Similar to Arnieboy1, I stopped off at a store and when I turned the key to go home, all I got was a hard click. The engine would not even turn over. I turned the lights on, but even they did not dim after the click. No power to what? | |
where is the starter relay located on a 98 ranger. i was told passenger side firewall searched for hours and didnt find a thing
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wow!lots of peep's with old ford troubles..whodathunkit?? if yiu turn the key,and nuthin happens,think solenoid..find the positive terminal on the battery,usually the red one,and follow it the six/ten inches to a round box bolted to the fender..take a jumper wire from the battery side to the little wire terminal,and this should make the starter work--if it's a stick-make shure it's in neutral-as you're bypassing all the idioit switches,and it WILL run over you!!..if the solenoid's ok,trace down the safety switch on the clutch pedal..or,the starter.. to the guy with nuthing comes on,it's probably a fuseable link..these are the main power feeds located back at the solenoid,with a smaller wire in them,and should you short something,the wire is thin enough to burn through-like a fuse,before your wiring system does a "china syndrome" meltdown..get a circut testewr,and probe through the insulation-going more than a foot away from the connection at the solenoid..on gm's,it's down at the starter..wher the bater wire isfind a pattern here?/ --a real primitive method for checking out a fuseable link-is to pull LIGHTLY on the wire..if the wire is good,that's not where the break is,but if it is,then all you will be pulling apart is the plastic insulation.. be shure to replace with another fuseable link,but-to get home,you could strip it past the break,and make the connection..rember this is the last thing protecting your wires from the battery..a short WILL melt wires-think "cigarett lighter"..?! i've also had a "no start-will crank,but not run" situation,and altho i was getting a spark out of the coil,it wasn't hot enough!..replaced coil,and HAPPY MOTORING!! good luck! |
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Replying to: yachtman (Jul 01, 2008 4:52 am) good luck! |
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It has a new solenoid and it wont start. You can try to jump the solenoid between the bolts and all it will do is the enterior lights come on. You can push start it and it`s fine. But if you shut it off you have to push it to start it. Give a guy some advice and thank you.
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