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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Starting Problems
188 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 2:23 PM
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Came home from work on Wednesday night, the truck ran fine as always. Came out Thursday morning to go to work, turned the key, and it was idling as if someone had crossed all the spark plug wires. I checked them, they are all right. cleaned the contacts in the distributor cap and the rotor. Put new plugs in and nothing changed. Any suggestions? 1986 Ranger 2.9L 6 cyl Thxs in advance
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my 1992 ford ranger will not start no fire to plugs had the coils checked and modular all so, what else could it be
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| I ran my Ranger low on gas and it stalled out and now it will not restart. I think I hear the fuel pump when I switch it on but am not sure. What else can I check? Is there a fuel reset somewhere? | |
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I went to take off after work, forgot the e brake was on and killed it. Had to push and pop clutch to get it started. Got it home now and put a new battery in it but there is still no power to run lights radio interior light ect. Any ideas? 
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Replying to: timkellygpi (Jun 11, 2008 7:07 am) HELP????? 
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Have a 2003 4L V6 Automatic with new battery that won't hold a charge. Truck has been in storage for the last couple years, but it was started and made a few short trips while being stored. The alarm system is what killed the old battery but it is now disarmed. I've recharged the new battery and can go about a day and a half without losing enough power for it not to click the solenoid but not start. The alternator will charge the battery. Any idea what might be drawing down the battery?
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Replying to: timkellygpi (Jun 12, 2008 1:02 pm) |
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Replying to: peloquinac (Jun 12, 2008 5:26 pm) Problems like this is why I would never install an aftermarket security system or remote start. Their components and/or crappy connections break down and cause lots of problems as time goes by....
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Replying to: bolivar (Jun 12, 2008 10:48 pm) I also agree not to instal a security sytem. I've had two vehicles with them and had nothing but trouble with them. Never again.
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Replying to: peloquinac (Jun 13, 2008 4:12 pm) Otherwise, you are going to have to go into the 'usual' search for a power drain. Get a ampmeter that can handle 2 or 3 or more amps. Pull a fuse and put the ampmeter across the fuse contacts until you find the circuit that is pulling a big amp load. This just narrows the problem down to one circuit. Or get a Test Lamp that can also handle a couple of amps thru it. Pull one cable from the battery and wire the test lamp in series from the loose cable to the battery. The lamp should light up. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out, or dims down a lot. Again this just narrows the problem down to a circuit. To do further testing may just be guesswork of unplugging various things in this questionable circuit. Looking for pinched wires, etc. Finding what is draining a battery can be one of the toughest problems in a car. In may cases, a factory shop manual with wiring schemetic will be necessary. A tech that is a 'mechanic' and knows little about electronics may not be able to do this. P.S. If you have a sticking relay, the above testing may not work. Removing the power to a stuck relay, when you pull a fuse or remove battery cable, might cause it to reset correctly and then you will not be able to see the drain on a meter. Good luck. Finding a power drain is tough. I had a Caddy that would kill a battery in 2 days. Dealer did find it - replaced the radio/cassette/CD player. This probably was a thousand dollar part. Happy it was under warranty.
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