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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

337 messages,  Last post on May 19, 2013 at 1:27 PM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 27 of 34

#257 of 337 Re: time has told [innerbeyond] by jdeadbolt

Apr 13, 2011 (12:18 am)

Replying to: innerbeyond (Apr 12, 2011 4:32 pm)
I have a 1991 2.9 l 4wd manual ford ranger that i bought couple of months ago to save the miles on my diesel truck. Last week i couldn't get it to start so i replaced the battery and had the alternator rebuilt. I drove it to work last nite with no problems whatsoever, today i went out to start it up to head back to work and it turned over but then wouldn't stop trying to start even with the motor running, it was making some god awful noises. I turned the key off and it still wouldn't stop, (even when i took the key out) the only way i could get it to stop was to disconnect the battery(nice spark show). Every time i touch the cable back to the battery it does the same thing immediately. Any one have any ideas what is causing this, Starter? Ignition switch? Take it to the junk yard lol?

#258 of 337 Re: time has told [jdeadbolt] by bolivar

Apr 13, 2011 (1:37 am)

Replying to: jdeadbolt (Apr 13, 2011 12:18 am)
I think the first thing the positive battery cable goes to is a starter relay. A black box. I would think this might be stuck in the start position.

#259 of 337 Re: time has told [jdeadbolt] by blue95

Apr 13, 2011 (10:35 am)

Replying to: jdeadbolt (Apr 13, 2011 12:18 am)
Sounds like your starter solinoid is stuck closed. There's a set of contactors inside the soliniod that slam closed and connect the battery to the starter when your ignition switch is in the start position. Sometimes when they get old the contacts get so pitted that they can stick together. If you have an ohm meter you can test it by removing the battery cable from the solinoid terminal, then put your meter acrossed the battery in and out connections on the solinoid. It should be open (infinite). If it's closed( 0 or very low ohms), replace it. The starter solinoid is inexpensive and easy to replace, you can do it. It's the round black part located on the driver side fender well right next to the fuse box.

#260 of 337 Re: time has told [blue95] by jdeadbolt

Apr 13, 2011 (3:33 pm)

Replying to: blue95 (Apr 13, 2011 10:35 am)
ok that i will do, i found the selenoid this morning when i was fiddling with it before work, it is located in front of the fuse box, but on the passenger side fender. I do have an ohm meter, so just to make sure i'm doing this rite, i want to disconnect the possitive cable running from the battery to the seloid terminal. Then place the ohm meter on the two posts on the selenoid? Does it matter if the key is on or anything? That is the nice thing about older trucks is that they are a heck of a lot easier to work on, compared to my new diesel that its like doing brain surgery on. Im going to plan on doing this in the morning as long as i don't have to work, gotta love 30 hours of overtime a week..

#261 of 337 Re: time has told [jdeadbolt] by jdeadbolt

Apr 13, 2011 (3:56 pm)

Replying to: jdeadbolt (Apr 13, 2011 3:33 pm)
On second thought, is that the actual selenoid or is that just a relay? Shouldn't the selenoid be mounted right on top of the starter?? Going to dig into it and find the starter as well, as long as i've get it opened up mite as well have the starter checked and take it in and have it rebuilt if needed.

#262 of 337 Solonid by bolivar

Apr 15, 2011 (10:49 pm)

Fords don't have solonids on top of the starters. That 'relay' is the solonid.

#263 of 337 Re: 1991 Ford Ranger 6 cyl 3.0 won't start when warm [fordgirl77] by consolegoddess

Apr 19, 2011 (11:55 am)

Replying to: fordgirl77 (May 14, 2010 6:12 pm)
I have a 1988 Ranger V6 Manual I bought new with 170K miles now and it just developed this not starting thing when the weather is warm last summer. All winter it started right up. Only when the weather is warm. It cranks but won't turn over. If I touch the gas at the right time it starts and runs fine. Logic tells me something is expanding when it's warm causing the problem. Does that make any sense to you car guys? I remember a bunch of years ago had trouble starting and someone mentioned changing the inertia switch and it fixed the problem. It's been too many years to recall if it was the same problem. I have a Chilton guide for '83-91 models that I can copy pages for anyone if it helps figure out the problem. I'll be watching this for information simple enough us amateurs can fix it.

#264 of 337 Re: 94 hard to start [blue95] by drewranger

Apr 19, 2011 (1:50 pm)

Replying to: blue95 (Apr 12, 2011 3:46 pm)
Hey, I just wanted to thank you for your help. I changed the relays and she starts up every time now!

#265 of 337 1991 ford ranger ext cab automatic 4.0 by schoonover2009

May 11, 2011 (1:20 pm)

about 6 months ago my truck died and it wont start unless i put it on a battery charger for a little while and then it will start and hold a charge. if i leave both battery cables on over night the truck drains and i cant start it again. i have replaced the starter solinoid, battery and the alternator. the motor, starter and the ignition all work fine, im thinking that theres a short somewhere but i dont know how to find it. i know that when i get it started if i turn the radio on that my volts drop way down and also my tail light acts up sometimes, but i dont know what to do?? any ideas?

#266 of 337 1991 Ford Ranger 3.0L cranks but will not fire by davidsheets

May 13, 2011 (7:06 am)

Messages Page 27 of 34

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