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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

188 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 2:23 PM
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Replying to: raposo (Nov 28, 2006 9:07 am) any luck yet? :confused: |
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Replying to: joray (Jun 06, 2006 4:10 pm) |
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Replying to: shiftolo (Oct 30, 2006 8:40 pm) i'm guessing key chip sensor is faulty? easy fix? |
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| I hav a 1990 Ranger, starts perfect after let sit for a bit but to turn the truck off to get gas then when i go to start up and pull away the motor wurls over but wont go, seems to me like its flooding itself. i bought a new battery for it yesterday so i no its getting enough juice, but ihav also put a MAP sensor,throttle body on this truck, other times it just wont go and have to get it towed, when i jump start it it takes a while to get it going seems like its not getting gas at first then it spits for a bit then eventully it runs good and suggestions????????? | |
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I have a 1991 Ford Ranger, 4 cylinder, manual transmission. It will not start. When key is turned, it will click one time. It did this a month ago. Put in new battery, had starter tested at Autozone. Starter was ok. After putting starter back in, I jumped the solonoid and it started. Then it started every time until now. Now it has quit again. Same symptoms. Has new battery, cables are clean and connected well, starter is ok. When key is turned, it will click once, that is it. I can jump the solonoid and nothing happens. I thought is solonoid was bad, then jumping it would tell me because it would start, but it doesn't. Any ideas on what my problem is??? Note: I can push it off and crank it, so it is definetly an electrical problem.
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Replying to: mosleygh (Jan 13, 2007 3:55 pm) One thing to remember. When autozone tests your starter. Its a no load test. Meaning if you are having problems with bad bearings in your starter it wont show up there. I would pull the starter again, and hold the gear in the nose, and shake it. If you hear a clunking sound, its not a good sound. You need to replace that starter, the bearings have gone bad. You can also just look at the bearings in the nose and see if there is alot of play there as well. One more thing. Is the positive cable getting warm to the touch when you are jumping the solenoid? If so I would also do a touch inspection on the ENTIRE length of the battery-to-starter positive cable. If it has rubbed on the exhaust or frame in a hard to see place, you wont notice it, but it will ground out the starter every time. Electricity chooses the path of least resistance, and that starter is a huge resistor when engaging the flywheel. |
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when i try to start my truck i just clicks and other times it starts right up so i replaced the starter relay. with the car shut off i connect the red-black wire to the battery it turns over and acts like it wants to start but when you use the key it just clicks. then i replaced the starter solenoid and the truck does the same thing can you help
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Replying to: orozcocota (Jan 22, 2007 4:59 pm) You need 100 amp hours to fully charge a completely discharged battery. So to figure out what you think you need, if you charge a battery at 2amps for 8 hours that is 16 amp hours. The faster you charge a battery the faster you wear it out. A fast charge (over 20amps) will cause the lead plates to vibrate and shake off material, and you risk overheating the battery and boiling out electrolyte. If your solenoid is clicking, I would say you probably need atleast 10-20 amp hours. So if you take it to wally world, and have them charge it on slow charge (2A), leave it with them for atleast 5hrs or all day. Then have them test it for you with a load. Have them burn off the top charge though, otherwise it will test wrong. They can do that by connecting it to a car with jumper cables and turning the lights and fan on in the car for about 10-20sec. |
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Will not start. The truck is getting spark, Gas, etc. We have replaced the crank sensor and coil pack. You can hear the fuel pump as soon as you turn the key on. What's up ?
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