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Coupes & Convertibles Porsche 911 Porsche 944 and 924
86 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 5:35 PM
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Replying to: LA_ICE (Jan 24, 2009 4:07 pm) Anyway, remove the clutch line. Take the cap off the top, and fill it with clean fluid. Have someone go into the car and depress the clutch pedal until you start to see fluid come out of the clutch cyl. To be honest, your best bet is to get a master cyl bleeding kit. It's basically a tube that screws into the clutch line opening on the cyl, and you put the end of the tube in a can of brake fluid. As you depress, it will push the air out, and when you release, it will suck in fluid. You keep doing this until you get ALL the air out. You'll want to disconnect the clutch line at the slave cyl, and then siphon (or force rather) fresh fluid through the clutch line at the master cyl side. When you think it's full, tape off the end (so it doesn't leak) and then quickly attach the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch master cyl. Hopefully, the clutch slave cyl doesn't need to be bled, and you can just hook the ine up directly. You should have plenty of clutch action at that point. |
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Replying to: todd82ta (Nov 21, 2007 10:04 am)
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Replying to: tattoojohnjohn (Feb 16, 2009 3:59 pm) It's not common for it to leak at the distributor, but it's still entirely possible. It's kind of a pain to get to, really, because you'll need to remove the cam cover as well. You definitely want to do this because you don't want any oil getting onto the timing belts, which would totally destroy your valves and possibly the cyl head. You'll want to order a gasket kit first, and then remove the timing cover. Just work slowly, and you'll see how to remove everything. (Take the distributor cap off first obviously). You'll want a cam gasket, and the camshaft seal gasket. You can get those cheap from 944Online.Com Hope that helps... |
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I just bought an 86 944, this car has been sitting for three years, and turns over when fed fuel through the air intake. I want to do the job right, and end up with a daily driver here. I have no idea what kinds of problems I am looking at, but I do want to equip myself with what I need to get started. How should I handle the fuel tank? Is it easy to remove, or should I try to clean it intact? I plan to clean the entire fuel system, but what kind of problems should I look for, injectors, dampers, pump, lines?? What is the best way to clean those lines?? I was told that the car would not hold a charge before it was parked three years ago. It would run, but after parked would need to be charged before it would start again. Battery will be replaced, but should this be an alternator problem or just a regulator? I will have the car at home this weds morning, but until then I am researching in the dark, and looking for advice. I
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Replying to: my_pet944car (Mar 02, 2009 7:03 am) You'll want to treat this just as you would any other vehicle that's been sitting for this long. However, there are several things that are critically important on a Porsche 944 that would otherwise not be so critical on other cars. Before I start, I just want to warn you... for a Porsche 944 that's been sitting, you're probably looking at close to $2,000 in parts, (not labor, it assumes you do it all yourself), minimum, to get the car running decently, and in the condition that you would feel proud to drive it. With that said... seriously consider if it's worth it to you to spend this kind of money, versus getting one that's already running and in decent shape on eBay or somewhere else. I TOTALLY know how it is. It's been the story of my life. I took a Porsche 944 that was complete, and ended up spending upwards of $4,000 on it... and the engine was SOLID, didn't have to tear into the motor, or the transmission. It still needed another good $1,000. I bought it for $1,200, spent $4,000 on it, and sold it for $2,100... yup... Anyway, to see the entire rebuild I did, go to http://www.PontiacPerformance.Net and click on Past Cars (it's all the way at the bottom). Anyway, to answer your question... the most critical thing on a Porsche 944 is the timing belt. It's an interference motor, so if the belt snaps, you destroy all your valves, and possibly the cyl head and pistons depending on the RPM of the engine at the time the belt snaps. Belt service usually costs around $350-500 for the minimal service. Since you have a 1986, you'll only need to go in once (all 1985.5 Porsche 944s got the belt tensioner which doesn't require the every 10k mile belt tensioning). Anyway, it's important that you get those belts inspected. There are two, one that goes to the cam and the crank, and the other that goes from the cam to the balancing shafts. You can inspect them by removing the timing cover. If you see that they're frayed, any cracks ANYWHERE, teeth missing on the belt, or they are excessively loose, then before you do ANYTHING, have it towed to a Porsche shop to have them replaced. Cars on eBay (if you were to resell them) are worth about $500 more JUST by providing proof that the belts have been changed within the past 2 years. As far as the fuel system goes. I wouldn't worry too much about it, but you'll want to drain the fuel tank. Disconnect the rubber hose that connects to the bottom of the fuel tank, and allow it all to drain into a pan (you can use it in your lawn mower). The fuel tank is a dry sump tank (excellent design), so it's easy to clean and drain. Basically, all the sediment leaves the tank continuously and gets filted through the fuel filter, rather than most tanks that are fed through the top (and all the sediment sits at the bottom). Definitely overengineered. In my opinion, I would recommend replacing all the rubber portions of your fuel system. That means EVERYTHING from the body lines (just forward of the transmission (which as you know is mounted in the rear) all the way to the fuel tank. This will cost you about $300 bucks in parts. It includes several pieces as well as a new fuel filter and the rubber hose that connects the tank to the external fuel pump (also a great design). You'll also want to replace the fuel lines from the body lines to the fuel rail in the engine compartment. A lot of people have lost their 944s due to this. Other than that, check your brakes, I would change all the fluids in the vehicle. Oil, gear oil, coolant, and brake fluid. Even change your power steering fluid. Change the plugs, wires, cap & rotor. There are also several components specific to this fuel injection design that can fail and can cause the fuel pump not to run. Before spending money on replacement parts, check to make sure that the fuel pump is in fact running. You said you can get it to run with stuff being sprayed in the throttle body. One thing to consider is this.. when you disconnect the air intake tube, you're bypassing the AFM (Air Flow Meter). This will prevent the car from being able to run (I assume you know this already). The other thing is... the fuel pump will not turn on if certain conditions are met. Do you have the factory alarm? (you would have a second door lock slot on the drivers side quarter just behind the drivers side door). This fails (often) and prevents the car from starting. If you don't have that, then the next thing is the DME. This relay (located under the dash) can fail, and will prevent the fuel pump from getting voltage. Yet ANOTHER thing that will prevent the car from running are the crank sensors. if they don't sense the crank moving, they won't provide power to the fuel pump either. The ECM is clearly moving as you are getting voltage to the ignition (obviously since you can get it to run with fuel). So I would check those. A quick easy way to tell if those are bad is to hook up a power lead directly from the battery, to the positive terminal on the fuel pump (located behind the rear passenger side wheel well). You can hook it up, and then quickly run around to the drivers side and try to start the car. If it runs, then you have a problem with those things I mentioned above. If you need new crank sensors (known as "reference sensors" you can get more information on my web site under Tech Articles. There are cheaper ones than the standard Porsche ones that work JUST as well. Chances are, depending on mileage and how long the car has sat, you'll also need a new AFM. They run about $350-400 bucks for a Porsche 944... yeah, I know... they can be rebuilt so you can get a good rebuilt one from a company named "Python" for about half that. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any specific questions... or need more help. It's a great car when it runs... Hopefully you don't have any sunroof leaks... otherwise you've got quite a bit more fun ahead of you. |
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I have an '84 944 with only 32K miles and tires are of 1987 vintage but look good ie no cracks or at least external dry rot. Also engine mounts are bad. Anyone remember if there was a problem with original engine mounts? Also any rec. for replacement tires if I decide to go that route?
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Replying to: heart2 (Mar 31, 2009 7:48 am) I've got a couple things I'd like to mention, but first I'll answer your question. With respect to the age of the tire, there is usually a date code that is imprinted on the tire. If the tire's age really is around 1987, then you won't be able to find this code. Realistically, if the car was stored indoors, especially climate controlled, then you likely won't see any cracking. However, the tires are still relatively dry and probably will fail in due time. Certainly not something you want on a performance car anyway. My recommendation is to replace them. I highly recommend going to TireRack.com. You DON'T need to buy them from there, but it will give you a good idea of what you want. Your tire size (if original) is 215/60/15. This was a very popular tire size back in the 80s for performance cars, like the Pontiac Fiero V6, the 944, and the Toyota Supra. This tire size really isn't as common anymore, but I know that they still sell some in that size. Pirelli has a nice tire that fits that size, and Goodyear has brought back their "Eagle GT" which was one of the more predominant tires of that era. They are relatively vintage looking (for that time frame) but with modern tread and materials. The Eagle GTs I think go for about $70 dollars a tire while the Pirellis go for about $160 a tire. It also depends on what you're looking for. I live in Fort Lauderdale so my cars will NEVER, EVER see snow. Because of that, the only tire I'm interested in is a performance tire that has good wet and dry adhesion. Basically, a NON-All Season tire. If you plan to drive in the snow, the High Performance All Season Eagle GTs, while not only a great price, are also probably the BEST tire for you. That's what I would recommend... at least on a stock tire, and if you're trying to keep the car period correct. (these are brand new tires manufactured within the last year, FYI). You can have these tires shipped to your house, or to an installer. Or, you can simply determine the tires you want, and then ask your favorite tire place to order them for you. If you car does have 32k miles, then it means (as you would know) that it's been garaged probably most of it's life. Even though the car runs really well right now, I have to warn you that your timing belts and many of the seals may be on the verge of failure. The 1984 Porsche 944 does not have an auto tensioner, and the belts must be changed every 35k miles or every 5 years as per the service card. If you still have your original belts in the car, I would recommend that the VERY FIRST THING YOU DO is to have them changed out. It costs about $500-600 dollars at the local Porsche dealership and then you must go back after 500 miles for retentioning (which is usually included in the original price). Please heed my warning on this. It would be a real shame to see a ~32k mile survior with a damaged cyl head show up on eBay... Todd
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Replying to: todd82ta (Mar 31, 2009 8:34 am)
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Replying to: heart2 (Mar 31, 2009 9:03 am) |
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Hi guys can anyone help? i have a 1982 944 and the problem started when my battery kept going flat and was not being re charged.So I bought a new battery and still the same so i bought a new alternator and still the same, when engine running the battery test results were showing just under 12v instead of about 14v? I have now noticed that when i turn the ignition onto the first click without the engine running the temperature shoots straight to red and i have no battery or oil light displayed on the dash. I have checked all ground points and they all seem to be ok? Any help will be greatly appreciated as it is driving me mad 
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