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Coupes & Convertibles Porsche 911 Porsche 944 and 924
86 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 5:35 PM
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Replying to: todd82ta (Sep 07, 2008 5:24 am) The blower FAN ,sounds to be the problem,since I removed the battery cable the fan turns off,attach the batter leads and on it goes. there is NO key or IGN on . So is it a RELAY? if so where is it located ? or the next step..... Tom |
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To lady in Milwaukee. If I had to do it again, I would spend more for a cleaner car, the devil is in the details. I have an early 83, I think, under the hood it says March 1982. I have a booklet, the types dimensions and tolerances put out for Porsche on 944's. It says for Model 82,83 . What is the difference and is my March 1982 referred to as an early 83? Jon
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Replying to: skidder440 (Sep 22, 2008 9:13 am) I kept some of the really rare pieces (like the Euro front bumper, etc). I do plan to get another one, but when I do I'll probably spend an extra 2 grand up front to save me from having to dump twice that into t later. I've learned that, at least on a 944... for every $1,000 you save, you end up spending $2,000 to bring it to the condition you would otherwise have if you spent the $1000 in the beginning. 
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What is the difference between the 82 and 83. What do I call my March 82 944, is that an early 83 or something else? I have the 3 blade fans. My vin is WPOAAO949DN450293 my original registration shows YR. Model 82. My 944 is slow off the line, kind of feels fuel starved, it bucks a bit. I have new fuel injectors. After that first 3 seconds or so it performs flawlessly. The car came in around Port Hueneme California. What site can I go to, to see the paint choices in 1982? They are slightly different from 83 I believe. I can see the names but not the paint chips.
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Replying to: skidder440 (Oct 01, 2008 10:04 am) The problem you're having is without a doubt, a problem with your AFM (Air Fuel Meter). That is that grey looking thing with the grey flap in it. It's inline of your intake and it bolts onto the back of your air box. Those get old, and the gradiated sensor on the door gets worn out. I was able to buy a rebuilt one by Python on eBay for $75 bucks. They are pretty expensive. A new one is about $250 bucks. But I guarantee to you that your car will run like brand new. Another thing to take a look at would be your "reference" sensors. They are located on top of the transmission bell-housing. They normally sell for something like $200 each, BUT... BMW used these same sensors in the 7 series model back in the early 80s. You can buy these for $75, and they are identical in every way... the only difference is that the length of the wires are a little bit longer, but that's not a problem. I would check the AFM first though. You could also need a new TPS (throttle position sensor). That's much cheaper, and easier to replace... but I still think it's your AFM. I would go to RennList.com |
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Dear Todd82ta: Thank you so much for that information, You should know I am so appreciative of this info.. I don't know how to thank you, unless on the slight chance you are a hunter, I have a large tract of land in Southern New Hampshire you could hunt on. I am Skidder440 with a 1982 model 944. Celebrating my 10th anniversary with my first and only, thanks for helping me to make it even better, it could use all the help. Jon
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Replying to: skidder440 (Oct 02, 2008 10:07 am) If you get bored, check out my site... lots of pictures of my 944 if you're curious about some of the work I've gone through fixing it up. http://www.PontiacPerformance.Net unfortunately, I don't have my 944 anymore, but you can see it if you click on "Past Cars" and scroll down to the bottom. |
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I live in galveston behind seawall and never had water this high since 1900 storm. in fact, never had water in garage since house built in 1901 whcih it has seen at least 7 large storms. i left the porsche in garage and the water got about 15" high, several inches under the fuses & relays-which they do not appear to be blown except 1 fuse which was replaced. the interior dried out nicely. The oil & filetr was changed. The battery was drained and it recharged fine. I have lights. The engine will not turn over and the only sound is the vent fan and what may be the gasoline pump. I do not see relay for starter listed in owner's manual? since the battery was drained, could the water over the starter fried the starter? or any other possibilities. Please Help! I have restored most of this car at cost of about 18k over last 15 years and really feel bad that we did not have the one more driver to get it to Houston before storm. Thanks Ted Labuzan
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Replying to: tlabuzan (Oct 03, 2008 6:09 pm)  Dolphins.NFL.com if you have any specific questions. Basically... the starter COULD very well have been damaged by the water. But you would more than likely at least hear something. There are some easy things you can check, but with respect to the starter itself, there are TWO things you can do. 1) You'll want to check that in fact the IGNITION wire is giving power to the starter. Of course, the heavy gauge battery cable connects to it directly, but secondly, when you start the car, you feed power to the solenoid / starter mechanism which engages the starter. I believe this is your problem. I don't think the starter is getting power from the ignition. 2) You can test the starter on a bench by jumping it with a car charger. Now, with respect to the ignition, there are TWO things that I can think of initially that would cause this. Does your car have the "factory alarm system"? If you see a lock that's on your drivers side, just behind the drivers side door (and not to be confused with the one in the door), then you have the factory alarm. These fail when they get wet, and I BELIEVE the control box is mounted somewhere on the passenger side floor (maybe under the seat?). Now, this alarm is an immobilizer that actually de-activates the ignition, preventing you from being able to start the car. The OTHER thing that might cause this, is the DME relay. You should always keep a spare with you, because these can tend to leave you stranded. If the DME relay isn't connected, it would prevent you from being able to start the car. In your car, it's in the second row of the fuse block (where the relays all are) and it's the long one in the back. Refer to the chart in your manual to see specifically where it is. Good luck! Todd
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Replying to: todd82ta (Oct 04, 2008 10:38 am)
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