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Porsche 944 and 924

86 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 5:35 PM
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Replying to: dark944 (Jul 21, 2009 4:28 pm) |
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Replying to: tdouble (Aug 01, 2009 10:28 am) |
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Replying to: msim (Jul 15, 2009 8:04 am) I'm led to believe that when you open a window or sun roof in the 944, it creates a differential pressure in the cabin. This tries to 'suck' hot engine air (not exhaust) in through the gear lever housing and gaiter. With a good seal on the gaiter, no fumes but a lot of heat. With any gaps, engine air gets in and smells. How dumb - open windows and it gets too hot. Haven't heard of a fix but I would havr thought that some sort of heat deflector could be rigged up under the gear lever ??? |
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I'm replacing the fuel pump and even though the new battery has 12.6 volts there is only 9.8 volts at the pump terminals with the pump hooked up. And it will not run and pump fuel. Out of the car the pump runs fine using a battery charger or battery and there is 12.6 volts at the pump terminals. If I'm losing voltage through the pump relay is there anyway to test the relay to see it it's the problem?
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Replying to: pdunk2009 (Sep 16, 2009 6:10 pm) The only way to really test it is to take it out and use a continuity voltage tester on it by providing switched power and a continuous hot and then just measure the voltage going into it and out of it. |
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I changed fuel pump and still not getting fuel, I have dme fuel relay but there are multiple relays under dash. How do I know one from the other? One relay is now causing a continuous buzzing when battery is connected after I removed that first relay at top left and plugged back in.
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Replying to: ohio1948 (Oct 06, 2009 1:23 pm) What you need to do is wire your fuel pump up manually. You can do this temporarily by feeding a wire through one of the drain holes in the rear fender (on the passenger side where the fuel pump is). Feed that wire through the inside of the car and have it coming out of the door jamb, into the cowl and hook it up directly to the battery. What you do is wire it up to the fuel pump (disconnect the lead on the fuel pump) and then get ready to start your car. Pop the hood, and hook that lead up directly to the batery. This will ENGAGE the fuel pump and the fuel pump will be running. At this point of course, the car will be off and the key will be in the OFF position. The fuel pump CAN run with the car off, it simply maintains pressure in the system. Now, make sure the wire is secure, get into the car, and try to start the car. If the car starts and runs, then you know all three things are true: A, fuel pump works, B: the car's ECM / Computer is good, and C: the car actually runs, which tells you all the OTHER possibly positives like... it's not a problem with the crank position sensors, or the AFM meter, or anything else. That will tell you RIGHT then and there that it's the DME relay. I sold my Porche a year ago so I can't tell you for sure which relay is the one that's the DME relay. I DO however seem to recall that it was the BIGGEST one that was located on the SECOND ROW in the back. Anyway, the above method is only TEMPORARY. You don't really want to do any driving around like this other than what is absolutely necessary. This is how I worked out all the problems on my own car (also an 84 Porsche 944). Trust me, it will be a huge relief to you when you get the car running at this point. If you do need new crank position sensors, you'll want to get the BMW replacements. They're the same as the Porsche ones, but 1/3rd the price. (worked on my Porsche and the car ran AWESOME). Check it out under the tech articles at http://www.PontiacPerformance.Net |
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People heres one for you. Got a 85 944 lux 2.5 auto the fuel pump relay has been by passed hence its running all the time, headlamps have been dim for 15 years and the previous owner has run the live from one to feed the other, that has been cut out, the h lamp switch when pressed on activated the h lamp motor, the live for the pump has been breached into the live from the washer jet motor. What electrics worked, side lamps, indicaters, reverse lamps and stop and tails electric windows dash lamps,rear fog lamps have never worked. the washers have been wired onto a switch on the centre console and all relays work (no AC not fitted) Yes the car is a project but a do-able one new auto box wheel bearings, torque converter and lots more. The problem, have changed the fuse boards wire for wire and checked the relays all ok a bit of a burn out on number five block at the first pin on the bottom and centre of the block, rewired soldered and lengthened, feeds going to all the main lives and voltage checked all pushing 13.5 plus volts, took clocks out and the rear mister wire has been breached to feed the fuel pump live??? i know, i now have clock, interior lamps no window motor and the main beam comes on when the left stalk is pulled towards the driver, no pop up lamps when h lamp switch pressed and still no rear foggs, all earth checked. I need to know the colour of the wires to the fuse board in order to chase the problem but unable to get the relevent colour codes andiagrams, haynes manual crap, Any ideas Porsche enthuasists.
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Replying to: 944project (Nov 04, 2009 2:18 pm) Unfortunately, you're probably going to have to tear out most of the interior to expose a lot of the wiring. I would even recommend maybe removing the dash so that you can have easy access. The dash is NOT hard to remove. It's only attached by 4 or 6 philips head screws if I remember correctly. You should have easy access to all of the wiring. You can actually TEST all the wiring (at the doors) where they connect to the harness inside the car by hooking up the leads to a 9 volt battery. A fresh 9 volt battery will provide enough power for you to be able to test the up and down motion (if this works, then you know that you won't need to open up the doors). You can also use a car battery with leads attached of course too. Anyway, once you've tested the wires at the door, you can then follow the harness all the way back behind the dash and to the fuse panel. I'm willing to bet that more than likely the problem is relays. The relays in the Porsche 924 / 944 are notorious for failing, plus the fact that the car is already 25 years old... Porsche rather over-engineered this car, and by doing so made it less reliable than it could have been. Almost everything is on a relay, and if you have an 85 vs an 85.5 then you have the old fuse block too... (if you have the old style interior, then you've got the old wiring harness). Anyway, I hope that helps some. Try to focus on one system at a time... you're going to have to take apart your interior (it's not hard, I gutted mine and then put it all back) in order to properly trace the wires. Good luck... |
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I have an 86 944, with a bunch of electrical problems. First the windows quit. That was some time ago. Recently I lost the wipers, both front and rear. The fogs have gone, the air blowers,and the ect. mirrors. I first cleaned 6 of the 7 grounds, checked all the fuses, and then all the relays for continuity,and cleaned the lugs, every thing checks out fine. I did find a squat item in with the relays called "spare links" Could this be the problem? can't figure out hoe to check it. Can anyone help with this? I have no idea what to do next. Help!!! Thanks Paul |
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