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Chevy Tahoe Dash Lights

22 messages,  Last post on Jan 10, 2013 at 3:46 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Tahoe, Lights, SUV

Messages Page 3 of 3

#13 of 22 Dash Board Control Lighting by lostwages100

Dec 03, 2010 (4:14 pm)

I own a 1995 Tahoe that I got a month ago and have the same lighting problem. The tach. is half dark, the radio is black, so is the climate controls. It's my understanding from the dealer that the bulbs are soldered to the boards, so you have to take each unit a part to make the repairs. Anyway, I'm beginning to think that the more lights that burn out the higher the wattage to the rest, causing the rest to burn out until the whole dash goes black. They all work off of the same dimmer control. So you may want to replace the burned out bulbs ASAP. Also, if you are going to all that work, you should do all the lights in that unit. Just an idea?

#14 of 22 Re: Dash Board Control Lighting [lostwages100] by tidester

Dec 03, 2010 (5:29 pm)

Replying to: lostwages100 (Dec 03, 2010 4:14 pm)
Anyway, I'm beginning to think that the more lights that burn out the higher the wattage to the rest, causing the rest to burn out until the whole dash goes black.
 
That won't happen if the lights are in parallel circuit unless your battery and alternator are seriously ill. If they were in series and one went out then all would go out -- at the same time.
 
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper

#17 of 22 Dash & Radio lighting update by lostwages100

Jan 03, 2012 (3:34 pm)

As you can read above, I've had instrument lighting problems with my 95 Tahoe two door. I've taken the dash apart and replaced all of the dash board, radio, temp. controls, headlight switch, rear hatch, rear wiper washer switches and window and door lock button lights with LED's. I used all blue LED's and really like how it looks now. The instrument panel lights I ordered plug in T10 LED's, and #74's for the Temperature controls and the rest are all 3mm blue LED's. The radio lights are soldered to the display PC Board and you will need to be knowledgeable about PC Board de-soldering, soldering, before you do this! The rear hatch and wiper washer switches require taking the switches apart to get to the bulbs and then de-soldering and soldering the new ones in place. Note you must get the polarity correct or they will not light up!~ The window and lock switches, headlight switch are socket bulbs that I was able to un-loop the wires, pull the old bulb and then install a 3mm LED and reset the wires. A little tricky, but doable. Note when you put them back in the switch to check the polarity...if it doesn't work the way you put it in, take it back out and rotate it 180 Deg. and try it again! One other note, if you go ahead with the radio lights make sure you get the polarity correct. LED bulb polarity is easy... the long lead is + and the short lead is -, the PC board traces can be identified knowing that the negative (-) side is always to the large area traces. And yes, the lighting is all dim-able, but will not go as low as the standard light bulbs did. Good luck! I'm still working on my 4 WD floor shifter lighting, dome lights and step well / door lights being blue! Also, I'm pulling the console on the ceiling to see if the map light switches are back lighted! The only inside lighting I will leave white will be the map lights and mirror switch, (you can't take apart the switch to change the bulbs)!
T10's and #74's from w.superbrightleds.com, 3mm blue LED's from w.led-switch.com

#18 of 22 Note on LED's by lostwages100

Jan 03, 2012 (3:48 pm)

Make sure you order 12 volt LED's! Also, I did not reuse the light bulb sockets for the radio lights, I just soldered them in at about the same height as the socket! One other bug to be worked out is the color of the radio display. It is not changeable....all I can think to do is put a dark blue, see through plastic sheet over it, like for a binder sheet?? I'm still thinking about it, I'm concerned about static??? I think it was on superbrightled's I saw a stick on colored tint for head lights...maybe that would be better? Please let me know if you have a better idea! Thanks!

#19 of 22 Lighting Update by lostwages100

Jan 05, 2012 (9:26 am)

Some things I forgot to tell you, make sure you order replacement sockets to match the T10 bulbs for the instrument panel, mine takes 6 of them. When you pick out the #74 LED's try to get one that is not focused from the tip, it will cause the temp controls to have bright spots! I ordered extra #74 LED's and plan on playing with some ideas to over come this problem, will let you know! I stated above that the LED's are dim-able, and they were on the radio and switches that I installed the plain LED's in, but when I installed the instrument panel lights the dimming stopped working. I have not figured out why yet....but will let you know! According to super brights website it should be dim-able! Ask me questions if you like, I'll try to answer you asap!

#20 of 22 Re: Lighting Update [lostwages100] by mdog6943

Feb 06, 2012 (10:35 am)

Replying to: lostwages100 (Jan 05, 2012 9:26 am)
I'm just about to change my dash lights also. Your post has been very helpful. I'm just wondering how many lights were in the instrument cluster and also how many were in the temp controls. Also how hard was it to do the temp controls? Thanks

#21 of 22 Re: Lighting Update [mdog6943] by lostwages100

Feb 06, 2012 (3:16 pm)

Replying to: mdog6943 (Feb 06, 2012 10:35 am)
Hi, If I recall correctly there are 6 lights for the Instrument cluster and 4 for the temp. controls. My temp control is all electric....I do not know if Chevy is using any other ones or not? The bulb sockets are located on the upper back side of the display. While you have the trim panel off for the instrument cluster you will be able to pull the TC forward after releasing the side tabs that hold the TC in place. I did mine without undoing the controller wire connectors, the sockets are half turn out and in. Make sure you get the right bulbs for the TC, they are smaller than the IC bulbs. Don't forget to lightly sand the end of the bulbs to help defuse the light, otherwise you'll get bright spots! One other thing I don't remember if I mentioned, when ordering your bulbs you only need to order the lowest brightness, the dimmer will not do much for you so going with really bright bulbs may cause night time driving problems. I haven't added a resister yet to help with the dimmer, but I will post that info when I do and how it's done! Please feel free to write me if you have any problems or more questions. Thanks, Bob

#22 of 22 Re: 2002 Tahoe Dash lights burning out [foreverbfc] by martsims

Jan 10, 2013 (3:46 pm)

Replying to: foreverbfc (Jun 02, 2006 11:05 pm)
Hi All,
I know this is an old post but just hoping I can help out with some info. I had the same problem of burned out button lights. On the HVAC control unit my rear defroster and A/C lights were out. In my unit the bulbs are soldered to the the circuit board. Went to Radio Shack and found these bulbs,
12V Micro lamps (2-Pack) Catalog #: 272-1092. $1.99 for 2 bulbs little time remove the old bulbs and solder in the new ones and the problem is fixed. It's not an unscrew or pop out fix but it is doable and not very difficult, just take your time. I decided to change all 4 "button" bulbs as long as I had it open, took about 15 mins. Hope this helps someone out good luck.

Messages Page 3 of 3

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