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You are in the Isuzu Trooper
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Jan 19, 2007 (6:49 pm)
Looking for assistance. My son is in Alaska going to college. It's below zero most the time. He has 1999 Isuzu Trooper. It hasn't started since Thanksgiving. Fuel line froze. It would turn over but would not start. Finally wore the battery down. Re-charged and still would not start. Now having a clicking noise coming from the starter area. Had battery checked OK. Pulled starter it's ok. Put on a new starter relay. Still just clicking noise from starter area. Help Please. Thanks
#5 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Jan 19, 2007 (7:49 pm)
This is a real shot in the dark but one time I got stuck on the Parks Highway after skiing into a friend's cabin for 3 days. Below zero most of the time. My minivan would not crank even with a jump when we got back to the highway. It just clicked too.
Some mechanic from Trapper Creek stopped and messed with the distributor cap and got the timing adjusted enough to get it going and I got back home fine. Or maybe he fixed a flaky ground while fooling with the cap, since clicking usually means the relay or starter solenoid. Since the starter checks out, I'd check the battery connections at both ends before checking the cap, but who knows.
Well, someone here should know better than me.
#6 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [steve_]
Jan 20, 2007 (8:22 am)
Thanks I'll have him take a look. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again. Butch
#7 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Jan 20, 2007 (8:33 am)
The "No Start" Problems discussion would be another good place to look for help until Atfdmike or Paisan stumbles in here.
#8 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch]
Jan 20, 2007 (3:59 pm)
Hi, How exactly was the starter checked? I ask because as was mentioned previously, your symptoms are generally due to a bad starter motor or solenoid, more likely the starter motor if you are hearing a click. There is a starter relay, I believe in the under hood fuse/relay box that may also click, but generally not as loud as the solenoid. Is that the relay you refer to? If you CAREFULLY jumper the starter solenoid by using CAREFULLY a heavy short screwdriver or such, to connect the two large threaded lugs on the back of the solenoid the starter motor should energise. Be extremely careful to ONLY jump these two items and not anything else or a dead short could occur. PLEASE don't attempt this if you are not confident that the vehicle is in neutral, or park, wheels chocked,and that it is safe to crank and start: if the ignition is on the engine will start if the starter motor is working. The large gage wire comes directly from the battery and is always at 12 volts. If the motor does not engage or sounds like it is spinning but not engaging the flywheel, then the bendix gear and assembly are frozen/bad. Can you be mistaking the spinning motor or not hearing it and think this is the clicking sound? Still need a starter at that point. If nothing happens, then still need a starter. IF it does start doing this, then the solenoid is bad, assuming the smaller gage wire on the back of the solenoid is plugged in to it. You can replace the solenoid, but it is still necessary to get access to the starter. Most people opt to replace starter and solenoid as a unit.
I hope this helps. Are you sure the fuel line is OK now? Cranking on a starter for long periods will overheat it and eventually kill it. Trying to crank with low voltage and a dragging starter have been known to keep an engine from starting due to the electonic ignition not having enough volts to fire the system. Good luck. If you need more help, post again. I don't have a manual at home for your vehicle, but will check again Monday at work. Let us know how you do...
#9 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [atfdmike]
Jan 20, 2007 (4:07 pm)
Thanks they did pull it off and had it checked at the local NAPA store. The vehicle will not crank at all. They did replace the stater relay still no luck. Thanks alot appreciate your thoughts. Butch
#10 of 109 Re: Starter Problems [jjoker]
Jan 20, 2007 (4:07 pm)
I know this is an older post, but the directions given by jjoker are great, and work just as given. I would add that once you have the starter loose and wires unhooked, rotating it 180 degrees from the original position allows you to move it forward and past the wire harness and axle. The Trick of turning the front wheels to the right is PERFECT. Once the starter is beyond the front of the motor and axle, you can turn it sideways and it slips between the draglink and driveshaft. What a lifesaver when dealing with an older vehicle. That exhaust removal would be a nightmare! Thanks jjoker. Kudos to your sharing this info.
#11 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch]
Jan 20, 2007 (4:20 pm)
OK, then I think the solenoid needs to be jumpered as I described in my post. This will tell you whether the motor is getting enough power from the battery. You don't mention if there is an alarm system or manual trans. There is a Neutral safety switch in an automatic, clutch disengage switch on the manual trans clutch that could prevent the solenoid from getting power. If you jump the solenoid and the starter works, then you know that for some reason the solenoid is not getting a signal to engage, which could be caused by the above items. The alarm system includes a starter disabler on some vehicles.
#12 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [atfdmike]
Jan 20, 2007 (4:31 pm)
It doesn't have an alarm system. But I'll forward your thoughts up to him. There is a clicking noise by the stater when the key is turned. Thanks again.
#13 of 109 Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch]
Jan 21, 2007 (1:52 pm)
the starter feed wire might be loose.. this takes 2 people 2 check first someone needs to climb under the truck on the passenger side, and wiggle the feed wire while the other starts the engine it might take a try or 2 but it should start. make sure the car has its e brake on and you secure the tires for safety. if it starts all you have to do is tighten it with a cresent wrench..