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Isuzu Trooper Start Problems

74 messages,  Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 10:20 AM

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What is this discussion about? Isuzu Trooper


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#1 of 74
Starter Problems by troopscoop8
Jun 01, 2006 (8:59 am)
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Trying to find out if I am wasting my time attempting to switch my starter out on my 00 trooper. I have the tools, but am unsure if it would be worth taking to the pro's to do. Is it possible to do? If so, how long will it take? Any recomendations??? Thanks,
 
                                        TroopScoop
#2 of 74
Re: Starter Problems [troopscoop8] by atfdmike
Jun 02, 2006 (6:49 am)
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Replying to: troopscoop8 (Jun 01, 2006 8:59 am)

Hi, I have included description of removal process. I have not done this, so I don't know if there are any shortcuts. Unfortunately, it appears that the exhaust has to be removed, but maybe you can figure out if it is absolutely necessary to remove it completely or just loosen it up to get enough wiggle room to drop the starter. The two links are to the schematics which are referred to by the directions. Good luck , and let us know what you decide to do.!
 
REMOVAL
Battery ground cable.
Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
 
Remove exhaust front left pipe (2).
Remove heat protector (3).
Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals "B" and "S" (4).
Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside (5).
  
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a5529d!v=
 
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a5529c!v=
 
Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine (6).
INSTALLATION
 
Install starter assembly (6).
Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque (5). Torque: 40 Nm (30 lb ft)
Reconnect the connectors to terminals "B" and "S" and tighten Terminals "B" to specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (80 lb in)
 Install heat protector (3).
Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque (2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 Nm (49 lb ft) Nuts Torque: 43 Nm (32 lb ft)
   
Connect Heated 02 Sensor connector (1).
Reconnect the battery ground cable.
#3 of 74
Re: Starter Problems [troopscoop8] by jjoker
Jun 02, 2006 (4:17 pm)
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Replying to: troopscoop8 (Jun 01, 2006 8:59 am)

TroopScoop,
 
  I have replaced the starter on a 1995 and a 1992 trooper and it isn't to much trouble. There is only two bolts that hold the starter up and you can get them out by using a long extension on your ratchet. You can remove the wires to the solenoid before or after you remove the mounting bolts, whatever is easier for you, BUT MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE CABLES FROM THE BATTERY unless you like to see sparks flying from under you car LOL. There is a trick I have learned to get the started out without removing any of the exhaust or A-Frame to the front left wheel. The starter must comes out twords the front of the vehicle. You have to remove a vaccum line that is in the front drive shaft. It sits on top of the shaft and goes straight down into it. You will see what I am talking about when you get under there. Then bend the bracket that holds a couple wire harnesses up slightly to make some more room. Now the Trick is to TURN the front wheels all the way to the RIGHT. This will make enough room for the starter to come out in between the front drive shaft and the steering linkages to the front wheels. You have to position the starter just right but trust me it comes out. Put the new one in the same way you removed the old one and your done. Since the starter is like $200.00 all by itself I would hate to see what they would charge you to replace it at a shop. Hope this helps. Good luck!!
#4 of 74
butchthefireman by firemanbutch
Jan 19, 2007 (6:49 pm)
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Looking for assistance. My son is in Alaska going to college. It's below zero most the time. He has 1999 Isuzu Trooper. It hasn't started since Thanksgiving. Fuel line froze. It would turn over but would not start. Finally wore the battery down. Re-charged and still would not start. Now having a clicking noise coming from the starter area. Had battery checked OK. Pulled starter it's ok. Put on a new starter relay. Still just clicking noise from starter area. Help Please. Thanks
#5 of 74
Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch] by steve_ HOST
Jan 19, 2007 (7:49 pm)
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Replying to: firemanbutch (Jan 19, 2007 6:49 pm)

This is a real shot in the dark but one time I got stuck on the Parks Highway after skiing into a friend's cabin for 3 days. Below zero most of the time. My minivan would not crank even with a jump when we got back to the highway. It just clicked too.
 
Some mechanic from Trapper Creek stopped and messed with the distributor cap and got the timing adjusted enough to get it going and I got back home fine. Or maybe he fixed a flaky ground while fooling with the cap, since clicking usually means the relay or starter solenoid. Since the starter checks out, I'd check the battery connections at both ends before checking the cap, but who knows.
 
Well, someone here should know better than me.
#6 of 74
Re: butchthefireman [steve_] by firemanbutch
Jan 20, 2007 (8:22 am)
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Replying to: steve_ (Jan 19, 2007 7:49 pm)

Thanks I'll have him take a look. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again. Butch
#7 of 74
Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch] by steve_ HOST
Jan 20, 2007 (8:33 am)
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Replying to: firemanbutch (Jan 20, 2007 8:22 am)

The "No Start" Problems discussion would be another good place to look for help until Atfdmike or Paisan stumbles in here.
#8 of 74
Re: butchthefireman [firemanbutch] by atfdmike
Jan 20, 2007 (3:59 pm)
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Replying to: firemanbutch (Jan 19, 2007 6:49 pm)

Hi, How exactly was the starter checked? I ask because as was mentioned previously, your symptoms are generally due to a bad starter motor or solenoid, more likely the starter motor if you are hearing a click. There is a starter relay, I believe in the under hood fuse/relay box that may also click, but generally not as loud as the solenoid. Is that the relay you refer to? If you CAREFULLY jumper the starter solenoid by using CAREFULLY a heavy short screwdriver or such, to connect the two large threaded lugs on the back of the solenoid the starter motor should energise. Be extremely careful to ONLY jump these two items and not anything else or a dead short could occur. PLEASE don't attempt this if you are not confident that the vehicle is in neutral, or park, wheels chocked,and that it is safe to crank and start: if the ignition is on the engine will start if the starter motor is working. The large gage wire comes directly from the battery and is always at 12 volts. If the motor does not engage or sounds like it is spinning but not engaging the flywheel, then the bendix gear and assembly are frozen/bad. Can you be mistaking the spinning motor or not hearing it and think this is the clicking sound? Still need a starter at that point. If nothing happens, then still need a starter. IF it does start doing this, then the solenoid is bad, assuming the smaller gage wire on the back of the solenoid is plugged in to it. You can replace the solenoid, but it is still necessary to get access to the starter. Most people opt to replace starter and solenoid as a unit.
I hope this helps. Are you sure the fuel line is OK now? Cranking on a starter for long periods will overheat it and eventually kill it. Trying to crank with low voltage and a dragging starter have been known to keep an engine from starting due to the electonic ignition not having enough volts to fire the system. Good luck. If you need more help, post again. I don't have a manual at home for your vehicle, but will check again Monday at work. Let us know how you do...
#9 of 74
Re: butchthefireman [atfdmike] by firemanbutch
Jan 20, 2007 (4:07 pm)
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Replying to: atfdmike (Jan 20, 2007 3:59 pm)

Thanks they did pull it off and had it checked at the local NAPA store. The vehicle will not crank at all. They did replace the stater relay still no luck. Thanks alot appreciate your thoughts. Butch
#10 of 74
Re: Starter Problems [jjoker] by atfdmike
Jan 20, 2007 (4:07 pm)
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Replying to: jjoker (Jun 02, 2006 4:17 pm)

I know this is an older post, but the directions given by jjoker are great, and work just as given. I would add that once you have the starter loose and wires unhooked, rotating it 180 degrees from the original position allows you to move it forward and past the wire harness and axle. The Trick of turning the front wheels to the right is PERFECT. Once the starter is beyond the front of the motor and axle, you can turn it sideways and it slips between the draglink and driveshaft. What a lifesaver when dealing with an older vehicle. That exhaust removal would be a nightmare! Thanks jjoker. Kudos to your sharing this info.

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