Last post on Feb 25, 2013 at 7:38 AM
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#100 of 108 Isuzu Trooper Ignition Switch/Starter Mystery
Dec 27, 2011 (2:45 pm)
I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper LS with a 24 valve DOHC Engine (I can't find a displacement in the manual). I've never tried to fix an electrical problem like this before.
1. The starter engages when the key gets to the "ON" position instead of the "START" position.
2. The starter sounds like its staying engaged the whole time.
3. When in gear I don't hear the starter, but when I put it into Neutral or Park it grinds.
This seemed like a straight forward ignition switch problem, however I just replaced it with a new part and the problem is still there. Any ideas or thoughts as to what could be making this happen?
#101 of 108 Re: 91 Troop 4 cyl. starting issues "click click click" [hackdad7725]
Jan 23, 2012 (8:52 am)
I was wondering if you were able to figure out the issue...My Trooper II has just started doing this. About a week ago it wouldn't start just "Click, Click,Click" was trying to turn over but wouldn't fire. I allowed it to just sit for seeveral days and then it started right up. The vehicle ran for a couple days and then sat for a week. When I tried to start it today if would not fire again. Any ideas of what to check? Can smell fuel so I know fuel pump is working...Any help is appreciated.
#102 of 108 Re: Starter Problems [jjoker]
Apr 07, 2012 (5:46 pm)
This neat little trick jjoker has posted does not seem to apply on my 97 SLX/Trooper.. Mines a deluxe with air + there's several hoses + an AC compressor to deal with.. It appears that the exhaust being dropped will allow enough room to snake it out, I hope.. I put PB Blaster on the studs + nuts; letting them soak overnight so I can break them lose, not break them off..
On 4-1-2012, I bought a NEW starter, (not rebuilt), from Auto Parts Warehouse for $88.00, found a discount coupon on-line for 10% off + final cost was $79.46 delivered to my front door by Fed-Ex in 2-3 days, with a 1 year warrantee..
Since I'm working with limited tools, this seems the best solution to my problems of a bad starter.. I hope Idon't have to drop the a-arm too..
#104 of 108 Warm restart problem with 3.0DTi diesel
Dec 01, 2012 (6:27 am)
Hello fellow Troopers,
I have a 1998 3.0DTi Trooper that starts OK from cold in under 2 seconds but when I restart it later after it has warmed up it refuses to cooperate. It just cranks on and on until the battery dies. As soon as the block reaches 70 degrees centigrade the engine will not restart. The engine is a 4JX1.
It has been at my local dealer for the last 4 weeks where they replaced 2 oil pressure sensors, changed the oil (for the 3rd & 4th time in less than 2 weeks) and replaced the oil puckup tube going to the injector hydraulic pump at the rear of the block (it was cracked & split at the top). All 4 injectors were replaced 3 weeks prior along with their seals and a new injector wiring loom as well.
A high pressure gauge was fitted to the injector hydraulic pump last week which showed the high pressure side as OK but the low pressure pipe only showing 10-20psi on the warm restart, 40psi minimum being needed apparently (70-80psi on cold start). The gearbox was dropped out yesterday to gain access to the small hydraulic pump and it's now assumed that a pressure relief valve within may be the cause of the warm restart failure. The workshop is now thinking of a change over engine and using all the new bits from my engine but I'm not really keen on this idea.
Has anyone here experienced similar warm restart problems in their (4jx1) 3.0 turbo diesel?
Perhaps someone here may know of a fix for the problem.
I will be most grateful for any assistance as I use my Trooper for my work, volunteer emergency work in the bushfire (wildfire) season of south eastern Australia and in leading offroad trips for my offroad club.
Hoping someone can help,
#106 of 108 2000 Trooper Won't Crank/Start/Complete Disabled after warm
Dec 05, 2012 (10:51 pm)
I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with Automatic, 4x4 and Torque on Demand system. 170k. Runs and Drives just fine, no check engine lights on... but when it warms up, and if I turn it off (light at the store) it won't crank back on unless I let it wait for 4 hours. Its either 3 or 4 hours, but seems more like 4. There is some consistent timer that goes off and seems to disable the system, because its very consistent and reliable (if you can call a problem that!!!)
I've read through all the forums i've found, and the best clues I've gotten are few and far between, like:
1. transmission oil temp sensor that's bad
2. Some problems with the heat shield on these, and it confuses electrical connections.
3. Something with the Torque on Demand System that disables the system if its not quite right.
This all started after flushing and changing the transmission fluid. Before that, the pan gasket was leaking and it started to slip because the tranny fluid was so low.
At first I thought it was a Anti-Theft problem,
but it has to do with the heating up and 4 hour wait. Because if I drive a short trip to the store, I can start it back up, every time.
Occasionally, the Torque on Demand light flashes "Check" very briefly and then goes off usually only when I'm in Drive waiting at a red light, and sometimes when just starting (like the fluid isn't sucking through the transmission correctly?) That's the only suspicious behavior it has. All gear shift fine, and runs fine, no other warning or console lights.
Has anyone seen this? Someone out there has got to know what this is. The symptoms are just too consistent.
Could this actually be a transmission-overheating issue?
Does any one recommend installing an extra tranny fluid cooler?
I'd really be grateful if there is anyone who's seen this before.
Thanks a bunch!!!
#107 of 108 Re: Isuzu Trooper Ignition Switch/Starter Mystery [jumeaux4]
Feb 23, 2013 (3:56 pm)
hey mate i think you need a solenoid on your starter
#108 of 108 Re: 2000 Trooper Won't Crank/Start/Complete Disabled after warm [eaglevisionzac]
Feb 25, 2013 (7:38 am)
I had a similar problem on my 97 Acura SLX/Trooper 3.2.. Cold, it started fine. Drive to spot + it wouldn't start.. If I let it sit for awhile, most of the time it started. One day it was just plain dead. I went underneath the drivers side + used a long flathead screwdriver to jump the solenoid + it fired right up. After that, I'd have to bang on the starter to get it to work. Finally, I found a new starter + solonoid for $80, no core + replaced it. Never had a problem since..