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Hybrid Vehicles Toyota Camry Hybrid Toyota Camry Hybrid MPG-Real World Numbers
856 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 8:38 AM
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Does anyone know whether the A/C is OFF or ON when the ECO is ON (display shows ECO) and the A/C is OFF? Is it better to have the ECO mode OFF or ON for FE when the A/C is OFF??
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Replying to: agnosto (Oct 23, 2006 4:09 am) I too await the answer from someone more knowledgable. |
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I no longer can post on the "other" hybrid forum but I know many of them check these postings so I'll answer their question as well as post info for regulars here on edmunds. They were concerned that the FE calculated manually is as much as 2mpg different from the computer reading. I've had the same experience. If you don't fill up to the exact same spot in the tank (really hard to ensure) you may be off from tank to tank by several tenths of a gallon. Also if you are filling a "short" tank, that is maybe only after 300 miles rather than 600 miles the error will be even further exagerated. Example: with 300 miles the difference in 36 mpg and 38 mpg is 0.4gallons. Typically you won't be off that much but the error from the last fill up can exagerate the current tank as well. My manual averages vary from 2 to 3 mpg low to 1 mpg high as compared to the computer. However, over time and 14,500 miles I have found that the computer is within 1 mpg of my manual calculation. Now here's the rub. I expect my manual calculation to be accurate. However several GPS owners and my self (bought a new GPS) have verified that the odometer reads 1.5% low. When I "correct" the manual calculations over the life of my TCH I have made up over half of the discripancy. For me, my lifetime averages are: 38.6 manual calculation 39.6 computer reading 39.2 "corrected" for odometer error There is still a difference, but I have found that the computer reading is closer than the manual. Bummer for a die-hard number freak like myself. I have not heard a good explaination about the rest of the error, but I know that in the natural gas business it's difficult to get an accurate measurement on a meter for low flows and high flows from the same meter. It's possible that the measurement of fuel usage (number of squirts from the FI nozzel)in the TCH has error in it and possibly in low fuel usage situation (pulse and glide) the computer may give inaccurate readings. Anyway, for what's it's worth, that's my 2cents on computer vrs manual calculations. By the Way, the speedometer also has about a 3mph error at 70mph. It does not effect anything but the speed reading as the odometer error appears to be tied to the computer. Also, the error in the speedo is in the opposite direction of the odometer error. Any correction in speedo (taller tires) makes the odometer error even further off.
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Replying to: wvgasguy (Oct 26, 2006 7:33 am) |
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Replying to: wvgasguy (Oct 26, 2006 7:33 am) ditto
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Replying to: jbollt (Oct 29, 2006 6:40 pm)
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1) Climbing a very long grade that will quickly deplete the battery -- it will be best to space out elecrtic assist evently through the whole climb than run efficiently for the fist half of it, and at some high RPM for the rest of it once the battery is spent. I read this on another post about wanting to have the ability to control manually when the battery would kick on for special circumstances. Those of you with the NAV system probably already know this, I'm not sure the dash display adequately shows this mode though for non-NAV systems. Typically when I am going up hill, reguardless of the grade, I am able to maintain a speed that not only gets me up the hill adequately quick, but recharges the battery at the same time. If I give it too much gas to speed up the battery goes to boost assist. I can let off a little and allow the ICE to generate excess hp with in turn allows the battery to charge while going uphill. Granted you may not go as fast as you want but it's possible to charge the battery in an uphill drive. Thus if you know there is a long strech of flat coming up and you want maximum battery charge available you can still achieve it. I live on a steep grade that typically costs me 0.1 mpg every time I drive home. Some times I make it up going down, but typically not as my ICE is running to warm up the car. However what usually hapens is that by the time I get up the hill, then next time I leave, I have a full green charge when I'm ready to pull out on the highway. This allows me to quickly speed up to the limit and back off and I am able to maintain between 40 to 50 mpg average FE all the way into town (4 miles) and at that point I can drive around town in E mode. It's not untypical for me to average 45 mpg on this regular frequent trip. I have found that I can pull away from a stop sign in E mode when the battery is full at a reasonably quick acceleration. (It is a small town though_people may be more patient_1 mile will take you around it_twice) |
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I have been manually calculating the MPG in my 07 TCH and I am consistently getting 33 to 34 MPG. The computer readout shows much higher. I found the post from "wvgasguy" very interesting; I am curious if anyone else is experiencing this low MPG in their Camry. I have close to 1700 miles on it...perhaps it will improve. I figured when I purchased the car that the window sticker of 38-41 MPG was very optimistic, and figured it was inflated by as much as 20%. In all the vehicles we have or currently own (Navigator, 4Runner, Caravan, Cougar, Impala) the vehicle calculated MPG are very, very, optimistic. I am curious as to how they are configured, if it is based off the fuel injector it would have to take in pulse duration, e.g. longer injector opening when the vehicle is cold and shorter duration when warm. I would think that some sort of flow meter for the fuel would be the most precise, going off injector pulse would only provide the open and close duration, and not the actual fuel volume that has passed through the injector. The way I am calculating my MPG is by filling up the tank and dividing my miles driven since last fillup by the gallons just put in. Overall, the 33 MPG are still pretty good for this size of vehicle. Co-workers are getting in the upper twenties on the highway in thier 4 cylinder Honda Accords, and my son is averaging around 20-22 MPG in his V6 Impala. If I had to do it all over again I would purchase the Camry again, the reason being the $2600.00 tax credit, low emissions, vehicle equipment/style, and the Toyota reputation for reliability. I purchased a GPS unit and will have to see how far off my speedometer is.
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Replying to: jsaladin (Nov 03, 2006 1:18 pm) 37 MPG. It all depends on the type of commute you have, the air in your tires, and your driving style. Only getting 33 or 34 means there is some combination of those issues that is driving your MPG lower. The TCH is actually the best job Toyota (or anyone) has done so far in making a hybrid vehicle which is VERY VERY close in real-world averages to the EPA estimated mileage. With the combined EPA at 39 and the real-world average at 37, the TCH is only about 5% lower than EPA.
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