Last post on Aug 30, 2013 at 12:55 PM
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Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
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#577 of 607 1996 Chevy Suburban 4WD slips into neutral
Oct 12, 2011 (8:51 am)
I have a 1996 Chevy Suburban K2500 7.4L 454 4X4 with 217000 miles. Originally, driving the truck to about 40 mph would appear to slip into neutral, while the speedometer kept climbing. Stepping on the gas made the speedo go faster, but the truck did not. Once you slowed down to about 20mph, it would make a very disturbing sound like it was slamming back into gear, and you could accelerate again. At first, you could engage 4WD and it would drive up to 70mph without slipping at all. It has deteriorated to a point that driving in 4WD does the same thing now. I didn't think it was the transmission, because it drove fine in 4WD for a long time, so I suspected the transfer case. I have inspected the transfer case, and the chain and gears seem to be in good condition. I was told it could be the TCCM or the transfer case mode fork or pads. The pads are a little worn and chipped, but is that sufficient wear to cause it to act like this? What is the function of the TCCM in this process? Where is the TCCM located? I was told in the door panel, and under the steering column, but haven't really located it yet.
What further steps can I take to troubleshoot this effectively?
Oct 22, 2011 (5:20 pm)
The Service Ride Control Warning light comes on when car is started.
How do I get rid of it?
This wheel was in trunk for an extended period with spare on the ground.
When tire was replaced and wheel put back in place - the warning light would not go off.
#579 of 607 TSB's for 2006 GM Full Size & Surburban
Dec 16, 2011 (11:36 pm)
There are 66~ TSB's for this vehicle, some are very minor, others not so much.
Here's just a couple;
Bulletin No: 08-07-30-016
Summary Description: DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION ON MH1, MN8, MT1, M15 TRANSMISSION SLIPS, WILL NOT SHIFT OR MAY OVERHEAT, SES/MIL MAY BE ILLUMINATED, DTCS P0218, P0894 SET. *PE UPDATED 8/12/08. *PE
Bulletin No: 4133
Summary Description: TRANSMISSION SLIPS, WILL NOT SHIFT, SES LIGHT MAY BE ILLUMINATED. *KB
Bulletin No: 060604042
LR4, LY2, L33, LH6, LM7, L59, LC9, LMG, LY5, LS2, LQ9, LQ4, L76, LY6 THROTTLE ACTUATOR CONTROL (TAC). MODULE CODES, MIL/SES DTC'S P2108, P1516, U0107, REDUCED ENGINE POWER. *KB
Bulletin No: 3893
LOSS OF IGNITION 1 VOLTAGE TO THE IGNITION COILS. CONSUMER EXPERIENCED INTERMITTENT STALL, MISFIRE, OR CRANK NO START. THERE MAY BE NO TROUBLE CODES SET. *KB UPDATED 3/17/09. *PE
Bulletin No: 50730017
4L60-E/4L65-E AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION/TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC) SHUDDER, WATER IN TRANSMISSION. *TT
Print out the ones your vehicle is showing symptoms, take it to the Best GM dealer nearby, take some Apples, Donuts or Eye-Candy for bribery purposes.
Sugar gets more results than bitchin.
#580 of 607 Re: electrical problem [tonedogz71]
Dec 29, 2011 (6:49 pm)
**DECEMBER 29th 2011** I had the same problem (2003 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 - Hit a bump, door chime dings, door locks cycle, ABS and brake light comes on, "Service Brake System" warning, and a few seconds of flashing CEL) and I fixed it. In my case I confirmed the location of the problem by wiggle testing with the car running, in drive, and with someone in the vehicle with their foot on the brake - when I wiggled the offending wire there was an additional warning about something like "Low Engine Power" and the vehicle stalled.
Here the issue/fix: If you remove the plastic cover on the motor (5/16" bolt) what appears to be a main harness that comes from the box just behind the battery crosses over the top of the engine. There are a few looms that branch off at the rear of the motor one of which contains a single wire (black w/ white stripe) that goes to ground on the rear of the motor just to the passenger side of center. The wire was corroded and heat damaged (dry, brittle) and easily broke off when I tugged on it (Only one strand of wire still still connected). The wire connects to the motor with a 13mm bolt vertically about four inches below the rear of the intake runners (I used a 1/4" drive 13mm deep socket with a three inch extension) It is a little awkward but still fairly easy to reach. I have no idea what system this wire is part of but when it was disconnected the car wouldn't start and then it didn't seem to recognize that the key was off and out of the ignition (The radio stayed on even after the door was opened and the CEL stayed lit), once I grounded the wire everything turned off. The wire was pretty much exact length so after I cut off the brittle part I had to add a length of wire so it was long enough to reach back to the bolt, I then crimped on a new ring connector, bolted it back on and the problem was solved.
I hope this helps.
#581 of 607 Re: electrical problem [dbat124]
Dec 29, 2011 (9:35 pm)
Fantastic that you found the issue, this could have taken a Tech expert years.
One point I'd like to make, crimping wires on low-voltage connections is risky.
A more permanent solution is to solder them. Wal-Mart has a Ronson Butane Lighter for three bucks, Lowes' has some small spools of acid-free silver solder.
Also, FYI a small break in the insulation on lo-volt wires can set up corrosion which is Not visible.
This is especially problematic on engine sensor wires where the voltage is often 5vdc or so.
On a Roadmaster SW, the ATS in the breather showed bad, a New unit still gave a code, checking the weather-tite connections indicated good conn, hmm..
A close look at the wire and an indention was there, someone had closed the wire between the breather lid [TBI Engine] looking at the indention and a small slit appeared, I opened up the insulation and it the wire was GREEN with corrosion.
30+yrs at Southern Co reminded me of a statement,
"electricity travels on the outside of the wire, not the inside"
The wire was not broken, the green stuff kept the 5v signal from traveling.
Cut it out, heat shrink up the wire, a dot of silver solder and it ran perfect, WITH the original ATS !
I'm SO happy someone used their head to find the issue, your method of wriggling the wires while in Drive with an assistant is a new one for me, and I've done this for over 5 decades..
#582 of 607 Re: Suburban front wheel bearing [ron152]
Dec 29, 2011 (9:50 pm)
"the left front wheel bearing is so bad it looks like the wheel is ready to fall off"
The following is for 2wd Only.
If yours is 4wd, another procedure is required.
The ball joint check for 4wd is not known by me.
The only way you'd know if the wheel brg is bad is to either Hear it or Jack it up and grab the top and bottom of the wheel to check for play.
If the wheel is sitting at an angle, then most likely your ball joint is worn out.
GM has a wear indicator built in ball joints, the grease fitting.
Clean the area around the grease fitting on the ball joints, wire brush them etc. Note the Hex on the fitting where it's screwed in.
If the bottom of the Hex on the grease fitting is flush with the ball joint, then the service life has been reached.
#583 of 607 Re: Suburban Drac Module [caesard3]
Dec 29, 2011 (10:56 pm)
Please put your Make, Model, year, AT or MT and 2wd/4wd when asking questions.
Your mech may be correct, many sensors, solenoids in the trans, , electrical wire connector problems, faulty ECM/PCM etc can all cause shifting issues.
also, [in 87-95 the TV Cable adjustment or TV may have debris]
However, it IS possible that the DRAC is sending erratic signals to your ECM/PCM .
GM issued a TSB for bad DRAC units, TSB Bulletin No.: 448301
Since I have NO idea what year you have, here's a generic usage of a DRAC
For several years, GM used a Digital Ratio Adapter Controller (DRAC), otherwise known as a speed buffer.
The buffer could fail in such a way that the signal to the instrument cluster was fine,
yet the signal into the computer was either erratic or nonexistent.
This would cause either no upshift or erratic shifting complaints.
And since the instrument cluster was providing a good vehicle speed signal, the buffer was often overlooked as being the cause of the problem.
#585 of 607 Oil leak on 2001 suburban, close to middle of vehicle
Jan 30, 2012 (6:35 am)
Suburban 2001 LT,
5.3 Ltr engine
My Suburban has a major oil leak but I cannot see where it is leaking from. With the car in park, if I idle for about 5 minutes it starts to leak like a faucet turned on just above a drip.
Probably related to this issue is the fact that the car has been loosing a large amount of coolant over the last few years. I usually only drive the car 2000 miles a year. Over a two week period I could have to put in 1/2 gallon of water, but sometimes it would be 2 months before I would need this much. It seems like in summer it would burn less. I did not see a leak anywhere or out of the weep hole. The coolant has likely been leaking into the engine oil, because the color quickly because a rust like color even soon after I change the oil. Also there would be some amount of gunk that would drain with the oil.
I have looked all around under the hood but it cannot be seen from there. Underneath the vehicle the oil is dripping closer to the middle of the vehicle, coming from right above the transmission pan. It is not transmission fluid and I have had several people verify the color matches the oil color on the dipstick, and not the transmission fluid color. It is coming from above the transmission and dripping right across the transmission cable and around that side of the transmission pan, but I cannot see above there.
Before I take it to a mechanic I would like to have a rough idea of what both of these problems could be: First the coolant leak, and secondly the oil leak. The first problem probably caused the second, and Iím sure I did not help matters by continuing to drive it for so long while the coolant leak was happening.
Can someone please reply with what the cause of these issues may be and any rough estimate on what it would cost to fix it?
#586 of 607 Any problems with 2011 suburbans?
Mar 05, 2012 (5:15 pm)
I'm on here to try and find some info on the new suburbans. I know the 2007 through 2010 suburbans are notorious to having many problems with the engine and electrical components along with oil consumption and door locks etc... I want to know if the newer suburbans 2010 and newer have any of these problems? So if you have anything please reply.