Last post on Aug 30, 2013 at 12:55 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#542 of 607 Suburban front wheel bearing
Sep 15, 2010 (4:18 am)
I bought a new 2007 Chevy Suburban that now has 27,000 miles and the left front wheel bearing is so bad it looks like the wheel is ready to fall off. I had to replace the front brake pads and rotors at 17,000 miles. Warranty wouldn't cover. Dealer said that was normal. I pull a 3000 lb. gross weight trailer once or twice a year for firewood maybe 10 miles max. My brother-in-law has a 2008 Chevy Avalanche with 62,000 miles and he's on his 5th set of brakes and has never towed. I had a 2005 Suburban that got 18 MPG on a trip, the 2007 with 4-cyl. mode only gets 14 MPG on the same trip (what gives?). I keep my Suburban and two other cars in my 3-car garage, never outside. The Suburban is rather rusty underneath, though I asked for undercoating when I bought it new, I was told that it's not necessary due to advanced corrosion resistant materials. The Suburban has never been to the beach or shore. My other vehicles do not show any rust and they've been around much longer. One is a Toyota that has 140,000 miles on it and all I ever did to it was tires, brake pads 35,000 mile intervals, oil changes and one set of wiper blades. Is GM putting out some real crap or what? I've been buying GM cars all my long life (I'm 63) but I don't believe I would ever buy another GM product. Does anyone else out there have these sorts of problems with their Suburban/Avalanche?
#543 of 607 Re: Suburban front wheel bearing [ron152]
Sep 15, 2010 (4:46 am)
If the rotor and pads were normal braking, and NOT associated with the bearing, then that would be normal wear and tear as all mfg's view it. I haven't wore thru pads yet, but most of my driving is highway driving.
As an owner of a 2007 Sub as well, your bearing statement concerns me, as well as it should you. If the bearing fails, you'll have a catastrophic failure with the possibility if driving causing a major accident. I would expect that you'd also have horrendous tire wear.
As far as I'm concerned, if you have a wheel bearing problem, that should be covered under warranty, that's not a wear and tear item. Your highway mileage could be greatly effected by a wheel bearing/alignment issue. I get around 19 on the highway, much better than my 97 Sub, or even my smaller Ford SUV.
#544 of 607 04 Suburban ABS, Traction Control, Ride Control
Oct 25, 2010 (9:26 am)
We have a 2004 Suburban that we use to tow a 30' travel trailer. A few months ago the brake control for the travel trailer stopped working. We replaced it with a new one, and then took the Suburban with trailer on a 1,000+ road trip. During the trip we discovered that the trailer cord that plugs into the back of the car had been dragging the ground, exposing the wires inside. We taped up the cord. A few weeks later the "service ride control" warning came on. A few weeks after that the "service stability" warning came on, and the ABS and stability lights illuminated. We took the car to a local shop that diagnosed it with a bad ABS control module. They said they could not diagnose the other problems until the module is replaced. This weekend we took the trailer out. When we plugged in the trailer cord to the car, the brake control installed on the dash began to smoke.
My question is are all of these problems related, or am I dealing with multiple, individual issues? Could the exposed trailer wires done something to the electrical system? Is it prudent to have the ABS module replaced and then go from there?
#545 of 607 Re: 04 Suburban ABS, Traction Control, Ride Control [04burb]
Oct 25, 2010 (9:49 am)
You should have had the dragging cable professionally repaired. They would have to carefully solder a repair and re-insulate each wire so that it is electrically insulated, and then once each of the wires was done, re-wrap the bundle. I suspect that a couple of those wires are shorting.
Depending how the short is actually being made, it could be providing voltage where there shouldn't be on a wire, or drawing too much current.
You need to treat these as individual issues, to fix each one. The trailer plug/cord can be rewired and then checked out to ensure no shorts, and all circuits working correctly for an external power source.
Disconnect the trailer brake unit so you are back to the OEM ABS unit only, and get that fixed. Now your tow vehicle is back to original specs.
Because your trailer brake unit was smoking, I would assume it's blown, and personally would just go get another new one. Add that into the vehicle, and then connect the trailer back together.
#546 of 607 Suburban 2500 (5.8 ltr, 8 cyl, yr 2000) using water???
Oct 26, 2010 (7:30 am)
My Suburban is using water. I probably have to put in 2 gallons every fill up, and have to constantly keep on top of it.
I have had the radiator replaced with a brand new one. And I never see any water puddles under the engine except a pretty sizable one that always forms under the AC compressor (hot, humid climate here) A couple of mechanics have checked it for engine problems (head gasket) and haven't found anything. (engine running smooth, etc)
Any ideas what to check?
#547 of 607 Re: Suburban 2500 (5.8 ltr, 8 cyl, yr 2000) using water??? [topstep]
Oct 26, 2010 (8:36 am)
It's either leaking out, or leaking in. That's a lot of water to have to fill up. Since you're not seeing it leaking out, I would suspect a head gasket problem, sucking coolant in, converting it to steam, and sending it out the exhaust pipe.
Guess you could try replacing the water pump and hoses, last ditch chance before tearing into the engine. But also verify that your heater cores are not leaking.
#548 of 607 Re: Suburban 2500 (5.8 ltr, 8 cyl, yr 2000) using water??? [kiawah]
Oct 26, 2010 (12:31 pm)
Never run the heater (and I'm not sure it even works) as this is a tropical climate. So how do you check to see if the heater cores are leaking?
#549 of 607 Re: Suburban 2500 (5.8 ltr, 8 cyl, yr 2000) using water??? [topstep]
Oct 26, 2010 (12:57 pm)
look for damp carpet in the footwell of front passenger, damp carpet in right rear 'way back', or leaking underneath the vehicle behind right rear wheel.
#550 of 607 maintenance issues
Nov 11, 2010 (9:31 am)
I had my intake gasket changed since then my check engine light came on and I checked it the code is p1345 camshaft to crankshaft correlation fault, what's this mean? Idk what happened or what's going on with it
#551 of 607 Re: maintenance issues [james198]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Nov 11, 2010 (9:52 am)
DTC P1345 Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation Circuit Description This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) monitors the crankshaft position (CKP) and the camshaft position (CMP) signals to determine if they are synchronized. If both signals are not observed by the control module within a narrow time window, the vehicle control module (VCM) will determine that an error has occurred. Conditions for Running the DTC The engine is running Conditions for Setting the DTC When the engine is running, the cam sensor reference pulse is not detected at the correct position relative to the crankshaft position sensor pulse. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) the first time the diagnostic runs and fails. The control module will set the DTC and records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores the failure information in the scan tools Freeze Frame/Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL or DTC The control module turns OFF the MIL after 3 consecutive drive trips when the test has run and passed. A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles. A warm-up cycle occurs when the coolant temperature has risen 22°C (40°F) from the startup coolant temperature and the engine coolant reaches a temperature that is more than 70°C (158°F) during the same ignition cycle. Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTCs. Diagnostic Aids Check the following items: A loose CMP sensor causing a variance in the sensor signal Excessive free play in the timing chain and gear assembly Incorrectly installed distributor - 1 tooth off in either advance or retard positions A loose distributor rotor on the distributor shaft A loose or missing distributor hold down bolt An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions: A poor connection Rubbed through wire insulation A broken wire inside the insulation