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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair
511 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 5:42 PM
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Replying to: ptynning (May 11, 2008 8:57 pm) |
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Replying to: arrie (Sep 08, 2009 7:28 pm) So I went home and reinstalled the original brakes exactly the way they were originally installed. Then I took my Suburban to a different Chevrolet dealer. I was told the problem was caused by excess rust and was asked if I go to the shore a lot. No, I have never taken my Suburban to the shore. Then do you park your car on a gravel driveway? Yes, I do. Then there's the answer to the problem! Are you kidding me??? I have have lived at my house for more than twenty years and have always had at least three cars at a time. I have never had any "rust" problems with any of my other cars, in fact, the Suburban has been parked there the least amount of time since it's my newest vehicle. When I originally purchased the Suburban, I asked to have it undercoated before I took delivery. I was told no one does that anymore. Cars are way more corrosion resistant then they used to be and it is no longer necessary. It's no wonder to me that GM now stands for Government Motors and they had to beg the government for billions of $ to continue operating and still declared bankruptcy. I have been buying GM cars for more than 40 years and they don't care if they lose yet another loyal customer. I'm happy to see Roger Penske came to his senses and backed away from buying out the Saturn brand. With the loss of Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Hummer, Saab, and Saturn, It's only a matter of time before GM is no more. The actual problem with my brakes is that both the original AND the after market brakes fit too tightly into the caliper support brackets preventing them from sliding away from the rotors when the brake is released. But, unfortunately, GM got their $47,000 and couldn't care less. And I don't care to buy another vehicle from them.
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Replying to: ron152 (Oct 06, 2009 4:16 am) Not that I'm suggesting one necessarily should be doing this on any vehicle design, but if you know that the problem is what you indicate, why don't you take a grinding wheel to the backing edge of the brake pad, and grind off enough so that you have enough clearance. I don't suspect it would take much, and would get you around this problem whether it is GM's problem, the mfg of the caliper, or the the mfg of the pad. I have an 08 Sub, but have not experienced this problem. It may be that I don't have enough miles yet to notice experience the wear, but I'll be sure to be on the lookout for it the first time I need to do the brakes. Thanks for the heads up.
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My wife's 1999 Chevy Suburban has a intermittent soft pedal problem at slow speed, with the ABS shuttling at the same time. I recently replaced the master cylinder, bench bled it, and had the brake lines to each wheel bled. But all that work had no effect on the problem, it is getting worse. The brake shop that did the bleed said I need to have the dealer scan for codes at the ABS module. He said something about the ABS system getting stuck in dump mode, which would give a soft pedal and the shuttling behavior. I need to get this fixed, my wife does not want to drive it in this condition. Any ideas on how to diagnose? Thanks.
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 06, 2009 4:28 am) Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about that, but since both the original AND the aftermarket brakes were too tight, I would have to do that everytime I put new brake pads on the car. So I spent a couple of hours and carefully filed a couple thousands of an inch off the caliper support brackets and they now work beautifully. I don't know if these parts slipped through inspection by the manufacturer of the parts or if it's a design flaw. But I shouldn't have any problems from now on. I think it's outrageous that I should have to do this to a new $47K vehicle. The brakes on the left front had gotten so hot from dragging that they cooked the rubber seals on the dual piston caliper. Neither of the GM Mr. Goodwrench mechanics noticed that even after I asked them to check it. |
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Replying to: blackpacific1 (Oct 06, 2009 5:16 am) I have to thank the local Chevy dealer service guy who told me that the salt belt rusted wheel speed sensor environment problem did not apply to my year (1999) Suburban. He suggested that I first jack the front end off the ground and wiggle the tires. The passenger side tire had no give when shaken in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. It had some give in the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, which could be attributed to steering linkage. But when I shook the driver's side tire, it did this; clunk-clunk, clunk-clunk in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Obviously a bad spindle bearing. It cost me about $175 to fix, but it was relatively easy. Loosen the hub nut and lugnuts, then jack the front end off the ground, remove wheel, depress brake caliper and disconnect caliper bolts, move caliper out of the way, remove the three hub bolts with an impact wrench, disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector, install new hub with the three bolts, wheel speed connector, caliper, etc....The three hub bolts did not want to come out. I hit all three with an impact wrench and 100psi, but only one came loose. I had my daughter pray while I torqued the two remaining with a breaker bar. Thankfully they backed out without stripping or snapping. |
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Hello All..... I am about to purhcase a used Sub. 07/08. Because I am looking at ones with a lot of options I am having to look at one with higher miles say in the 40-50K range. If these vehicles have been maintained is there any call for concern with reliability? The units that I have driven with those miles seem very solid compared to like competition. Thanks for any input |
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I have a question about my 2008 Suburban. Bought it used with 32000 miles on it. Anytime I gently presss the brake pedal I get a squeking noise, but as I press the pedal harder to actually stop the truck the squeak goes away. Called dealeship and they said it was just brake just and to go wash the discs off at a carwash. Didn't quite solve the problem. Thoughts. Anyone had this issue. Brakes work fine in terms fo slowing down truck and no wobbling in the steering wheel when brakes are applied.
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My burb stalled while driving around 35mph, would not start back up. Had about 2 bars on the gas gauge or 51 miles to empty. Check the fuel pressure at the sch valve and nothing. Towed to friends shop, checked pressure at valve by pressing center of valve and nothing, even when turning on the key. A day later after towing to another location, by buddy unplugged the regulator and plugged back in and he put the fuel pressure gauge and while he started it he noticed the fuel pressure getting stronger after each turn of the key, when the pressure got back up, everything started working. 2 days later all is well, runs normal. I replace the fuel filter also. Now the fuel psi is great while running, but when I turn it off it looses about 10 psi in about 10 minutes but starts back up. I did not want to replace the fuel pump just yet, 77000 miles. Also, when it stopped it was showing 51 miles to go on the digital gas gauge, so it was almost empty, I did about a gallon in and it did not help. But now it's fine, any thoughts?
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Replying to: ski1535 (Nov 23, 2009 5:01 pm) About $100 bucks in parts an .5 of an hour labor.
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