Last post on Aug 30, 2013 at 12:55 PM
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#492 of 607 1996 Tahoe Starting and Running Problems (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Aug 27, 2009 (2:27 pm)
My 1996 Tahoe was having terrible problems starting and running correctly. The initial diagnosis was the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. After almost $2000 dollars of replacing the sensor, engine tune-up, fuel filter and fuel pump I was still having the same problems, but not all the time. I had a local mechanic due the work and he said take it to Chevy and have them diagnose the problem, which they determined was still the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. Since my mechanic had done the original work I took the Tahoe back to him with the Chevy diagnosis problem. He crawled under the truck with it running and saw the sensor moving around while it was running. He took the sensor out and discovered that one of the mounting bolts screws into a brass fitting inside the plastic timing chain cover. The brass fitting was loose and just needed a screw driver inserted into it to spread it to increase the tension on the plastic cover. My mechanic put it back together and it resolved all my problems, meaning most of the $2000 dollars I had spent trying to fix a problem that ended up being caused by maybe a 25 cent brass fitting in a plastic cover. Live and Learn. By the way my 1996 Tahoe has almost 154000 miles on it with the original engine and transmission.
#493 of 607 6.2L Injector Pump
Aug 27, 2009 (3:50 pm)
I need to remove and replace my fuel injector pump on my 1990 6.2L diesel R1500 Suburban. Anyone caring to offer any helpful hints, dos and don'ts, would be most welcomed and greatly appreciated. Many thanks!
#494 of 607 2007 Suburban brake problem
Sep 07, 2009 (6:24 pm)
I have 17,000 miles on my 2007 Suburban, only used occasionally, usually on long highway trips. Already the front brakes were down to the metal (I never heard the warning squeal). I replaced the pads with heavy duty ceramic pads. I also replaced the rotors and abutment clips. I am not a professional mechanic but I've been doing my own brakes since 1961. Usually I can easily snap the pads into the abutment clips, but with this '07 Suburban the pads fit so tightly that I had to tap them in with a hammer. I'm concerned that they are so tight that they can't slide back from the rotors after releasing the brake pedal. This could make the brakes drag while I am driving.
I traded an '05 Suburban with only 11,000 miles for the '07 partially because I expected better gas mileage with the new engine that would run on four cylinders while cruising on the highway. I actually got 2-3 miles per gallon better on the '05 that ran on eight cylinders all the time. Now I wonder if it is because I'm constantly dragging the brakes. I'm tempted to grind down the ends of the pads so they won't fit so tightly in the abutment clips, but I'm nervous about tampering with brake parts. Has anyone heard of this problem and/or a fix? Thanks, Ron
#495 of 607 Re: 2007 Suburban brake problem [ron152]
Sep 07, 2009 (6:30 pm)
We're you getting a lot of brake dust, and heat from your rotors....those are usually telltale signs the pads aren't releasing.
I have an '07 as well, haven't seen any problems like you reference, but don't have that many miles as we only rarely use it, mostly for long trips and a few short trip major hauling..
#496 of 607 Re: 2007 Suburban brake problem [ron152]
Sep 08, 2009 (7:28 pm)
Why did you not take your truck to the dealer and have them change the brakes under warranty? Brakes are a wearing item but them going out in only 17 000 miles is not normal. Something is wrong for that to happen.
To compare with my '04 Tahoe I have 117 500 miles on it and the factory installed original brake pads look almost like new. They are not even close to half worn yet. I drive almost all (85%) highway and so don't use brakes a lot but 15% of 117 500 miles as city driving of the total mileage equals over 17 000 miles and as I said my brake pads are less than half worn. Rotors also look almost new.
#497 of 607 Re: # 6 CYLINDER NOT FIRING-P306 [ptynning]
Oct 03, 2009 (1:40 pm)
PTynning, were you able to troubleshoot? If so, what was your fix? Thanks...
#498 of 607 Re: 2007 Suburban brake problem [arrie]
Oct 06, 2009 (4:16 am)
I took my Suburban to a Chevrolet dealer along with the original brakes labeled as to where I removed them. I told them I didn't expect to be reimbursed for the aftermarket carbon ceramic brakes, I just wanted to know what caused the premature failure and uneven wear of the brake pads. I was told that since I installed aftermarket brake parts, I voided my factory warranty and they would have nothing to do with my problem.
So I went home and reinstalled the original brakes exactly the way they were originally installed. Then I took my Suburban to a different Chevrolet dealer. I was told the problem was caused by excess rust and was asked if I go to the shore a lot. No, I have never taken my Suburban to the shore. Then do you park your car on a gravel driveway? Yes, I do. Then there's the answer to the problem! Are you kidding me??? I have have lived at my house for more than twenty years and have always had at least three cars at a time. I have never had any "rust" problems with any of my other cars, in fact, the Suburban has been parked there the least amount of time since it's my newest vehicle.
When I originally purchased the Suburban, I asked to have it undercoated before I took delivery. I was told no one does that anymore. Cars are way more corrosion resistant then they used to be and it is no longer necessary. It's no wonder to me that GM now stands for Government Motors and they had to beg the government for billions of $ to continue operating and still declared bankruptcy. I have been buying GM cars for more than 40 years and they don't care if they lose yet another loyal customer. I'm happy to see Roger Penske came to his senses and backed away from buying out the Saturn brand. With the loss of Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Hummer, Saab, and Saturn, It's only a matter of time before GM is no more.
The actual problem with my brakes is that both the original AND the after market brakes fit too tightly into the caliper support brackets preventing them from sliding away from the rotors when the brake is released. But, unfortunately, GM got their $47,000 and couldn't care less. And I don't care to buy another vehicle from them.
#499 of 607 Re: 2007 Suburban brake problem [ron152]
Oct 06, 2009 (4:28 am)
Not that I'm suggesting one necessarily should be doing this on any vehicle design, but if you know that the problem is what you indicate, why don't you take a grinding wheel to the backing edge of the brake pad, and grind off enough so that you have enough clearance. I don't suspect it would take much, and would get you around this problem whether it is GM's problem, the mfg of the caliper, or the the mfg of the pad.
I have an 08 Sub, but have not experienced this problem. It may be that I don't have enough miles yet to notice experience the wear, but I'll be sure to be on the lookout for it the first time I need to do the brakes.
Thanks for the heads up.
Oct 06, 2009 (5:16 am)
My wife's 1999 Chevy Suburban has a intermittent soft pedal problem at slow speed, with the ABS shuttling at the same time. I recently replaced the master cylinder, bench bled it, and had the brake lines to each wheel bled. But all that work had no effect on the problem, it is getting worse. The brake shop that did the bleed said I need to have the dealer scan for codes at the ABS module. He said something about the ABS system getting stuck in dump mode, which would give a soft pedal and the shuttling behavior. I need to get this fixed, my wife does not want to drive it in this condition. Any ideas on how to diagnose? Thanks.
#501 of 607 Re: 2007 Suburban brake problem [kiawah]
Oct 06, 2009 (7:05 am)
Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about that, but since both the original AND the aftermarket brakes were too tight, I would have to do that everytime I put new brake pads on the car. So I spent a couple of hours and carefully filed a couple thousands of an inch off the caliper support brackets and they now work beautifully. I don't know if these parts slipped through inspection by the manufacturer of the parts or if it's a design flaw. But I shouldn't have any problems from now on. I think it's outrageous that I should have to do this to a new $47K vehicle.
The brakes on the left front had gotten so hot from dragging that they cooked the rubber seals on the dual piston caliper. Neither of the GM Mr. Goodwrench mechanics noticed that even after I asked them to check it.