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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair
511 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 5:42 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: martiinpanama (Jun 11, 2009 5:39 pm) ____________________________________________________________________ Base the money you may have to spend on repairs on how much the vehicle is worth now with the problem, and how much will it be worth if you fix it. You may find it is not worth it to spend more money. Might be time for something newer. |
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Replying to: martiinpanama (Jun 11, 2009 5:39 pm) Re-built is as good as new as what comes to rear axle. What wears out is wearing parts, i.e. bearings and gears. All these will be new with re-built axle. Almost sounds you mechanic wants to make more money with repairs that what you really need to spend. Who recommended bearing change in the first place and if bearings are good then what the heck is wrong? Arrie
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Replying to: arrie (Jun 18, 2009 8:25 pm) If you mean that the axles are bad, these are straight axles on a bearing, not CV types, so the only way they wear out is by being cut by bad bearings usually---or they can break. You really can't rebuild a solid steel shaft, so I don't know quite what your mechanic is referring to. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 07, 2009 8:27 am)  low speed on incline and felt almost like a loss of power husband trying to accelerate no response pushed pedal to floor revved to 5000rpm. Techs response to this was hmm that's weird....left the vehicle the dealership again to have service mgr take a look it...couldn't get it to repeat when he test drove again said it's normal. Is this normal drive response from a Sub? it just doesn't seem right that the shuddering times almost feels like the engine is loose at other times it is a slight shudder....is this just a by product of the 6 speed tran and flex fuel engine? Since there are no codes or TSB's on this the dealership does not feel it is an issue...Thanks for any thoughts...
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Replying to: zookpr46 (Jun 25, 2009 5:59 am) Sounds the same response from the dealer that I got with my '04 Tahoe. Because there was no trouble codes the dealer said there was nothing wrong with it. Well, I knew there was something wrong because my highway gas mileage went down to 13 mpg when for the first 1500 miles it was 17+ mpg. I fixed my truck while it was under warranty. It is fine now and I really like it. It just is that in 2 years I must get a new vehicle and it will not be from GM regardless how good it is when it works. I just can't take the risk of fixing a brand new $40000+ vehicle by myself under warranty because the dealer chooses not to. I am absolutely sure you have some sensor reading wrong or a bad wire connection (very likely). Sensor sends enough signal for the computer so that it does not know sensor actually is bad. Arrie
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Replying to: arrie (Jun 25, 2009 12:53 pm)  Dealer is no help after giving standard answers / doing standard stuff, tuneup, injector cleaning, no codes nothing else to do. Can you tell me what you did, with a little detail, to get your tahoe back to getting 17+? Thanks,
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Replying to: mo_shade_tree (Jul 23, 2009 10:45 am) 1. Make sure your intake manifold gasket is not leaking. Mine was leaking badly and was perhaps the biggest problem I had. Gasket bolts (10 pcs) have a special riser with thick rubber washer under them. When you tighten the bolts they tighten against the riser and are supposed to set the gap where the rubber washer is. My intake manifold obviously have manufacturing defect as on some of the holes where the bolt goes thru it never gets tight against rubber washer. It seems the plastic at some of the holes is too thin. My fix for this was that I cut the risers and removed the rubber washers so that I can tighten the bolts directly against the manifold. I also cut rubber gasket material to fit on both sides of the GM plastic "lip seal" gasket as it did not work well alone. My intake manifold gasket holds now. Leaking gasket causes manifold pressure to raise (vacuum is lower) and this will mess up with ignition timing. Leaking gasket can be also felt as jerking idle. First thing to do is to re-tighten the manifold gasket bolts. This is very easy job to do. You need 8 mm socket and "clicking" torque wrench. Haynes repair manual tells bolt tightening order and torque, which I used. Tightening is in two steps. First you tighten bolts to 44 in-lb and after that to 89 in-lb. 2. I purchased a set of racing spark plug wires that allowed me to remove the heat shields from around spark plug boots. This also is a very easy thing to do and I highly recommend doing this. Spark easily leaks around the boot to the heat shield and goes to ground as the shields are grounded with a small spring at the end of it. Any leak of spark means less spark at the point where it is needed, i.e. at the end of the spark plug inside the cylinder. 3. I changed the crank shaft position sensor. Sensor is located behind starter motor, which must be removed before you can get to the sensor. This sensor going bad can really mess thing up. 4. I found bad crimp connections on MAP sensor wire harness. This made me to solder almost all wires at harnesses. Crank shaft position sensor wire harness is the only one I have not done as that starter motor must come down even to get to the harness connector at the sensor. 5. I added oil charge in the A/C system. You would not believe how much fuel A/C system takes to run. You can test for this while driving just by turning A/C off while driving at constant speed on highway and looking at the instant fuel consumption display that these trucks still have. It sometimes looks like 15-20% better MPG when A/C is off. Making sure the compressor has good oil fill minimizes compressor friction. My MPG is 17+ at 78 MPH speed. And as I have Good Year Fortera tires I think it makes it even better as I have read under tire topics that Fortera tires cause loss in MPG by about 10%. This is what I remember right now. Arrie
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Replying to: arrie (Jul 23, 2009 2:37 pm) the dealer three times because sometimes, very random, when I start it in the morning, it makes, for a lack of better words, a snorting sound. I will bet that the compressor is probably low on oil & they are just waiting for it to fall apart. I now have a weekend project that hopefully won't get put on the back burner due to an unexpected "Honey-Doo" list. 
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Replying to: mo_shade_tree (Jul 24, 2009 6:27 am) The "snorting" sound can be coming from A/C system but it can also be from engine cooling system. I would definitely add oil charge in the A/C system especially if you have not done that yet at all. Get a good pressure gauge so that you do not over fill the system and just one can of oil charge should be enough. I have seen oil charge cans come with two viscosities. I use the higher one as the compressor has turned around quite a lot. I live in southern Louisiana and here the compressor runs pretty much every day. Arrie |
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| My 1996 Tahoe was having terrible problems starting and running correctly. The initial diagnosis was the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. After almost $2000 dollars of replacing the sensor, engine tune-up, fuel filter and fuel pump I was still having the same problems, but not all the time. I had a local mechanic due the work and he said take it to Chevy and have them diagnose the problem, which they determined was still the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. Since my mechanic had done the original work I took the Tahoe back to him with the Chevy diagnosis problem. He crawled under the truck with it running and saw the sensor moving around while it was running. He took the sensor out and discovered that one of the mounting bolts screws into a brass fitting inside the plastic timing chain cover. The brass fitting was loose and just needed a screw driver inserted into it to spread it to increase the tension on the plastic cover. My mechanic put it back together and it resolved all my problems, meaning most of the $2000 dollars I had spent trying to fix a problem that ended up being caused by maybe a 25 cent brass fitting in a plastic cover. Live and Learn. By the way my 1996 Tahoe has almost 154000 miles on it with the original engine and transmission. | |
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