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#356 of 607 Front Engine compartment ticking.
Nov 26, 2007 (2:23 pm)
First of all this is my first Big Block Chevy, the guy I got it from did a bunch of work but has conveniently lost the receipts.
What I have a 1994 7.4 454 V8 K2500 Suburban, Jeggs bottom end, edlebrock multi-port injection, edlebrock aluminum heads, shorty headers, MSD blaster coil, thats basically all I know.
first: The oil pressure is low, just above the red lines, but never goes any lower (at idle) driving around town it's about 1 notch under 40, and cold it's just under 60.
second: driving around town it runs great... no step hills, If I get on the highway and start going up a hill it starts ticking on the drivers side, if I give it more throttle it sounds almost like a knock, but no more power.
is the oil pressure normal?
whats that tick?
#357 of 607 Re: Front Engine compartment ticking. [rockrdr]
Nov 27, 2007 (1:54 am)
Lack of oil pressure could be due to worn camshaft bearings.
Nov 27, 2007 (8:27 am)
the guy I purchased it from said it had 15,000 miles, I run mobil 1 extended life 10/30,
also it sounds like its coming from the drivers side not really the center, but I could be wrong... wouldnt be the first time
#359 of 607 Re: Front Engine compartment ticking. [rockrdr]
Nov 27, 2007 (8:10 pm)
A ticking sound when accelerating is often caused by an exhaust leak, and sometimes occurs only when the engine is under a load. Check the gasket seal between the exhaust mainfold and the head, and on the round gasket between the exhaust mainfold and the exhaust pipe.
Also, big blocks especially had a habit of of breaking the exhaust bolts that keep the manifold on the head. Those bolts get red hot and if they aren't made of the right steel alloy they get brittle and break. Chevy used some bad ones for a while.
I'm not convinced your power problem and the ticking sound are related.
#360 of 607 Re: 2002 Suburban won't start when fuel level is 1/4 or lower [crandall]
Nov 29, 2007 (2:25 pm)
Sorry I didn't notice your post earlier, Crandall. I encountered the same condition with my 2002 Suburban . . . a very common problem on Chevrolet trucks at 80-90,000 miles.
The fuel gauge on your vehicle is integrated with the fuel pump, and is worn to the point of being defective. In essense, it is giving you a false reading at 1/4 tank, and the tank is close to empty. As you mentioned, adding a couple of gallons of fuel cures the problem temporarily.
A replacement pump from a dealer will be about $490, and around $350 aftermarket. I located the correct pump on eBay for $279 and had it installed for $200. A far cry from a dealer quote of $900. Check ebayconquestauto.com for a new AC Delco pump [factory]. 90% of all Suburbans are flex-fuel, which means the more expensive pump, part #MU1379. If your truck is a 'Z' code it is flex-fuel.
Since the pump is still operable, I recommend you keep the pump in your vehicle for those cross-country jaunts . . . you'll never find a flex-fuel pump in the middle of America when you need one! Incidentally, since the fuel pump is located in the tank, the only thing that cools the pump is the fuel. Keeping at least 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank at all times is the best way to extend the life of the pump . . . and you know you always have a little reserve for an emergency. I've tried to convey that message to others in the household to no avail!
#361 of 607 Re: '03 Suburban electrical/computer issues [northcliff]
Nov 30, 2007 (10:40 pm)
Regarding #1 if on your 03 Suburban. The problem is a wiper motor regulator, an electrical panel that is part of the motor housing. Same thing happened to me last year. Fortunately it was raining all day. replacement part cost about $106 from the dealer.
#362 of 607 Re: 2002 Suburban won't start when fuel level is 1/4 or lower [crandall]
Nov 30, 2007 (11:27 pm)
Yes, my 2003 has been doing this for over 2 years. It does this when the fuel gauge reads slightly less than half full. It also acts the same way sometimes when it is using a lot of fuel, driving fast, uphill, and/or with a boat behind even with a full tank. Often it will not stall but will only sputter. The temporary fix always works.
Shut off the engine if it was running and then bang on the bottom of the tank with your fist. If you don't shut if off, it banging won't fix it. For this reason I think that the fuel screen in the tank is becoming clogged and stopping the fuel flow lets the debris fall off. Mine may have started when I used fuel that had been in my boat tank. I've used lots of dry gas and sulfur cleaner and replaced filters to try to fix it.
Those who have replaced pumps probably had their tanks emptied and that would clear out debris. I'm just going to live with it. I haven't been able to get a hose into the tank to suck it out. It's not a bad idea to keep your tank 1/2 full anyhow. If I drove hills and fast highways and heavy loads a lot I'd probably dump the tank.
I've posted before on this condition.
Tell us what you do.
#363 of 607 Re: Cold Under Dash Draft [mr_tinkerer]
Dec 04, 2007 (5:42 pm)
Did you ever find an answer to the cold air on the passenger side problem. This is my problem and seems to be rather common? I don't have an answer...I need an answer.
#364 of 607 Transmission grinding
Dec 05, 2007 (8:12 pm)
Anyone ever heard of a turbo 400 trans (88 burb) that makes an odd high pitched grinding noise when shifting from 1-2 intermittently? The power delivery is still normal, but it grinds between shifts sometimes and I cant figure it out. Been doing this for the past 5,000 miles or so. Tranny fluid level is fine. It doesn't seem to be linked to any conditions, just once in a while I'll go a few miles with it grinding then it suddenly stops then returns some time later.
#365 of 607 Re: Transmission grinding [70ss454_man]
Dec 05, 2007 (8:41 pm)
If you haven't; make sure it's the tranny. Mine has a belt noise that's caused by the
air conditioning pump load. Might be a loose tensioner or bad pump.