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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair
446 messages, Last post on Oct 06, 2008 at 6:29 PM
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For the last month or so our 1999 Chevy Suburban has been having intermittent steering loss on curves and if you hit a groove or any imperfection in the road. We had some friends that had a problem with this same issue a few years ago and when he overcorrected after a curve they had a tragic accident that killed their 10 yr. old daughter. Has anyone else had this problem or know of a solution. The other family told me that Chevy knew of the problem, but it wasn't widespread enough for a recall. Any help would be appreciated. I have found information on the internet about a similar problem with the '99 Tahoe, but not Suburban.
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There are three of us in my town with identical '99 Suburbans....all having the same problem. Over about 68 mph, there is a vibration. Cannot feel in steering wheel, just in seat and entire vehicle vibrates. Seems to be coming from the rear. There are times when you get to about 75 that for a few seconds, it calms down and runs so smoothly, then 30 seconds later, here it comes again. We all have over 100,000 (mine is 135,000 and others are 105,000 and 112,000. (Mine started at about 130,000.)We have compared notes and have tried all the same repairs. Namely, tires, brake drums and shoes. Front hubs, rotors, calipers, pads. Alignments too many to mention including road force balance. I had my driveline rebalanced and new u-joints (Mine was the guineau pig for that repair). I had the rear axles pulled and saw some bearing wear, so replaced with axle saver bearings. NOTHING and I mean NOTHING has changed the vibration an iota. There have been three dealers involved and they can't find a thing. Among us, we've been to about another 15 shops. Now, if there's three of us with the same vehicle having the problem.........someone out there has the answer because they've been there and done that.
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Replying to: gangluff (Aug 10, 2007 4:37 pm) (what I'm driving at here is a vibration issue emanating from the engine, flywheel, clutch, motor mounts, gearbox, etc.) |
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Replying to: momof6 (Aug 06, 2007 4:44 am)
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Replying to: afarmelo (Aug 27, 2007 9:28 am) |
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Replying to: reg8 (Jul 28, 2007 7:47 am) |
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its a 1993 w/170k miles - 1/2 ton - automastic - 4x4 on acceleration it backfires at the carb (tbi), new map and egr, anyone have any ideas as to the cause - repair shop gave me a diagnosis of camshaft/valve springs/innition coil/etc, i dont think he is very knowledgeable in his trade, anyway anyone have any ideas???
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Replying to: btheodore (Sep 22, 2007 6:17 am) You could have a valve(s) that is sticking open and/or weak spring, or have a valve guide with wear and isn't allowing the valve to seal correctly, or multiple valve problems, etc. You could have slop in your timing chain, where the timing is varying all over the place. This would cause the timing between the crankshaft (pistons), and the camshaft (valves and distributor) to be off. You could have wear in your distributor, which would effect the timing between the camshaft and the distributor. You've got 170K miles on the engine, so any of these problems could be possible. Do a compression test on each cylinder, and see what that shows. That will tell you whether you have one cylinder with a problem (one lower than all the others), or across the board normal, or across the board low. |
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While driving at 25 mph my 99 Suburban's (110K miles): - RPM gage went to zero - Speedometer went to zero - Gear Position Indicator (red vertical bar) disappeared - SES & Check Gages lights came on Accelerator was less responsive at slower speeds. I was able to drive at normal speeds up a steep hill. It lasted about 2 miles. Will it happen again? 
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Replying to: franksd (Sep 26, 2007 11:29 am) With not a whole lot to go on, this could be a basic electrical problem (battery voltage, corrosion, fuse, electrical switch), or could be a problem with the instrument panel. I'd personally be leaning to a basic electrical problem, since if it was an instrument panel problem I don't believe it would also have effected your accelerator. If it was me, a start with a free test of the battery and alternator at autoparts chain (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc) to make sure that your main power was able to supply the correct voltage. Make sure the battery connections are clean with no corrosion. I'd then also pull and check with a meter any fuses associated with the instrument panel, or switched power that the keyswitch controls. If you find something fix it. If you find nothing, I would then pay particular attention for the next couple months to all electrical items, and make sure everything is working the way it is supposed to and there are no other 'symptoms' or problems that might give you another clue as to the cause of the first gauge problem. |
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