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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

600 messages,  Last post on May 18, 2013 at 8:46 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV

    
 
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Messages Page 60 of 60

#591 of 600 Chevy Suburban 2007 front differential question by oldestguy

Nov 23, 2012 (6:58 pm)

This vehicle at just over 50K developed a terrible clunk up front, generally well after a slight turn. Almost like what you get with a limited slip rear end jerks that has the wrong oil in it on a turn, only much more positive a jerk. Can be repeated intermittently or rapidly more rapid than the axle rpm. Sounds almost like a big hammer hitting something, all at under 25 mph. Have not dared to go faster. Showed up suddenly after sitting in garage, about a block down the street. Can go a few blocks, no problem, but comes back unexpectedly. No indicator light change.
 
When first shown up it appeared like I just drove over a big and solid something and it dragged underneath the engine a few feet. Nothing there.
 
30 miles before this it was on a 2000 mile Interstate trip (daughter driving). Nothing noticed then.
 
I suspect a very bad hub bearing, due to where it comes from, but could be from the front differential. Or a U-joint, but I have never experienced a bad U joint this bad a jerk. Will go to shop shortly, if I can get that far.
 
Goes into each setting of FWD in and out no trouble.
 
Is there a limited slip type differential? Inspection underneath shows nothing unusual

#592 of 600 Re: Chevy Suburban 2007 front differential question [oldestguy] by oldestguy

Nov 24, 2012 (10:45 am)

Replying to: oldestguy (Nov 23, 2012 6:58 pm)
OG again: On the question, well not a good one, since when not engaged for 4 x4 operation, the limteid slip, if there, would not be involved.
 
Instead, I also now wonder if the jerks come due to the 4H tying to engage, with that shifting piston acting up. Also, wold the switches be in the picture?

#593 of 600 Re: Chevy Suburban 2007 front differential question [oldestguy] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Nov 24, 2012 (11:33 am)

Replying to: oldestguy (Nov 24, 2012 10:45 am)
I wonder if in fact you still ARE in 4WD---sure sounds like it.

#594 of 600 2006 Reving Issue by rbethea

Nov 27, 2012 (11:46 am)

Hello! I have a 2006 Suburban and all of a sudden it appears to get stuck at 25-30 MPH and just constantly revs. It sounds like I am just flooring it. However, it does not accelerate. Then if I continue pressing the accelerator, it will eventually jump and speed up again. What could the issue be?

#595 of 600 Re: 2006 Reving Issue [rbethea] by flyb412

Nov 27, 2012 (3:19 pm)

Replying to: rbethea (Nov 27, 2012 11:46 am)
It could be the fuel filter. I'd change that first, cheaper than going into the injector pump.

#596 of 600 service 4 wheel drive light on by bigbuddy29

Mar 28, 2013 (2:55 pm)

i have a 2000 suburban the 4 wheel drive service light is on.

#597 of 600 1997 Chevy Suburban 2WD Barn Rehab by spriteman

May 17, 2013 (12:37 am)

Hello fellow motorheads,
 
I'm looking for a checklist for rehabbing a 97 Burb 2WD that's been sitting in a barn for 2.5 years. When the vehicle was put up everything was running normally but nothing was done to store it properly. What I'm looking for is a checklist that I can go through to make sure that I don't damage anything when getting it back running.
 
If any of the more capable techs here would respond I would really appreciate it. If you do respond could you include the priority of the steps. I am on a budget and I'm not sure I will be able to do everything on the first day. I will probably do most of the work to save on labor.
 
SM

#598 of 600 Re: 1997 Chevy Suburban 2WD Barn Rehab [spriteman] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

May 17, 2013 (9:17 am)

Replying to: spriteman (May 17, 2013 12:37 am)
Based on your estimate of 2.5 years of storage, I would do the following:
 
1. Drain fuel tank---either you'll have to suck the old fuel out with a pump or drop the tank. Add fresh fuel
 
2. Change fuel filter and buy a spare one
 
3. Replace the battery, clean the cable ends.
 
4. Remove the spark plugs and squirt a teaspoon of light oil (ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc) into each hole and let it sit for a little while. Replace plugs.
 
5. If you can, use a socket wrench to turn the engine by hand to make sure it is free. If so, go to #6
 
6. Check oil and coolant levels
 
7. Crank 'er up. Have a fire extinguisher at hand if you can.
 
8. Once it starts, let the engine idle, and check for fuel, oil, coolant leaks. CHECK THE BRAKE PEDAL for firmness. CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSURE warning light.
 
Phase II
 
Once running, take the car out for a short drive. Check the tires to see if they have sidewall cracks or if they are heavily flat-spotted (you'll feel that as you drive). Minor little cracks might be okay. Flat-spotting may improve as you drive.
 
After returning to the storage area, drain the oil and filter.
 
Phase III
 
After you are sure the truck can run reliably and start reliably, you have the option of draining the coolant and flushing the brake system, based on your own observations and judgment.
 
If the thumping and flat-spotting has not gone away with regard to tires, you'll have to replace them.
 
If the coolant hoses seems old and squishy to the touch, or if the drive belts are glazed or cracked, replace them.

#599 of 600 Re: 1997 Chevy Suburban 2WD Barn Rehab [Mr_Shiftright] by spriteman

May 17, 2013 (12:17 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 17, 2013 9:17 am)
Thanks for the great reply Shiftright - I will be tackling this soon.
 
SM

#600 of 600 Re: 1997 Chevy Suburban 2WD Barn Rehab [spriteman] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

May 18, 2013 (8:46 am)

Replying to: spriteman (May 17, 2013 12:17 pm)
Okay, work safely with gasoline! Sometimes rodents can chew up electrical or fuel lines.

Messages Page 60 of 60

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