Last post on Aug 08, 2013 at 1:57 PM
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Hyundai Tiburon, Coupe
#67 of 174 Fixing your premature clutch failures..2003- and on Tiburon 4 and 6 Cyl.
Feb 18, 2009 (1:38 am)
The 2003 in particular had several electrical faults, and of course the clutch failures on both the 4 and 6 cylinder engines.
I HAVE a solution..THE solution.
I personally own a 2004 Tiburon 2.0L, with a 5 speed so I speak with experience.
I also have spoke to other fellow Tibby owners with the same issue and figured adding my info in this forum might be useful.
When I bought my Tib in Feburary 2006, it had 16K miles on the clock.
I also noticed when I drove it, the clutch didnt feel right.. Like nothing Ive ever driven, and Ive owned many manual transmission based cars.
The clutch action made a novice drive like a pro, and an expert drive like a novice.
I was thinking something was off immediately.
Hyundai made the clutch smooth, but at a cost.
Slipping on every shift!
Now on to the solution.
There is a little part located in your clutch slave cylinder called a "delay valve".
The part has a small hole in it, and a spring.
The clutch slave cylinder in and of itself is pretty simple.
Dont confuse it with the clutch MASTER cylinder located on the cars firewall.
Just remove the slave cylinder, unbolt the side with the hose on it, and you should see it, (the valve) and a small spring.
Once these are out, and you have properly installed and done an air bleed of the slave prepare to be amazed!
The car will now shift properly, with positive shifts, NO slipping,better fuel economy, more power, and perfect clutch feel!
TRUST ME.. This works perfectly and is totally safe.
My car has over 40K on it now and not a single lick of trouble.
I cant remember the name of the site I found this info, but it was very new at the time, and im sure I would have found this solution myself given alittle time.
I give kudos to the guy that found out the solution before I did.
If I had the link, there is a full, photographs and all, website that has step by step of how to do this.
But, you can also do it simply by buying a service manual.
This is the absolute best "Mod" you can do for your Tibby.
I wish Hyundai would just admit to the issue, as the solution is so painfully easy to solve its kind of silly.
Say goodbye to clutch wear, and hello to a car with added performance you havent met yet.
Word of caution.. If you have replaced your clutch, or have a badly worn clutch, this mod will save your existing clutch, but if its already so bad that most of the clutch friction material, or the flywheel has been overheated bad enough to cause judder, you will still need to replace the clutch and possibly the flywheel.
If you catch it soon enough with the mod, you could get tens of thousands of addtional miles before having to do your clutch!
Each situation will vary.. but for the love of god.. REMOVE THE VALVE!
#68 of 174 unsatisfied customer
Apr 01, 2009 (7:36 am)
I have a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon (53,000 miles) that was just taken into dealership with Clutch and Flywheel problems. Both are not covered under warranty.
I have also had to replace the steering wheel rack at 42,000 miles. Very costly repairs.
Has anyone else had clutch problems with their 2005 Tiburons?
#69 of 174 Re: unsatisfied customer [4bakrs]
Apr 02, 2009 (3:31 am)
I have a 2006 tiburon, 6 cyclinder that had 23,000 miles on it and Hyundai said it would cost $2400 to repair, they never gave me anything in writing, I took my car to local mechanic and they repaired once using aluminum CLutch master fly wheel, which didn't last, had to be replaced by steel one which now has 5000 mile on it. I took my case to auto better business hot line and got re-imbursed for most of the cost, Also in warranty book it says it does cover clutch lining which is a cheap part. It doesn't say anything about rest of clutch which is flywheel etc.
#70 of 174 Re: Fixing your premature clutch failures..2003- and on Tiburon 4 and 6 Cyl. [jemtec]
Apr 17, 2009 (8:38 pm)
Can you email me personally about this? I have an '07 GS with no problem... Yet, but I notice when I "Rev" it out to redline and try to quick shift into second that I hear a grind. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet and I don't beat my car at all. I have almost 38,000 mile on it and want to know if I can do that to my car. email is joeymetsfan7232yahoo.com. Thanks.
#71 of 174 Hate to say it...
Apr 19, 2009 (9:28 am)
...but Hyundai definitely cuts corners on certain components to keep their costs down, and two of these main components happen to be the clutch.flywheel assembly and the suspension on all but the Genesis.
There's a reason why Hyundais do well in initial quality, but clutch, suspension and electrical problems mount significantly over times.
Plotted on a chart, Hyundai remains flat during years 1 through 2, ticks upwards in year three, and takes off in a nasty upward direction in years 4 and beyond.
#72 of 174 Re: Fixing your premature clutch failures..2003- and on Tiburon 4 and 6 Cyl. [jemtec]
Apr 20, 2009 (1:39 pm)
I have a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT, and I have very bad clutch problems. The clutch has been replaced. I read on your post, and it said to look for the delay valve in the slave cylinder. Do i just take out the delay valve and the spring and reinstall?
May 27, 2009 (2:17 am)
I have a 2003 V6 5 speed Tibruon and it is the first standard i have owned. I have roughly 50k miles on it right now and the only problem i am having right now is that it will pop out of 4th gear from time to time. I dont know if this means the clutch is going or what. That is my only problem right now, in the past they had to replace my driver side window motor a year after i bought it. I bought this car in 03 with only 11 miles on it. Any help with what is going wrong with it would be much appreciated.
#74 of 174 Re: Anybody having clutch problems with 2007 Tiburons? [tteva]
Jun 22, 2009 (3:01 pm)
This might sound strange. You had air in your brake fluid. There is no mechanical linkage from your clutch to your tranny (its hydrolic) and uses the brake fluid. Anyway, you get air in the line and it wont have the pressure to push the clutch or push the clutch pedal back out. After the bubble escaped out the reservoir it was able to build pressure again essentialy fixing its self! If you have that problem again first make sure your brake fluid reservoir is full. If you have this problem again bleed the line out and it should fix it.
#75 of 174 03 Tiburon clutch
Aug 01, 2009 (1:35 pm)
I recently replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel for my 03 Tiburon with a grip force stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel. my problem is that now that I have everything installed, I have no back pressure when I press on the clutch pedal. At first I thought that there was an air bubble in the hose, but that's not the case. Any suggestions?
Sep 08, 2009 (2:56 am)
My daughter owns a GT Shark. About a year ago, she had the clutch replaced and is now at about 76K miles. At that time they also replaced master or slave cylinders or maybe it was both.
She recently started experiencing a problem. Sometimes it was hard to get in gear, gear grinding, and other times it would rev as if the clutch had not engaged. The problem is intermittent and the dealer said they could not find a problem. She took it to another mechanic and have changed the slave twice without success. And now has an added problem of not wanting to start sometimes as if the clutch is not being depressed.
I realize this info is partial, but would appreciate any input.
How in the world does a clutch fail to engage or disengage as a single problem?
My only suspicion is that somehow the throw-out bearing is sticking on the shaft. So I'm looking for other possibilities and any knowledge of how this assembly is constructed. My knowledge is from previous times where a fork compressed the clutch plate away from the flywheel. The clutch plate was splined to the output shaft. In some designs the plate slid on the splined shaft.
And now there is the no start issue. Does anyone know where that safety switch is located?
Some designs had it located near the brake switch, on the interior. If your linkage went bad, you defeated the safety switch. With mechanical linkage, they might be put anywhere along the linkage including at the clutch. With hydraulic, it could be put at the master or slave cylinders. For the highest degree of safety, it would seem they would put it at the output of the slave. I have no idea how the slave actuates, is connected, to the clutch. I remember one where the slave would make direct contact with the fork, but have no idea if someone came up with one of those "better ideas". (other than the one everyone hear seems to have)