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Hyundai Tiburon Clutch Problems

172 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2012 at 6:05 AM

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What is this discussion about? Hyundai Tiburon, Coupe

Messages Page 13 of 18

#119 of 172 Re: Anybody having clutch problems with 2007 Tiburons? [janny225] by bhoose

Aug 24, 2011 (1:27 pm)

Replying to: janny225 (Nov 30, 2010 1:13 pm)
I have a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon that has just hit 68,000 miles and I have now replaced the clutch three times! Hyundai won't replace a damn thing. They say it's my fault. I mean sure, I like to down shift when jumping on the highway, but who doesn't? I don't drive the car hard. Even IF I did, how the hell can you burn through 3 "good quality clutches" in such a short time? I would avoid these cars all together if possible, but if stuck with a payment, I would reccommend an aftermarket clutch and flywheel. The factory ones that Hyundai puts on your car will jusy for be shot again in no time. I bought an F1 stage one racing clutch kit of of e-bay for less than 120 bucks AFTER shipping. It's cheaper, it they actually work! Hyundai dealers are worthless *******, just like the parts that they manufacture. Really, that is the only major problem I have had with the car. Everything else has been great. I know some of my friends who drive 03s have issues with brakes. They also have more miles on their car than I do. Hyundai doesn't care about you! As soon as it's paid off, I'm trading it in for a Camaro.

#120 of 172 Re: Anybody having clutch problems with 2007 Tiburons? [bhoose] by jemtec

Jan 20, 2011 (7:00 pm)

Replying to: bhoose (Aug 24, 2011 1:27 pm)
Remove the clutch slave cylinder spring and delay valve the factory installed as Original Equipment.
ANY time you use the clutch, it actually ruins it by making it sliip for an excessive period of time until it fully releases.
Depending on RPM, the destruction of clutch material on the disc results in other damage to the Pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing as the loads change rapidly due to wear.
The part is simple to remove, and will stop all the wear you are encountering.
Yep.. this is a stupid engineering idea for them to put a "delay" valve to improve clutch "feel" at the cost of major wear.
Do the mod, and your clutch will feel like a normal clutch, with perfect engagement.
I agree that Hyundai should have done a recall on this part and eliminated it from the car altogether.
I have over 60K on mine and never had a clutch fail.
But it would have otherwise with the delay valve.
Just remove the slave cylinder, unbolt the banjo fitting and remove the little spring and its part with the hole in it.
Put it all back together and refill and bleed your brake fluid.
Add a touch of grease on the tip that contacts the clutch fork.
Good luck.

#121 of 172 Re: the tiburon is a great car [01tib] by seanyourwong

Jan 26, 2011 (4:55 pm)

Replying to: 01tib (Dec 21, 2007 4:09 am)
i just had to sign up to tell u your wrong. The problem is with the bearing and pressure plate unfortunately the I O D of the pressure plate is to large causing a bind on the fork and cannot smoothly engage the pad and flywheel this is what causes the slip and the heat fractures "prematurely" and causes supposed failure however they can be machined for around 60 bucks.
 
Hyundai should stick to something a bit easier like maybe go carts if you want to buy a car by a honda and leave the loud mufflers and wheels for the Hyundai guys, those cars wont be around to much longer thank god.

#122 of 172 Not exactly.. by jemtec

Jan 27, 2011 (3:08 am)

The problem with the clutch to begin with IS indeed beginning with the clutch slave delay valve.
If there is an additional design flaw with the clutch fork and throwout alignment, that is the result of the overheating and warping in the first place caused by the intended, "slipping" Hyundai designed into the clutch system to improve clutch feel.
If the I O D is off, it will only make the problem worse.
It is not likely the general cause.
Anytime metal is fatigued with overheating, warping can cause all kinds of interference issues.
The INTENTIONAL design of slippage causes serious heat damage.
So.. no.. I am not wrong and you are not completely right.
You didnt consider the repercussions of just the act of overheating the clutch in general.
It is the cause of ALL clutch failure to the disc, at the pressure plate and the flywheel.
Your added info is interesting, but it is NOT the end failure result by itself.
It is only magnifying the problem by that stupid delay valve.
Yes, I believe Hyundai should rectify this regardless.
 

#123 of 172 slipping clutch by 63taz

Jan 29, 2011 (7:10 pm)

I've got an 06 gt tiburon....I love the vehicle .... today my husband complained about the clutch slipping and a terrible smell when he downshifted to pass and went back up into 5th gear. I have just over 103,000 miles on this car and knock on wood this is the very first issue I've had with it. If we do the slave cylinder mod now will it help.... I haven't noticed any slipping and I'm the one who drives it everyday but in the last 2 years haven't done as many trips as I had been doing. This is the very first time I've had this problem and the clutch burning smell.

#124 of 172 Re: slipping clutch [63taz] by jemtec

Jan 30, 2011 (3:03 am)

Replying to: 63taz (Jan 29, 2011 7:10 pm)
Well, it sounds like in your situation, the clutch is finally worn out.
If you were doing a great deal of Hwy driving, that is likely why your clutch has lasted as long as it has.
There is typically little shifting done when you do long road trips.
If you had removed the clutch slave delay valve early in the car's life, your clutch would be fine.
But, not alot of people know about this problem.
If you are careful, and don't continue to drive on the clutch with its current condition, you might be able to get away with only a resurface of your flywheel.. but a word of caution.... it should be inspected carefully for any cracking, or severe warping and replaced if in question.
The friction disc is currently worn out, and your pressure plate can no longer provide enough clamping force to keep it sandwiched to the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged.
When you do replace your clutch, be SURE to remove the clutch slave delay valve!!
Then this wont happen again anytime soon.
I would recommend having your engine rear main seal replaced while your flywheel is removed as good measure, and also replace both transmission output shaft seals (one on each side of the transmission, where the cv axles enter.
As far as the clutch itself, I recommend a clutch kit, and try to go aftermarket NEW for good measure.
There are some great companies out there that make better than stock clutches, so they make a good investment for better long term performance.
(provided the clutch delay valve is out.. he he).
You can just go for a stock replacement, unless you want to add more mods to the car, ( for more hp) which a stronger than stock clutch will be of benefit.
You can go used OEM style for a clutch, but I don't think its worth the lower cost longterm.
They are reconditioned older parts with a history of known weaknesses.
I hope this helps.
Good luck!
 

#125 of 172 2007 Hyundai Tiburon - Bad Clutch by shadowh127

Feb 02, 2011 (3:19 pm)

I bought my Tiburon 14 months ago with 15000 miles on it. It now has 35300 miles. I've had it in to the dealership over a dozen times for various problems; on 3 occasions reported problems with the clutch. (but because they couldn't replicate the problem it got dismissed.) I've been noticing over the past few weeks its become harder to drive; doesn't accelerate like it should. Sooooo, I took it back to the dealership and was informed its the clutch! I was told it will cost me around $3000 because its the dual fly wheel. My first thought was, I bought the extended warranty, isn't this covered - NO! I started researching on the net and found an amazing number of people reporting the same problem. At the advisement of the Dealer service tech, I called the Hyundai consumer number. After explaining the problem (and also pointing out all the issues across the country with clutches from many of their Tiburon models and siting the civil case in the 2003 clutch) she called the dealership. I was told they can tear the car apart at no upfront cost and if they find a manufacture's defect then there will be no charge to replace it. But if they try to worm there way out of fixing it (by saying driver fault) then I pay $500 + to get it back together and/or fixed. I told the consumer rep that there should be a recall for this issue and she was "noting" it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!

#126 of 172 2003 Tiburon V6 6Speed Clutch by rksterling

Feb 05, 2011 (10:30 am)

We just changed the clutch out on a '03 Tiburon. Changed the Flywheel, Disc, Pressure plate & release bearing. Less than a 1000 miles later its doing the same thing. We tried adjusting the free play on the pedal and it fixed it for a little bit while testing.
 
It still doesnt release disc completely. When in gear and releasing the clutch it luggs engine properly with 1" - 1 1/2" of pedal release, but still doesnt allow to shift into gear.
 
My question is...... since the pressure plate is a pull type design, is there a possiblity that the release fork is pulling the release bearing off center causing the disc to not release evenly? Is there a way of adjusting the release fork?
 
Rick

#127 of 172 Re: 2003 Tiburon V6 6Speed Clutch [rksterling] by jemtec

Feb 06, 2011 (3:05 am)

Replying to: rksterling (Feb 05, 2011 10:30 am)
Yes.
The system is actually a push type system which uses the clutch master, to build pressure, to activate the clutch slave cylinder, which presses a rod against the fork, then the clutch fulcrums on a ball inside the bell housing, which in turn moves the Throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers, releasing the clutch.
The central problem with these cars begins with the clutch slave delay valve and spring.. (which needs to be removed).
The one thing I am concerned about it you could have a slightly bent input shaft, which causes the friction plate to jam slightly with either the flywheel face, or the clutch pressure plate itself.
It is a possibility, or it the throwout bearing fork and related hardware are bent, or damaged.
Alignment is crucial, and so is adequate tightening of parts.
There could be a burr on the flywheel surface where the bolts connect to the Engine crankshaft causing a slight "tilt".
The Pilot bearing could be misaligned.
The replacement parts are Reconditioned (rebuilt) and were done improperly.
The clutch and all its parts may not all be correct.
The disk might be ok, but the throwout bearing is wrong.. or the pressure plate is wrong for instance (and a couple different ways back and forth with all these parts).
If the engine LUGS that means there is a connection still occuring at the disk.. so there is definately a problem with the transmission being allowed to "free wheel".. which is what the clutches job is. (release).
Obviously, the clutch needs to be disassembled again..
I am not sure if you did the clutch, or someone else did.. but just go back through it, and be SURE all torque settings are correct, all parts are smooth and ALIGNED.. with a slight amount of grease put into the clutch disk splines, and the throwout bearing sliding surface.
Use High temp grease if possible.
Hope this helps.

#128 of 172 04 Tib by way2fam0us

Feb 11, 2011 (10:55 am)

With ya'll in the same boat.. I have an 04 Hyundai Tiburon GT and at 125k the clutch pedal wouldn't spring all the way back up when released and there were terrible grinding noises. Took it to the dealership and they said it's the clutch, bearings, and flywheel. $2300. Friggin' Korean car!!!!!

Messages Page 13 of 18

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