Last post on Aug 08, 2013 at 1:57 PM
You are in the Hyundai Tiburon
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Hyundai Tiburon, Coupe
#116 of 174 Re: Anybody having clutch problems with 2007 Tiburons? [lois17]
Jan 09, 2011 (8:33 am)
My brother just had his 2004 Tiburon (GT V6 6sp, 76K miles) into the dealer because the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. They insisted he needed a new clutch, dual-mass flywheel, cover & release bearing for $2300. Apparently after re-assembly, they still couldn't get the clutch to release, so they ended up replacing first the master & then the slave cylinders. It STILL would not release so they tore it down and discovered that the new replacement clutch cover was defective.
When we went to pickup the car, they said there was no charge for the master & slave cylinder in order to stick to the original $2300 estimate. We asked for the old parts back, and examined them before paying the bill. The clutch had very minimal wear (wear limit at the rivets is 1mm and there was at least 3mm), and on both the clutch cover and the flywheel you could still see 98% of the original machining marks on the contact surfaces.
At first the only problems I noticed were that the clutch cover surface showed minor signs of heat stress (blue discoloration) and the flywheel surface had quite bit of surface rust (very unusual because the clutch should fully disengage from both surfaces and clean off any rust upon re-engagement).
But then I noticed that the hub area of the dual-mass flywheel was cocked. According to the mechanic who worked on the car, this hub is supposed to allow some axial movement but no lateral movement, and needed to be replaced. The seal surrounding the hub was also distorted and not lying flat against the surface.
We went back to the service manager and insisted that the flywheel was defective and should be covered under warranty. After much discussion, during which we gave another look at the flywheel hub, we finally noticed that the hub ring edge was ragged and, in fact at some point had broken off and fallen out without damaging the clutch in the process! They agreed to cover the flywheel under warranty ($1100) even though they claimed that it was unlikely that Hyundai would grant it and the dealership would have to eat the cost.
I've never had a clutch need replacement before 150K miles of driving (or 10 years) and never had a flywheel break on me (after all, on most designs what is there to break besides the ring gear?). In my opinion there is a problem with both the design or q.c. of the dual-mass flywheel, and having a check valve in the slave cylinder that's causing all this premature clutch wear, especially with experienced standard transmission drivers. A class action suit should cover all models that use the dual-mass flywheel, from 2004 to end of Tiburon production.
Jan 09, 2011 (5:52 pm)
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#118 of 174 Clutch resolve
Jan 10, 2011 (2:45 am)
I agree with your post, and find the information very detailed.
If the metal itself is prone to rusting, I could see pressure plate forces, due to the altered angle of the pressure plate to disc against the flywheel effectively sticking, overheating and not disengaging the real deal.
However, this isn't happening in all cases from what I understand, but many of them.
It is important for anyone who is having this issue, have the clutch ASSESSED properly by a well trained mechanic.
Id consider getting the people who work on these car's to be involved in any potential legal action.
Of course, as the Host has stipulated, Edmunds cannot be held responsible for legal action created on this website.
There are other forums online that are generating these.
Still, the issue with the clutch slave delay valve and spring helps destroy the clutches in these cars in a rather short period of time.
The dual mass flywheel may be partly to blame, particularly if rust AND overheating, all caused by the silly delay valve work together.
An overheated clutch along with either salt water from de-ice,(very severe rust potential) or just rainwater entering the bell housing could promote rusting particularly if the clutch metals used have a high iron content.
That is why I am saying to consider the possiblity that something simple.. like the delay valve IS the main culprit.
Not only the clutch design.
#119 of 174 Re: Anybody having clutch problems with 2007 Tiburons? [janny225]
Aug 24, 2011 (12:27 pm)
I have a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon that has just hit 68,000 miles and I have now replaced the clutch three times! Hyundai won't replace a damn thing. They say it's my fault. I mean sure, I like to down shift when jumping on the highway, but who doesn't? I don't drive the car hard. Even IF I did, how the hell can you burn through 3 "good quality clutches" in such a short time? I would avoid these cars all together if possible, but if stuck with a payment, I would reccommend an aftermarket clutch and flywheel. The factory ones that Hyundai puts on your car will jusy for be shot again in no time. I bought an F1 stage one racing clutch kit of of e-bay for less than 120 bucks AFTER shipping. It's cheaper, it they actually work! Hyundai dealers are worthless *******, just like the parts that they manufacture. Really, that is the only major problem I have had with the car. Everything else has been great. I know some of my friends who drive 03s have issues with brakes. They also have more miles on their car than I do. Hyundai doesn't care about you! As soon as it's paid off, I'm trading it in for a Camaro.
#120 of 174 Re: Anybody having clutch problems with 2007 Tiburons? [bhoose]
Jan 20, 2011 (6:00 pm)
Remove the clutch slave cylinder spring and delay valve the factory installed as Original Equipment.
ANY time you use the clutch, it actually ruins it by making it sliip for an excessive period of time until it fully releases.
Depending on RPM, the destruction of clutch material on the disc results in other damage to the Pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing as the loads change rapidly due to wear.
The part is simple to remove, and will stop all the wear you are encountering.
Yep.. this is a stupid engineering idea for them to put a "delay" valve to improve clutch "feel" at the cost of major wear.
Do the mod, and your clutch will feel like a normal clutch, with perfect engagement.
I agree that Hyundai should have done a recall on this part and eliminated it from the car altogether.
I have over 60K on mine and never had a clutch fail.
But it would have otherwise with the delay valve.
Just remove the slave cylinder, unbolt the banjo fitting and remove the little spring and its part with the hole in it.
Put it all back together and refill and bleed your brake fluid.
Add a touch of grease on the tip that contacts the clutch fork.
#121 of 174 Re: the tiburon is a great car [01tib]
Jan 26, 2011 (3:55 pm)
i just had to sign up to tell u your wrong. The problem is with the bearing and pressure plate unfortunately the I O D of the pressure plate is to large causing a bind on the fork and cannot smoothly engage the pad and flywheel this is what causes the slip and the heat fractures "prematurely" and causes supposed failure however they can be machined for around 60 bucks.
Hyundai should stick to something a bit easier like maybe go carts if you want to buy a car by a honda and leave the loud mufflers and wheels for the Hyundai guys, those cars wont be around to much longer thank god.
#122 of 174 Not exactly..
Jan 27, 2011 (2:08 am)
The problem with the clutch to begin with IS indeed beginning with the clutch slave delay valve.
If there is an additional design flaw with the clutch fork and throwout alignment, that is the result of the overheating and warping in the first place caused by the intended, "slipping" Hyundai designed into the clutch system to improve clutch feel.
If the I O D is off, it will only make the problem worse.
It is not likely the general cause.
Anytime metal is fatigued with overheating, warping can cause all kinds of interference issues.
The INTENTIONAL design of slippage causes serious heat damage.
So.. no.. I am not wrong and you are not completely right.
You didnt consider the repercussions of just the act of overheating the clutch in general.
It is the cause of ALL clutch failure to the disc, at the pressure plate and the flywheel.
Your added info is interesting, but it is NOT the end failure result by itself.
It is only magnifying the problem by that stupid delay valve.
Yes, I believe Hyundai should rectify this regardless.
#123 of 174 slipping clutch
Jan 29, 2011 (6:10 pm)
I've got an 06 gt tiburon....I love the vehicle .... today my husband complained about the clutch slipping and a terrible smell when he downshifted to pass and went back up into 5th gear. I have just over 103,000 miles on this car and knock on wood this is the very first issue I've had with it. If we do the slave cylinder mod now will it help.... I haven't noticed any slipping and I'm the one who drives it everyday but in the last 2 years haven't done as many trips as I had been doing. This is the very first time I've had this problem and the clutch burning smell.
#124 of 174 Re: slipping clutch [63taz]
Jan 30, 2011 (2:03 am)
Well, it sounds like in your situation, the clutch is finally worn out.
If you were doing a great deal of Hwy driving, that is likely why your clutch has lasted as long as it has.
There is typically little shifting done when you do long road trips.
If you had removed the clutch slave delay valve early in the car's life, your clutch would be fine.
But, not alot of people know about this problem.
If you are careful, and don't continue to drive on the clutch with its current condition, you might be able to get away with only a resurface of your flywheel.. but a word of caution.... it should be inspected carefully for any cracking, or severe warping and replaced if in question.
The friction disc is currently worn out, and your pressure plate can no longer provide enough clamping force to keep it sandwiched to the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged.
When you do replace your clutch, be SURE to remove the clutch slave delay valve!!
Then this wont happen again anytime soon.
I would recommend having your engine rear main seal replaced while your flywheel is removed as good measure, and also replace both transmission output shaft seals (one on each side of the transmission, where the cv axles enter.
As far as the clutch itself, I recommend a clutch kit, and try to go aftermarket NEW for good measure.
There are some great companies out there that make better than stock clutches, so they make a good investment for better long term performance.
(provided the clutch delay valve is out.. he he).
You can just go for a stock replacement, unless you want to add more mods to the car, ( for more hp) which a stronger than stock clutch will be of benefit.
You can go used OEM style for a clutch, but I don't think its worth the lower cost longterm.
They are reconditioned older parts with a history of known weaknesses.
I hope this helps.
#125 of 174 2007 Hyundai Tiburon - Bad Clutch
Feb 02, 2011 (2:19 pm)
I bought my Tiburon 14 months ago with 15000 miles on it. It now has 35300 miles. I've had it in to the dealership over a dozen times for various problems; on 3 occasions reported problems with the clutch. (but because they couldn't replicate the problem it got dismissed.) I've been noticing over the past few weeks its become harder to drive; doesn't accelerate like it should. Sooooo, I took it back to the dealership and was informed its the clutch! I was told it will cost me around $3000 because its the dual fly wheel. My first thought was, I bought the extended warranty, isn't this covered - NO! I started researching on the net and found an amazing number of people reporting the same problem. At the advisement of the Dealer service tech, I called the Hyundai consumer number. After explaining the problem (and also pointing out all the issues across the country with clutches from many of their Tiburon models and siting the civil case in the 2003 clutch) she called the dealership. I was told they can tear the car apart at no upfront cost and if they find a manufacture's defect then there will be no charge to replace it. But if they try to worm there way out of fixing it (by saying driver fault) then I pay $500 + to get it back together and/or fixed. I told the consumer rep that there should be a recall for this issue and she was "noting" it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!