Last post on Nov 09, 2013 at 5:09 AM
You are in the Toyota Camry
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Toyota Camry, Sedan
#5501 of 5646 Re: Fuel -air sensor code 2195 [chuck28]
Dec 05, 2011 (11:02 pm)
I was thinking about that option myself. Of course you can buy the original sensor. The one Rock Auto came up with should be just fine. I just wonder whether the defect they speak of will mean that it will fail at a low mileage.
Another option would be to buy a pair of used exhaust manifolds and air fuel ratio sensors from a wrecking yard, taken from a 2008 or newer Camry with the 3.5 V-6. The part number for the AFR sensor changed in 2008, and the same one is used all the way up to the present day. I expect these manifolds are also the same as the upgrade they want to sell you. You might be able to get these parts surprisingly cheap. There are several wreckers who specialize in only Toyotas. Here's one of the most well reputed. They will ship parts anywhere in the US.
To avoid surprises; you'd need to confirm that the catalytic converter style used with these manifolds is the same as the ones on your car (the later models use individual converters in unit with manifold). Rock Auto sells new integrated manifold/converters for the later Camrys for $400 each (2 required).
#5502 of 5646 Re: Fuel -air sensor code 2195 [zaken1]
Dec 06, 2011 (3:30 am)
Thanks for the info. The used manifolds are an option. I think for time and money I will probabally choose the original sensor and hope I get another 50,000 miles out of it. I think this sensor has been a problem in the performance of my car even before the check enging light came on. Maybe heat related form the manifold. Toyota should issue a recall for the design of the manifold though I'm not holding my breath on that one.
I just need to get under my car to identify the correct sensor. Need to find the time to do that. The diagram you sent is very helpful. I was also wondering if there is a diagram of the sensor locations.
#5503 of 5646 Re: Fuel -air sensor code 2195 [chuck28]
Dec 06, 2011 (12:04 pm)
I haven't seen a specific diagram of the sensor locations; but it sounds like there are up to four sensors on this model. One of them is upstream of the front catalytic converter; while the other two are downstream of the rear converter and resonator, screwed into the top of each of the separate pipes that feed the rear mufflers. In vehicles which have the manifold and converter combined into one unit, there is probably a front sensor screwed into each of the exhaust manifolds (so you would need to replace TWO sensors; unless the code identified which of them are bad). These sensors can probably be accessed from above the engine. Here's a photo of the original air/fuel ratio sensor on the 2007 motor: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1606680) And here's a photo of the left side manifold/converter unit on the later model engines: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2425722). There are also two additional converters in the exhaust pipe downstream of where the exhaust manifolds connect to that pipe. Here's a diagram of the complete exhaust system: (http://info.rockauto.com/Walker/Detail.html?91511-0480.jpg) The pipe with the additional converters in it is the one numbered "50451."
#5504 of 5646 Re: Fuel -air sensor code 2195 [zaken1]
Dec 06, 2011 (6:29 pm)
Hi Zaken, thanks for the info and diagrams. It looks like in the exhaust diagram the two manifolds #31332 would each have a sensor. I think Bank 1 sensor 1 would be the one closes to the fire wall which you can see from under the car. You can also see another one from under the car which is closer to the radiator. I am going to see if I can get into a dealership and ask them to point it out to me. Hopefully I can find a tech that would be nice enough to show me where the Bank 1 sensor 1 is for sure.
Appreciate all your help and feel free to send anymore info on this.
#5505 of 5646 Re: Fuel -air sensor code 2195 [chuck28]
Dec 06, 2011 (9:01 pm)
Interestingly enough; in the exhaust diagram, #31332 is a flange gasket; used between the converter outlets and headpipes. The same part is shown at the rear of the car between the pipes and mufflers. I also initially thought it was the number of the manifold; until I looked more closely. But you are absolutely correct that the two manifolds (which are pictured right next to the #31332) each have a sensor. Since bank 1 has got to be the cylinder bank next to the firewall, and sensor 1 is the only sensor in bank 1; there is no possibility for confusion there. The other bank, next to the radiator, is called bank 2. I expect the sensor in that bank is called sensor 2. I would suggest that you have enough information at this point to justify confidence in this conclusion; and not waste time and possibly money by bothering the dealership techs.
#5506 of 5646 Re: Fuel -air sensor code 2195 [zaken1]
Dec 07, 2011 (4:32 am)
Thanks Zaken, good catch on the part #'s. I see that now. This has been helpful.
I'll keep you updated. Probabally won't get it changed before the weekend. Thanks again
#5507 of 5646 Re: Fuel -air sensor code 2195 [zaken1]
Dec 07, 2011 (8:43 pm)
Hi Zaken, wanted to let you know I ordereda sensor today from Rock Auto. Hope to get this weekend. I went to Toyota tonight for an oil change and I ask if I can get under the car after they lifted it up. There was a young Tec who was very helpful and pointed out all the sensors to me. I was surprised he let me hang out under the car for quite awhile as we discussed my car. This sensor is probabally the toughest one to get at. The plug in connection is the biggest challenge as the wire runs up the fire wall somewhere and hard to see where it ends. The Tec has done many of these but thought he remebered taking apart the throttle- air-filter chamber to get his hand in from the top to reach the connector.
The sensor has to be done from underneath.
I'm going to have ny original mechanic do it for $30 though I don't know if he will stick with that quote when he see's where it is at.
I'm sure he has the tools.
Today leacing work with the car still cold the car seemed to go into a neturel mode for a couple of seconds. It seemed like the trans was acting up. I have had issues with this trans but this was a severe slip as i was hitting the gas pedal and it was like dead air.
I'm wondering if it's all related to the sensor code?
I'll keep you informed, thank again, chuck
PS I know you mentioned that to reset a code it can't be done by disconnecting the battery on cars 1996 and newer. I have heard other say that too. The dealership toinght seeems to think you can. Not sure what to think.
#5508 of 5646 2007 Camry V-6 Bank 1 sensor 1
Dec 10, 2011 (11:38 am)
Has anyone had to change this fuel-ratio sensor and if so did you find a easy way to reach the connector that is along the fire wall. Can't see it though. I was told I may have to remove some of the air filter assembly and throttle body assembly to make space to reach the connector. The sensor has to be reached from under the car.
Any suggestions would be great, chuck
#5509 of 5646 Re: 2007 Camry V-6 Bank 1 sensor 1 [chuck28]
Dec 10, 2011 (12:05 pm)
It looks like; if you decide to do this yourself; you'll receive an initiation into the fraternity of those who have gained ultimate confidence that anything which has been put together by man or machine, can also be disassembled and worked on. The Camry V-6 is one of the most challenging vehicles I have ever worked on. Changing the spark plugs on the rear cylinder bank is a classic example of why so many home mechanics have thrown their hands up in disgust and paid a professional to do it. But the main difference why the professionals can routinely do such formidable tasks is that they have specialized tools (like ratchets with pivoting handles, wobble extensions. extensions of many different lengths, stubby handle ratchets, inspection mirrors, bright flashlights; and most of all, the confidence that methodical work, along with keeping notes of the order in which parts were removed, and drawing diagrams of how things are placed, will inevitably lead to success. They are also motivated to put their best efforts into a job because they get PAID for it. Home mechanics can always fall back on the: "Aw, it's just not worth all that work" excuse. The first time you do a job; there is bound to be wasted time and effort. But it still will be possible to reach the same result as the professionals by just carefully analyzing what needs to be removed in order to access a particular area; and taking the parts off one by one, while remaining aware of how they all go together. We professionals also go through the same process when doing a job for the first time.
#5510 of 5646 Re: 2007 Camry V-6 Bank 1 sensor 1 [zaken1]
Dec 10, 2011 (1:05 pm)
Thanks Zaken, for the words of wisdom and confidence. As there is part of me would like to attempt the job I don't think I'm set up with the right tools and no lift to get under the car. It's winter here in Illinois so I think I will have a mechanic do it. Two Mechanics I know were to busy to do it this weekend so I have to wait.
I feel I need to point out the location of the sensor to these mechanic because like you said they are challenging to locate and get to.
One thing that is bothering me is that the new sensor I got from Rock Auto Denso 234-9050 has a wire of appox 12 inches. When I was under the car the other day with a Toyota Tec I seem to think a longer wire would be needed though I could be wrong on this seeing I never saw the connector.
I'm trying to find out info to confirm the length of the wire for the Bank 1 sensor 1 on the v-6 2007 Camry.
Thanks again for your words of wisdom. You are right on! chuck