Last post on Nov 09, 2013 at 5:09 AM
You are in the Toyota Camry
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Toyota Camry, Sedan
#5295 of 5646 Re: 2007 Camry LE Transmission breakdown [chuck28]
Jan 27, 2011 (11:15 am)
My car is a 4 cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable issue before the transmission went out. Coincidently, the trans problem started right after I brought it into the dealer for tire replacements & allignment (??). The mechanic (not from Toyota) says he has seen a few of these newer model Camry's (07+) with the same problem, and it's due to the newer model trans used in these cars.
Toyota has always pride itself on quality. Assumably, a Toyota trans should last over 5 years & 100K miles, at least. Apparently this problem is not isolated to only myself. My question is why would Toyota sell a faulty product? Unfortunately, I put in too many miles on the car in the first few yrs due to job distance, otherwise I would still be covered within the 5 yrs warranty.
#5296 of 5646 Re: 2007 Camry LE Transmission breakdown [carownermn]
Jan 27, 2011 (12:04 pm)
I agree wholeheartedly about Toyota wanting to maintain their "relatively" spotless quality reputation and in a case like this, I'd go after the regional office, if not national, and appeal it on a "special case" basis.
Forget about going through the dealer; most of them are money hungry b**tards.
#5297 of 5646 Re: abs and brake light [msanchez103]
Jan 27, 2011 (5:36 pm)
Did that fix the problem?
#5298 of 5646 Re: Stuck in Park [zaken1]
Jan 27, 2011 (7:10 pm)
Compression ignition, A/F mixture detonation, pre-ignition, due to the heat of compression, can often be overcome via enriching the mixture slightly thereby COOLING the cylinder "fill" prior to the piston upstroke.
But. If the A/F mixture is "igniting" BEFORE the ignition spark how/why would RETARDING, delaying the ignition, be of any help.
Methinks you are referring to knock/ping due to a too early ignition spark which can be the case but these days rarely is.
#5299 of 5646 Re: Stuck in Park [wwest]
Feb 02, 2011 (11:04 am)
This morning I warmed up my car ( 2007 Camry V-6) outside in the driveway after the big snow storm in Chicago. When I moved it forward up the driveway to clear off the rest of the driveway I noticed a line of colored spots in the snow from where I was parked. The spots were from the back of the car to the front which appears to be lined up with the exhaust. The spots were light green in color. Could condensation from the exhaust cause this color? Or do I have other leaks?
I believe Toyota uses a pink antifreeze?
Thanks for any help, chuck
#5300 of 5646 could this be the cause of green spots
Feb 02, 2011 (1:20 pm)
Ahhhhhh, just for those interested, I figured out what was wrong with my Outlander (nothing). As my dealership supposedly found and fixed that my transfercase was leaking, which I had doubts about it as transmission fluid is NOT neon green/yellow color. When the snow melted there were no drips found under my Outlander, then another big snow storm hit and the little yellow/green neon drips continued. So I went under the car and I didn't notice any leakage, then I googled it and apparently in my area they started using new salt mixed with sugar solutions to melt away the snow :s Apparently when the heat from the exaust (which is located in the middle) that has little snow residue (mixed with salt/sugar) left over gets on clean snow it will leave little neon/green spots (dripping water mixed with salt/sugar).And this would make sense because as I mentioned earlier, when there is no snow on the ground, I don't see any leakage on the pavement and all the fluid levels seem to be normal. This thing has been driving me nuts for the past few weeks but seems I finally figured it out.
#5301 of 5646 Re: could this be the cause of green spots [chuck28]
Feb 02, 2011 (1:50 pm)
Good. Thanks for sharing that info.
#5302 of 5646 Re: abs and brake light [msanchez103]
Feb 02, 2011 (3:54 pm)
Ok well I went and got this checked out by a 4th mechanic (second that is a toyota dealership) They are saying that the reason my abs, brake light and check engine light are coming on is because one of my tires is taller then the others. Does this seem to make sense? Originally they were all the same exact size, but now they are saying one is an inch smaller?
#5303 of 5646 Re: Stuck in Park [wwest]
Feb 02, 2011 (7:29 pm)
There is an additional cause of pinging besides incorrect timing or self ignition, which you may not be aware of. It happens when an engine is properly timed for most efficient combustion; but the owner chooses to use a fuel with lower octane than the engine requires for best performance and economy. Igniting low octane fuel with a stock timed spark produces a faster spreading flame front during combustion than does higher octane fuel. Because this flame front moves more rapidly than it was intended to; the pressure wave strikes the piston BERFORE it reaches the top of the compression stroke. And that causes pinging. This is the most common cause of pinging in modern, high efficiency engines. Since the vehicle's mixture trimming controls can legally add only minor amounts of mixture enrichment (less than 10%); if this was done, it would make the pinging WORSE, because a rich mixture burns FASTER than a lean mixture. This would make the flame front strike the piston even earlier!! The only instances where enriching the mixture will cool the cylinder down is when massive amounts of extra fuel are added (20% or more). This is a drastic type of change, which is not usable in passenger cars, because it causes the carbon monoxide emissions to increase beyond legal limits. However; this technique is used in race cars and top fuel dragsters; where emissions are not an issue. This is why spark retard, and not mixture enrichment, is the standard method of pinging control used in modern production cars.
It is also not well understood by most people that compression ignition, self ignition and detonation do not normally take place in a motor on which the mixture strength and ignition timing is properly adjusted. Self ignition is typically caused by prolonged running with either excessively lean air/fuel mixtures, or excessively advanced ignition timing. That's when the spark plug electrodes or carbon deposits heat to the point where they glow; which can ignite fuel without a spark. But since modern engines are equipped with automatic mixture strength regulation and automatic ignition timing optimization; the conditions which create detonation cannot and do not normally occur. Variations in fuel octane are compensated for with the detonation sensor controlling the amount of spark advance. Variations in mixture strength are compensated for with the fuel injection feedback loop control; which is driven by the signal from the exhaust oxygen sensor. These two systems keep the mixture strength and timing set optimally under the full range of possible operating conditions. That is why detonation is no longer an issue in modern engines; and variations in fuel octane can now be easily tolerated. So pinging after the spark takes place is the only abnormal combustion factor which still requires compensation. And that is now regulated nicely by the knock sensor controlling the amount of spark advance.
#5304 of 5646 Re: Stuck in Park [zaken1]
Feb 03, 2011 (9:12 am)
Every thing you say is PERFECTLY true.
Just as long as the engine is under a fairly light load, simply cruising along at a relatively constant speed wherein the "standard 14.7:1 mixture ratio is used. Obviously engine knock/ping under those conditions, LOW cylinder "fill", would be somewhat unusual.
But open the throttle just a bit for acceleration and since the A/F mixture must be enriched to as high as 12:1 the engine control system switches from the use of the upstream oxygen sensor to the MAF/IAT sensors for controlling the mixture.
It is in this "mode", high engine load/loading, that knock/ping is most likely to occur and the A/F mixture can be more freely modified to satisfy varying engine operating parameters.
Whereas there can be NO A/F mixture variation under control of the upstream oxygen other than what is REQUIRED to keep the exhaust oxygen content to ZERO.