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Sedans Toyota Camry 2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs
4944 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 6:46 PM
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Replying to: djm2 (Aug 29, 2009 5:42 am) This has worked quite well for my two current Camrys, one a 2005 XLE with just over 40,000 miles, the other a 2004 LE with nearly 64,000 miles. The '05 has not had any problems of any kind, just routine oil changes, tire rotations, filter and wiper blade replacements, plus two replacement tires. I have paid zero for service, only a small amount for parts -- see below about the tires. The 2004 had one recall for possible mis-installed side curtains (mine turned out to be fine) and one other minor problem which I haven't bothered to fix -- a minor "stiction" in the steering when making sharp left hand turns under about 25 mph. Unfortunately, the car was sideswiped by a hit-and-run driver while it was parked, requiring a replacement quarter panel, rear bumper cover, and related repairs (plus much repainting) in early 2006. Then a year ago in June it was pummeled by a rare hailstorm (for our area), requiring paintless dent removal plus a replacement trunk lid (and more painting). The paint work wasn't satisfactory, so my insurance company paid for much more extensive paint work to get the car in its now very presentable state. The dealer's platinum warranty wouldn't have helped in either case, so I did have to pay the insurance deductible in each incident (but not for the do-over). This car has had professional maintenance for a few small items like brake fluid replacement. I'm lucky in that I have access to a tire mounting machine at my workplace, and I made sure to learn how to use it. We also have a balancing machine, so I only have to pay for tires -- on my 3rd set on the 2004, only 2 new tires so far on the 2005. My former ‘97 Camry was part of the “sludger” series. I never had a lick of sludge, but my valve stem seals started to fail at 57K miles (evidenced by a puff of blue smoke on cold startup), just before the 60K powertrain warranty was about to expire. I took my log of oil change records to the local dealer (not the original selling dealer), and they took care of the problem without a hassle. It would have cost $800-$1,000. This dealer has many "packages" that pad the service intervals with all kinds of added work and magic chemicals not recommended by Toyota. Plus it has a “Tires for Life” program for cars bought new there, as my 2 current Camrys were. Problem is you have to pay for all maintenance at the dealer AND follow the dealer’s recommendations for tire rotations, balancing, and alignment, which of course are way beyond what the manufacturer calls for. You end up paying for the “free” tires many times over. No thanks! |
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Replying to: wwest (Aug 29, 2009 9:12 am) As far as the transaxles go, I have no problems whatsoever with the 4-cylinder, 4-speed auto in my 2004. What I don't like in the 2005 with its 4-cylinder, 5-speed combo is its tendency to shift too soon into too high a gear (lugging) in city driving, which is especially apparent when going up hills. |
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Replying to: wwest (Aug 29, 2009 9:12 am) I was simply suggesting that some drivers, (who have an older vehicle without DBW), might see / experience an "operating difference" with this new technology. My Camry handles differently in the snow because of DBW than did my 2003 Honda Accord! Best regards! Dwayne  
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Replying to: djm2 (Aug 31, 2009 2:46 am) I would imagine the fuel cut using EFI/SFI had to be pretty much total in order to avoid detonation whereas with DBW dethrottling can be moderated, modulated. So yes, likely a very noticeable VSC/TC difference when moving from one to the other. |
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My wifes 2005 Camry needs front brake pads soon. Ive changed them myself on other cars. Would this cars pads be similiar to do? Do the calipers come off the same way? (two 14mm bolts?) Can you still push the pistons back into the calipers with a large C clamp? Thanks for any replys!
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Sep 02, 2009 5:43 pm) And don't buy the pads from your Toyota dealer......aftermarket is fine. Good luck (not that you'll need it!) Mike |
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Replying to: wwest (Feb 09, 2008 9:31 am) Lindi
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Replying to: lindi1 (Sep 10, 2009 9:03 am) One of our cars had a propensity for accumulating water in the exact areas you describe, behind each of the front seats. I decided to replace the sunroof seals to try and solve the problem. In the process just last week I vacuumed that area, sunroof retraction area, of a lot of debris and used weed-eater line to clear the four drains, one of the drains was quite thoroughly blocked.
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I bought a used I4 automatic the beginning of July and so far am only getting about 17-18 mpg with 100% city driving. This seems pretty low to me. Air filter is recently replaced, tire pressure is checked and normal. I am at a loss to explain the low mpg since I drive fairly carefully (avoid sudden accelerations, etc.) Anyone have any idea why it might be low like this? I searched the forum and saw a couple users mentioned "TSB for engine and transmission performance", is that something I should look into? Actually, one other thing I noticed, it seems like there is like a very slight engine braking when going 30+ mph in drive. It's barely perceptible -- I asked someone riding in the car with me if they noticed it and they did not (maybe I am just imagining things  )
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Replying to: dlrev (Sep 10, 2009 9:32 pm) I can get only 17 mpg in the city, or even less (0 mpg at traffic lights), but I can also get 31 highway. My mpg is fine, but my point is you need to try a long trip on a level highway at a constant speed (no more than 70) and I bet your MPG is fine.
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