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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

4944 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 6:46 PM
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Replying to: 4ruth (Dec 08, 2008 7:12 pm) Secondly I would also check tire pressure inflation, I run 2 lbs over the typical pressure....make sure you are on the high side of pressure as opposed to the low side. Hard to imagine that you would have a dragging parking brake, they normally get looser over time as opposed to tighter, but I guess if someone mis-adjusted it that might add some drag. I'd be switching fuel stations, to see if that had any effect. I run the cheapest available regular, but have two regular stations I typically hit which I've never had a problem with their fuel in 15 years. |
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Replying to: atb2 (Dec 10, 2008 6:48 pm) Personally, my 04 Camry 4-cyl 4A ranges from 23 mpg in town to 38 mpg on the highway (speed no more than 65 mph). My '05 Camry 4-cyl 5A ranges from 20 mpg to about 35 mpg, in other words, 3 mpg less.
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Replying to: 210delray (Dec 11, 2008 8:11 pm) Point taken. Sorry about the errant reply. |
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Replying to: 4ruth (Dec 08, 2008 7:12 pm) I have written the owner of the place I bought it and told him how the salesman looked me in the eye and lied about the mileage and about where the car had come from (he told me he was getting it that afternoon from the first owner who had bought "up" to a larger fancier car and was bringing it in for a trade in. I asked for the car fax but did not actually get it before I had signed most of the papers. Then I saw that it had come from an auction...and was given a song and dance about how that was simply how it had been transported to Portland. I can't believe how damned naive I was. Crying into the snow in Portland, Or.
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Replying to: 4ruth (Dec 22, 2008 2:49 pm) |
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Replying to: 4ruth (Dec 22, 2008 2:49 pm) |
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Hello, We have a 2007 4 cylinder Camry with 12,000 miles on it that completely stopped working while I was driving it tonight. We previously had a transmission problem fixed once and it started hesitating again recently. Today there was a "!" on the dash that indicated low pressure in one or more tires. When driving to the station to add air, after approximately 4 minutes when stopping, the brakes make a scraping sound and the "ABS" light came on, along with battery light and check engine light on the dashboard. I pulled off in a safe location as soon as I could and turned the engine off, thinking maybe something would reset. It would not start up until I let the car sit for awhile. After I finally got the car started again and w/i minutes while I was driving, I lost acceleration, the headlights went out, the dash lights blinked and went out, so I put the car in neutral and coasted to a safe location and called a tow truck. The flashers wouldn't work either. One other time in July, we were driving on the freeway at night and our car lost power, but after we pulled over and stopped, it started right back up and drove w/o any problems until tonight. At that time, no warning lights went on and the dash & headlights stayed on. Does anybody out there have any ideas what is happening? After many years of wanting, I finally got my new car and it broke down before my husband's 1984 Celica that has well over 200,000 miles on it! :^( I would appreciate any ideas or comments please! Mo
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Replying to: modivo (Jan 07, 2009 10:36 pm) Secondly, for your other problem I would look first at a basic electrical failure in the battery (perhaps a bad cell), the cabling (loose connectors/connections, or corroded connectors), a defective alternator, main power fuse, or ignition switch/relay. There are other possibilities, but that is where I'd be looking first. A competent dealership should be able to find and resolve these issues for you.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jan 08, 2009 8:54 am) But since you didn't get an ABS failure until later brake application then possibly not. In which case even very light brake pedal pressure would result in ABS activation. If you have VSC or/and TC those features may have contributed to the ABS pumpmotor being used, with a low tire, especially a front tire on a FWD vehicle. And that sucker, ABS pumpmotor, draws a LOT of electrical current. If we assume the battery terminals hadn't been cleaned and burnished for quite some time that could have very well been the causative factor, HIGH current load, the battery MUST supply a substantial level of that current, and the corroded battery terminals cannot handle that load level. Bottom line... You are about to be sold a new battery, or worse (more $$$) when cleaning the battery terminals would in all probability suffice. |
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