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Ford Ranger Engine questions

204 messages, Last post on Sep 12, 2008 at 8:18 PM
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Replying to: baileykar (Feb 24, 2007 3:20 pm) I do remember the Fram I bought for this truck, the new PCV valve was somewhat different from the Ford one. I had to cut the hose to make it fit and plug one opening on the new filter. Something like this. After double checking with the parts house, it was the correct one, they just made one for several applications - a somewhat 'universal' one. Actually PCV valves seldom need replaced on a regular maintained vehicle that is not burning a lot of oil. You could take the old one off, spray with carb clean, shake out the carb cleaner and put it back on. If it 'rattles' when shaken, it's probably still in fine condition. It's just a one-way valve that opens under pressure, allowing oil-ladden oil from inside the crankcase (via valve cover) to be pushed into the air intake stream and be burned in the cylinders. In old, old days before about 1965 or so, this oil was just vented to the atmosphere. The PCV valve and hose was the very first air pollution device put on autos. |
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Replying to: jaime78 (Feb 25, 2007 3:32 pm) Take the truck to an independent mechanic/garage. Ask around, try to find one that other people have used and are happy with. Take the truck in there and ask what a head gasket job will cost you. Might be around $400-$800, but this is just a wild, wild guess. If you repair this, with your prior transmission repair, you might then have a reliable little truck that will give you another 150,000 miles. By using wild guesses about the options (none, base truck) you are about 'even' at owning $8,200 on a 2004 truck (with no problems). With a bad head gasket, it isn't worth that much. Remember, no matter how a dealer writes the numbers up on a different truck, you ARE going to pay this $8,200. You will just be buried even further in the next truck. Overall - good luck to you on whatever you decide to do.
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1994 Ranger with 4.0 V-6 Cold starts are no problem, but when truck is warmed up,then shut off for 10 or 15 min. it starts fine but idles rough. It will clear up with revving. Feels like vapor lock. My Mechanic thought it may be a stuck injector, but checked them and says they are fine. It has new wires-plugs. Cleaned fuel injectors, new pcv valve, new fuel filter. Mechanic put it on CPU, found no fault codes. Any ideas on this one?
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Replying to: pemnut (Feb 26, 2007 7:40 am) |
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Replying to: bolivar (Feb 25, 2007 3:59 pm) |
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need to replace it I have gotten so many replies for used engines the problem is getting the right engine it says cal emissions w/o EGR is this the same as low emissons w/o EGR? thank you |
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i have a 2000 ranger 2.5L engine that i am looking to do some performace upgrades to mostly just to get better gass mileage, is there any place to get a header for it because i cant find any place that has one for this engine
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Replying to: noballz (Mar 23, 2007 6:22 am) You already have the 4 cylinder, that's about as good as it's going to get. |
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Replying to: chucktkd (Jun 20, 2006 12:11 pm) Was your problem the throttle position sensor? A friend has a similar problem with a 1999 Ranger. Except it ALWAYS chokes out. He cannot get the engine over 1500 rpms. One interesting symptom is when the throttle is released it will rev for a moment before returning to idle. |
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I have a '98 2.3L stick. When it idles, the AC compressor clicks on and off every 2-3 seconds. When it clicks on, the RPMs dip down so much I'm a little afraid its gonna die. It stops doing it when I rev the engine above about 2000 RPMs or when I turn the vent dial on the climate control to OFF. Also, the A/C doesn't get nearly as cold as it used to. I checked the refrigerant level and it's got plenty. Am I gonna need a whole new compressor? Please tell me this is an easy fix.
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